What must be done to delete the AC?
#1
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What must be done to delete the AC?
I have a 86ta & I would like to disconnect the AC unit. How do I go about doing this? The R12 has leaked out & the Plastic housing that goes around the fan is all managled up too much money to fix.
thanx
njdaewoo
thanx
njdaewoo
#2
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Well if the pipes have no more pressure (which I think is likely, since all the R12 leaked out)
- Remove compressor (obvious)
- remove condensor (in front of radiator)
- remove accumulator (silver can)
- remove a/c lines (obvious)
- wire a jumper into the sensor from the hard line on the passenger side main frame rail; otherwise, your electric fan will run forever
And if you get ambitious...
- remove evaporator
- remove heater/evaporator box against firewall
- replace with non-ac heater box
- Remove compressor (obvious)
- remove condensor (in front of radiator)
- remove accumulator (silver can)
- remove a/c lines (obvious)
- wire a jumper into the sensor from the hard line on the passenger side main frame rail; otherwise, your electric fan will run forever
And if you get ambitious...
- remove evaporator
- remove heater/evaporator box against firewall
- replace with non-ac heater box
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Woah- really? Why? What if you remove a/c, and put one of those generic off-the-shelf chips in... do they have an a/c option? Just curious as to the difference.
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Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
When I removed my AC, I removed the evap core & fabricated a new air box for the firewall from sheet metal. The non AC airboxes are very hard to comeby. The PROM does not need to be changed, however the RH cooling fan will not operate without the AC. You can over come this by running a ground wire through a toggle switch from the temp switch on the RH cylinder head & turn it on manually.
Last edited by Ricktpi; 05-24-2002 at 01:32 PM.
#6
If his 86 is like my 86 (former LB9)... we only have one fan. I did not change my prom, and in fact, since I installed the 355, am running an 88 L98 chip without any problems what so ever.
Now, if you drive the car in the winter, maybe having the fan on all the time wouldn't be good, but if you are like me (Summer only) it's a horrible thing to have an engine stay at 155-160 degrees and make a greater tire shredding lose of traction coefficient against the payment.
Now, if you drive the car in the winter, maybe having the fan on all the time wouldn't be good, but if you are like me (Summer only) it's a horrible thing to have an engine stay at 155-160 degrees and make a greater tire shredding lose of traction coefficient against the payment.
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Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Originally posted by TomP
- wire a jumper into the sensor from the hard line on the passenger side main frame rail; otherwise, your electric fan will run forever
- wire a jumper into the sensor from the hard line on the passenger side main frame rail; otherwise, your electric fan will run forever
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#8
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AC delete
My 85 z28 does not have electric fans and I just removed the lines, evaporator, condenser, everything! The heater core was shot when I bought the car and I have removed the blower as well. Do I need to do anything else? I was just going to fab a cover for the firewall. This is not a daily driver just a project car. Any problems with above?
#9
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No you can just either fab up a thing to cover the fire wall or I see people all the timing using bondo. Covering the whole with a type of screen then bondoing it. Its real simple and if u take your time you can make it look like it was never there. On my car its a 89 I had to go with a AC delete pulley, but I also did use a AC delete heater box too...
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