Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Its the end-link bolt on the rear sway bar. Its currently attached to a formula at the salvage yard. I have coated it with PB catalyst and it won't budge. I had an open wrench on top (braced against the body) as I used a hex wrench underneathe. Its on there so good that one arm of the open wrench snapped off as I pried with the hex!!
Mind you its in the yard, so I'm thinking either:
a) use a hack saw to cut thru the bolt and nut or,
b) get a butane can and heat the little sucker for a while and then try to get it loose.
What do you think is the easiest, surest way to get it done??
-Matt
__________________ Suspension Eiback prokit springs, boxed-in stock LCA's with poly bushings, Lakewood panhard rod, boxed panhard bar brace, WS6 36mm front sway bar and 32mm rear sway bar, Koni reds, BMR tubular non-adj torque arm. ChassisCustom b-pillar brace, custom front subframe reinforcement, custom STB, MAC sfc's, Wonderbar. Interior 4th gen leather seats, in-dash fan control switch. Engine Reman/ rebuilt 350, Moroso 8mm spiral core wires, homemade CAI, Edelbrock aluminum H2O pump, K&N air filters. Exhaust hi-flo cat, Flowmaster cat back exhaust, custom exhaust tips, Drivetrain rebuilt 3.23 rear with gov-loc posi, HD transmission servo. Brakes LS1 front brakes.
Jesus built my hotrod: "Where you are doesn't matter unless you can get away from it."
Problem is, those end links are a steel bolt going through a steel sleeve. They rust together. So don't think you can undo the nut and just separate the end link into it's many pieces. I'd take the hacksaw to it, right in the center of the end link sleeve. Make sure you take a new blade with you!
__________________ -Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
__________________ "I live my life a quarter mile at a time, for those 10 seconds or less...Im free"
*LUCY* 1989 Bright Red 2 tone accent paint (silver) WS6 Formula. 305 TPI, T-tops. Fresh Paint, moldings and decals, New interior (dash, carpet, center console, shifter, headliner, sail panels, sun visors, ect) Flowmaster cat-back exhaust, Rebuilt Trans. B&M stage 1 shift kit, 2500 Stall converter, Custom cold air induction, K&N filter, 160' T-stat, SLP throttle body air foil, HotchkisSTB, SLP LCA's, Taylor 8mm wires, Spohn poly bushings & endlinks, BBK AFPR, Polished intake plenum and runners. Sound system: Alpine CD Receiver, Eclipse 4x6s, Pioneer 3-way 6x9s, Pioneer PPTA dome tweeters, (2) Pioneer 10" Subwoofers in a Custom sealed MDF enclosure built by me, Pioneer 2CH 750watt amp, Kenwood 4CH 250 watt amp.
What I do in these cases, is use a cordless drill at full charge of course, with about a 1/8 drill bit and drill right through the nut and the threaded bolt. Spray it again with some lube and let is sit for a bit. Give it a good wack or two with a good size hammer, and off it should come.This should give the nut enough budging ground for you to remove it. Just my .02
To get off sway bar links I have a can of WD-40, a few hammers, some channel locks, some vice grips, a few chisels and an unyielding and relentless hammer attack from various angles till the bolt and sleeve are 2 pieces again...
I've got it down to an art where it takes me b/w 20-30 mins to remove it and replace it.
My car is also a winter beater too so you can imagine just how fused the two parts are...
I'm telling you.....its no fun. Its been raining past two days so I prob will get out there tomorrow and whittle that sucker down. Sawzall.....good tip
i'm on a torch all day pretty much. I use about 1 oxygen tank in 3 days myself. At the garage I work at, if you told anyone you would hack a steel bolt, they would laugh at you. I guess cause i'm use to n seen it, the easiest I think would be to heat the sucker up and then break it, we all know that steel expands as its heated. We always heat up the lug bolts on the tires if the air wrench isn't strong enough, after heated she comes right off.
I would get it glowing or just burn it off, quick and easy I think. lol
