Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Found an Aluminum Engine Block and was wondering if anyone used it or knows if it is good for a Performance build up? I know the LS1 engines are alum. blocks, but they also use a Iron Sleeve to prevent warping, or at least that's what i have always figured it to be for. I would love to save more weight using an Alum Block over a Cast Iron block. Says it only weighs 90#, how much is a Bare Cast Iron Block? Im always looking for parts that will help and if i can save some weight then it's a big plus. Here's all the info i got on it. Share any info you guys might know or what not please:
That aluminum block is $4077.50. They show the iron bowtie block for $1,339.03. You could probably find a used production block for $50. How much is the weight savings worth to you?
well...aluminum costs the same to build up, its just that you usually have to shell a whole lot of cash out for the block. a normal iron small block weighs about 220 lbs. The only thing you have to be concerned about with aluminum is it isnt as strong as iron. Not meaning that it couldnt hold any power, but be carefull in handling it, dont drop it, careful if you have to bang on it, etc...
The reason aluminum blocks use iron sleeves is because aluminum isnt a good wear surface.
But i dont see a whole lot of point to an aluminum block in a street car, besides bragging rights. Theres quite a few things you can get rid of under the hood to save 110 lbs.
A bare, finish-bored, cast iron SBC weighs in at 186 pounds with 4-bolt caps. This is after the core flash is cleaned up, core plugs installed.
As indicated, silicon aluminum castings can be used on the street as long as cooling is strictly maintained. Cast iron is much more forgiving, and its durability is beyond question. If you don't want the question marks associated with aluminum cases, there are other ways to shave 90-100 pounds from your vehicle to affect a similar change. Redistribution of weight is one means. Moving the battery and EVAP canister to the rear can take 70# off the front end. You've got 8# of dead weight in a full windshield washer reservoir alone. There are lots of ways to even up the weight distribution.
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
I realized it cost 4K this morning. And i dont have that much money to blow on a block, but i wonder how much weight we could take off our car with getting to radical. I would love to have an alum engine block, but i understand that iron is alot better for just a reg street/show car. Anyone know what's the lightest someone has gotten a 3rd gen to with out sacrificing creature comfort? I plan on keeping my Air Conditioning system when i build my new engine. But how much does a EGR and all that extra stuff we really dont need weigh?