JBert

Ive been thru a few camaros, and have never gotten to the point where I'm at in terms of building a new forced induction motor.

Its going to be a street/strip car, 6 spd most likely.

I have a "010" 350 block- 4 bolt mains, bored out to 355, that has been sitting in my gagage. Its just the block, no main caps or anything.

When I bring the block to the shop to get cleaned up, should I have the exact caps with it that I will be using on the final build. I thought I read somewhere that you need your origional caps? I probably mis-read.

When it comes to the top end, will I have any problems with head selection/after market ram system mating up properly? What about accessories & whatnot.

What would you suggest for a bottom end that could withstand approx 500 hp with a roots style blower?

Thanks in advance!

Apeiron

You will need the caps. If they're not the original caps, or you can't figure out which one goes where, you'll need the block align honed.

84z28350

If you want to play it safe and have a good budget go with forged internals. If you like to be risky and play the lottery and whatnot you could try getting away with cast crank with forged pistons at least.

F-BIRD'88

For 500hp roots blown 350 you want to build with forged pistons and a 7.5:1 compression ratio. this will allow running 10lbs boost on pump gas.

You'll need either the origional caps in order or new ones. Either way you will need to align hone the block. Do you have the caps?

TRW/ speedpro make 22cc D cup forged pistons that when combined with ported 76cc cylinder heads will build the correct compression ratio for a blown 350. (7.5:1)
The piston ring end gaps on a supercharged motor need to be larger than for a N/A motor to avoid ring butting under boost power. (more heat) .028" top and .026 sec should work well. use two 750cfm ( with boost referenced power valves)holleys on a 6-71 blower.

THIS CRANE CAM Will work well.

ReQUIRED READING There will be a test..

JBert

I just bought the block without caps- the guy couldnt find them. I dont mind springing for new caps- I was expecting to get everything re-honed and whatnot.

What about using centerbolt heads? Would they work? I wanna run the roots whipple efi blower.

Apeiron

I hope you got a real good deal on the block then.

JBert

10 bucks. the guy was a neighbor- his wife was getting sick of kicking it in the garage when the lights were out lol.

As for the cam- WHAT?

F-BIRD'88

I believe the Whipple is a screw type compressor.
Hope you have big bag of $$$

JBert

Im not set on the whipple- espically after doing more research.

I have had experience with Prochargers- still on the fence. I started a pair of turbo mainfolds a few years back, just dont know if i still want to go that way.

F-BIRD'88

the Whipple is anice blower no doubt. Screw compressors are more efficient than Roots type like a 6-71.
But they cost more. The Roots set up Like BDS system when set up with 10lbs boost on a 7.5:1 motor will make more more power for less$$$ with full reliability. Neither will fit under your hood. Actual fuel mileage will be simular.

The BDS system is simpler too. For the novice its a better way to go. the result is the same. (tons of streetable power)
A polished BDS 6-71 with twin 750's on a 7.5:1 350 built as speced will make well in excess of 500hp @10lbs boost and is more appealing to the eye.

The Whipple has better heat efficiency allowing higher cr with less boost but the result is the same. the Rootes engine is just built with a little less cr (7.5:1) and more boost.
When a BDS system is set up for the street with correct ignition timing and carbs it is very street friendly and will last a very very long time.

Stepping up to 110-114octane race gas for track use will allow more boost 15-20lbs and 700+HP easily with just a pulley swap. very flexable. If you'd like to do this you should "O ring" the block decks in preperation of this during the build.

A superchaged motor does not need to rev very high but needs strong pistons to withstand some detonation ( tuning mistakes) Forged pistons and a forged crank are recomended.
The whipple cannot move enough air for this power.

F-BIRD'88

i know what the description says for that cam but it is a good powerfull street blower cam for a 6-71 blown 350.

it's not near as radical as it sounds. i run a very simular Comp XE284H-10 cam in my 406ci 9.8:1 fbird. (tighter110LSA)
Idle is rough but rock steady at 800rpm. excellent throotle response and power to 6000rpm. enough vacuum for power breaks.
This one is just ground on a blower friendly 112 LSA.

The blower will tame it quite a bit too.

The next milder grind is good too for a 6-71 blown 350.
Crane#114051

If you want mild then use Crane # 113801

Very tame with either a Whipple or BDS blower for the faint hearted LOL Positive displacement blowers like a Whipple ro a Roots tame down a cams charactoristics quite a bit.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

1500CFM of flow (dual 750CFM carbs) sounds like overkill....

Isn't damon running a 6-71 with a q-jet and gets ~450HP?

holy cow f-bird, you've got a 284 grind, and you can idle at 800RPM? geez, learn something new every day... that thing must be a rocket..

F-BIRD'88

it's not

??? Guess you could use a Qjet on a blower as long as you know how to modify it to flow enough fuel to maintain a proper AFR at WOT. Most people don't. I would not doubt that Damon can pull it off.

What's the problem? Just have to know how to set up igniton timing curve and carb for a radical, rough idle cam. Have run larger race cams that idle just as nice.
Getting the Xe284 to idle right is not that big a deal.
Have you had trouble getting a car with a big cam, to idle at an acceptable rpm?