mult68

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm FINALLY back in the market to build the 383 (or 355 depending on cost and performance) engine I've been planning to do for awhile. I'm getting ready to buy the rotating assembly to use in the waiting block. I'm looking to run it mostly just on the street (maybe some track time but only once or twice a year). It also isn't my daily driver.....but I would like to drive it relatively often. Plan to use a super ram on top of it. Currently have a T56 and 3.73 gears. Hope to make about 400-450 hp.....

Here are some possible kits that I'm considering. These are from strokermotor.com (who happen to be local). Which of these would you recommend....or is there another source I should consider?

355 assemblies:
Internal Balanced Part #IB3552

Crank: New SCAT Cast Steel 3.480 Stroke
Pistons: Keith Black Hypereutectic Flat Tops 10.2 CR w/64cc
Rods: Scat 4340 Steel I-Beam, 5.7 w/ 7/16 Bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'P' bearing
Balancer: Pioneer 350 elastic style 8" diameter
Flexplate: HD 350 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 2 grams
$1,250.00


Internal Balanced Part #IB3553

Crank: New SCAT Cast Steel 9000 series 3.480 Stroke
Pistons: Keith Black Hypereutectic Flat Tops 10.2 CR w/64cc
Rods: Scat 6.0 4340 Forged Steel I-Beam w 7/16 bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'P' bearing
Balancer: Pioneer Street Performance Steel 7" diameter
Flexplate: HD 350 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 1 gram
$1,275.00


Internal Balanced Part #IB3554E

Crank: 5140 Forged Steel 3.480 Stroke
Pistons: Probe Forged Flat Tops 10.8:1 CR
Rods: 6.0 4340 Forged Steel H-Beam w/ARP 7/16 bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'H' bearing
Balancer: Pioneer Street Performance Steel 7" diameter
Flexplate: 350 SFI approved, 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 1 gram
This kit will take 200HP of NOS
$1,495.00


383 assemblies:
External Balanced Part #EB3832

Crank: New SCAT Cast Steel 3.750 Stroke
Pistons: Keith Black Flat Tops 10.3 CR w/64cc, 9.1 w76cc
Rods: Scat 4340 Steel I-Beam, 5.7 w/ 7/16 Bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'P' bearing
Balancer: Pioneer 400 elastic style 8" diameter
Flexplate: HD 400 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 2 grams
$1,250.00

This is the kit we use in our 425 HP motor

and in our

New 484 HP Hyd Roller Cam Motor, just off the Dyno.


Internal Balanced Part #IB3831

Crank: New SCAT Cast Steel 9000 series 3.750 Stroke
Pistons: Keith Black Flat Tops 10.9 CR w/64cc, 9.6 w76cc
Rods: Scat 6.0 4340 Forged Steel I-Beam w 7/16 bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'P' bearing
Balancer: Pioneer Street Performance Steel 7" diameter
Flexplate: HD 350 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 1 gram
This kit will take 100HP of NOS
Please note that this kit sometimes need heavy metal when we balance it. This costs Extra.
$1,275.00


Internal Balanced Part #IB3832E

Crank: 5140 Forged Steel 3.750 Stroke
Pistons: Probe Forged Flat Tops 11.1:1 CR
Rods: 6.0 4340 Forged Steel H-Beam w/ARP 7/16 bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'H' bearing
Balancer: Pioneer Street Performance Steel 7" diameter
Flexplate: 350 SFI approved, 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 1 gram
This kit will take 200HP of NOS
$1,495.00



Again these are just possible ones that I saw....I'm up for any recommendations. Looking to spend no more than $1500 or so.

WhiteHawk

I like this...6in rods, steel crank, high revving 3.48 stroke. What heads you putting on this now?

Internal Balanced Part #IB3553

Crank: New SCAT Cast Steel 9000 series 3.480 Stroke
Pistons: Keith Black Hypereutectic Flat Tops 10.2 CR w/64cc
Rods: Scat 6.0 4340 Forged Steel I-Beam w 7/16 bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'P' bearing
Balancer: Pioneer Street Performance Steel 7" diameter
Flexplate: HD 350 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 1 gram
$1,275.00


If you want stroked, make sure you clearance the block and make sure they clearance the rods for you (you can't touch the rods after balance, so then you have to get a custom small base circle cam and pray it doesn't hit). Also, get the 6 in rods if you build a stroker, better angle and better for higher rpms. The stroker adds torque at a small hp loss (maybe 10 hp). I built a stroker for a truck, but the trucks dead so I put it in my car. If I did it all over again i'd not stroke it just to rev it up to 6500 safely time and time again.

What heads are you running?

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

I prefer 5.7 rod 383. Keep the power a little lower and makes more torque. People will argue this I'm sure and bring up piston speeds and rod angles, but it works. Plus keeping the RPM's down will be less stressful on your valvetrain.

Stekman

IMO, go for the kit that yields a desired compression for which ever cc combustion chamber your heads will have. I would shoot for about 10:1 +/- .5.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

Keep in mind that you'll want to blueprint the motor and clearance the block before assembly. Meaning deck heights, bearing clearances and piston to block, crank to block and piston to crank clearances must all be checked. Full block prep should include sonic testing, square and zero decking the block, boring, plate honing, checking and correting line bore if necessary, tapping for screw in galley plugs, and new freeze plugs.

WhiteHawk

Hey, we all arent made of money lol... Yes things like checking bearing clearances should be done everytime you build an engine (plastigauge is very cheap insurance) and the rotating it to check all clearances, like .050 min on everything. If you got the money, get all that other stuff done by a pro...(er, guy with all the tools at the least).

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

If you aren't made of money then wait a little while to do it. Save up the money to do it right. You ablsolutely HAVE to clearance the block. The rods WILL hit the block. The rest is all about making good HP and durability. You want the pistons sitting in the hole .030"? Tight bearing clearances that heat up the oil and suck up HP? Skip all the steps and save your money. I'll drive right on around you.