Destructimus

My car today randomly started running even crappier than normal. I've been trying to figure out an EGR problem for a while, it being the only trouble code I have. The valve and solenoid seem fine, and it always ran fine (unless you were at idle) but today it started crappin out whenever I hit the throttle in gear. It would miss like crazy and try to stall out. I was able to get into a repair shop after I cranked my fuel pressure all the way up, and additionally I think its a fuel system problem because if it missed like crazy but was still getting fuel, you'd expect to smell a rich mixture but I didn't. It seemed lean if anything. The thing is, a fuel system problem is hard to fathom because I just replaced the pump, injectors, some of the fuel lines, and the filter. Anybody have any other ideas? I wouldn't even be suprised if my ecm was dying...

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

well its a longshot but when my camaro started doing that whole miss and stall when you accelerate thing it was my map sensor, it wasnt sensing the engine load poperly and therefore it wasnt telling the ECM the proper amount of fuel to deliver. Ended up chasing the fuel system because thats where i thought my issue was replaced the pump/filter/ pressure reg and even paid waaaaaay too much to have the lines flushed with no avail. Then the tech had an extra map sensor in his box (dunno why) and he swapped it with mine and it ran like a beast again. MAP/MAF should serve the same function so id look there, im willing to bet that by cranking up your fuel pressure you forced the motor into getting enough fuel to limp around, i hated that so much it drove me insane had to drive it like that for 2 weeks while trying to figure out the issue cuz it was my dd so i stayed out of the pedal as much as possible

Hope that helps

Destructimus

I did try just disconnecting the map sensor at one point to see if it would help and it didn't. Tried that with the tps too. The ecm should put in a substitute setting when that happens, at least I know it does with the tps and 02 sensors. That does give me some hope though that it won't cost me an arm and a leg.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

no no no no no you cant dissconnect the map sensor and hope to see results. Doesnt work that way, when you disconnect the map sensor its not pulling vaccum from the motor and not connected to the ECM, therefore its not communicating with the ECM telling it what amount of fuel to put into the motor. When the sensor is faulty it isnt communicating with the ECM properly, so in short a faulty MAP sensor is the same as NO map sensor so it will cause it to buck and stall. Unfortunately you will probably have to buy a new one and hook it up, check summit $70 for a sensor...so itll only cost you an arm lol

Destructimus

Haha well the tech guys at the performance shop should be able to figure that out, and if they have to test it that way, It'll cost them the arm. If push comes to shove, I'm sure I could buy a MAP sensor at the autozone down the street and return it if it doesn't work. They know me by name in there. Thanks.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

well my buddy had the same issue with his map sensor in his 91 rs he dropped it off at a performance garage that has a guarentee that they
"identify and correct the issue or its free"

Well the tech went at this car for like 2 weeks and i just stopped by every day to see the progress he was getting madder and madder with each day he went through and replaced the full fuel system like i did and keep in mind if its not the issue its free, not the pump, not the filter, not the pressure reg, so all the parts and labor were free, obviously you could tell why he was getting mad its his shop and he was pretty much pissin away his money so i waltzed up with my map sensor and it ran like a dream, he looked at me and was like "you couldnt have told me before!?" but hey, who is gonna refuse free stuff? So my buddy got a full new fuel system and a map sensor with labor for about $160. Then the jerk turned around and sold it for $900 like an idiot

cronsformula350

I have a question, did you bother checking the Coolant temperature sensor yet? Those sensors fail a lot more often than you think. CHANGE IT!!! Check the resistance of it when its cold, and compare it to what its supposed to be. U can also bring a lead to test the resistance of one, thats brand new. I recently changed the one in my moms '92 lumina, 3.4 twin dual cammer, and its a 15 second car, for a 3600lb car, its nice, and it wastes rice!

The CTS that was in the car, was measuring 2500 ohms when it was cold, and the new one was 2090 ohms cold. The bad CTS was making the Digital EGR work all wrong, and at partial throttle, while the EGR is meant to be working, it would be working, then you'd let off the gas, and it would die, thanks to the bad CTS. With the new CTS, problem sovled, you can hear the EGR opening and closing and it runs like a charm!

I thought I'd tell you this, because I'm going to be done with school for becoming an automotive technician, so I can help with these things. I've worked on tons of cars, and you can't over look the simple stuff, and blame things like the fuel system.

Change that CTS, they're only $14-20 usually also.

Destructimus

Yeah I'll have to check that out. My temp sensor has acted up in the past. I remember one time I looked down to see my temperature read allll the way up. I immediately pulled over and stopped the car, but the coolant wasn't boiling or anything and it didn't go down at all until a few days later it started acting normal again. If I wasn't 40 miles from home when it shat out on me I'd probably just change both. I already replaced my whole fuel system... 3 months ago, with performance stuff so I don't want them to mess with that crap. And what is up with Illinois? Lol you guys vote like what, 89% democrat haha its all good tho. Thanks!

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

sweet explanation bro but his cts would not cause the car to stall, a sensor only "senses" tempurature, running it to the gauge, im in college for APT as well id seriously look into that map sensor though, plus who is to say that a new CTS has the proper resistance when cold? Without a manufacturer specified resistance thats just a shot in the dark, aka thorwing parts at a problem hoping to ifx it. Auto parts stores obviously have a high return rate for defective products so i wouldnt trust it by comparing "new" to your current sensor. As long as your gauge works the sensor is fine.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

in addition to my previous post, his EGR valve wouldnt affect the stalling, its a recirculation valve for exhaust gases...hence the name EGR, all it does is recycle exhaust gases back through the intake to burn up any combustable gasses making it a more complete burn, so a messed up EGR would only cause him to fail a sniffer test at best.

For personal experience when i was getting an EGR code it wasnt the egr itself, my intake was just so gunked up that it kept gumming up my egr, the intake was pulled and sent through a parts washer and viola, clean as a whistle and that pesky code went away i contacted the previous owner and when he did his motor swap he bought a longblock and just reused the intake up without cleaning it, so it had roughly 400k miles of who knows what in there.

If you get code 32 that pops up and dissapears when you turn the car off and on dont pay much attention to it do a search for "code 32" and see what it give ya

Destructimus

Man you are making me wish I had my car here to work on. I'm tempted to drive down there with a MAP sensor and a spare set of keys to see what happens. Thanks.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

hopefully that would be it because i know how frustrating it is to try to fix something and spend tons of time doing it just for no results

keep us posted

cronsformula350

I'm sorry, but your dead wrong! a CTS isn't for telling the gauge how hot the engine is running, thats not what it does, its for the computer to know how hot the engine is, it can cause some stalling, but thats more of the EGR. If the CTS is out of spec, it tells the motor to run way to rich and makes it run like ****. You need to do your homework. I'm the one thats becoming a technician, and I have already had two f-bodies, and have taken all the classes on computer controls and sensors and all the wiring, a CTS isn't a sender for a gauge only, some cars don't use that sender, but have two, one for the gauge, and another for the computer. Some F-bodies use them for both things. But don't over look the simple stuff.

If you don't want to check your CTS thats fine, do what you want, its your car, my cars have always run 100% and I got 25mpg in the city with my 87 iroc-z TPI 350, so U think I don't know what I'm doing? The first time at the tack with it, I went from a 15.1 @89mph to a 13.81 @99mph.

You can also check the pressure regulator diaghram. If you taste gas in the vacuum line, it may be leaking down, if your mileage sucks also, thats part of the problem. Sometimes its several things that lead to a problem, not just one thing or another. And if you did any recent work to the car, go back to the last thing you worked on, sometimes thaose can be the problem also.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

apparently i struck a nerve. For the record getting your AAS is not as hard as you think so dont come to me like your some amazing tech.

In any case, back to the topic...you, cronsformula350 are overlooking the simple things, his car is still showing symptoms of a bad map sensor whereas his CTS is only "showing symptoms" through some wild tangent cooked up by yourself. Overanalyizinng the situation is not the way to go if his cts was out there would be more codes than for just his egr and his car would be rich, read his first post it states "lean if anything"

Destructimus, head to autozone and get that MAP, take it to the shop and give it a try, if it works, great. If not, im sorry for misleading you, you can look into crons "solution" from there.

cronsformula350

Sorry NEW B, you can have a bad CTS and you won't even be able to tell it, the comupter doesn't always check codes, do what ever the hell you want to.

By the way, do you have your automotive certification your ASE already? They're not that easy. Have fun, thats why I got off these stupid boards, people like you, act like they know everything, I don't waste my time with BS from people like you, I'm trying to offer some help, you just talk stuff.

Have fun with your car!

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

have a good day. Theres really no reason to be getting mad calling people "NEW B's" bro, you might offend someone with that. Im offering help too and you just pop up outta nowhere and start throwing out your opinion trying to force people to believe you. You know why these boards are so misleading? Becuase people run you in circles saying its this, no its this, no its that. Guess what when my camaro had the same issues as Destructimus another jerk off wannabe tech told me it was my cts. Wrong. It was the MAP sensor. His car is jerking and stalling from "lack of fuel" which causes the jerk when he accelerates, thats a faulty sensor from my experience.

have fun with your car.

cronsformula350

This may be true, you can disconnect the map sensor, and the car should fire up still, running off the mem cal chip. If the problem seems to go away, that may be part of the problem, but you can also cehck the output of the map sensor, diagnose the problem, don't start spending money on parts without testing them, thats why I'm becoming a technician!

But since TPI's are Batch fire, you must also check the resistance of the injectors, easy 2 minute job. If one injector is less than 21 ohms, theres too much current, and it screws the computer up and all the injectors will not work properly.

You can also remove the vacuum from the EGR, EGR's also cause a stalling problem, if they are stuck partially open, this will take the EGR out of the diagnoses. I don't even run the EGR, its disconnected. The computer doesn't even notice the EGR solenoid isn't connected or running.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

nobody cares if you are a tech so stop screaming about it.

Not everyone of the guys on these boards has had "formal training and most dont need it. Besides if you took the time to read he said he could TRY it and if it didnt work he could RETURN it. The techs that had my camaro for 2 weeks couldnt figure it out so what do YOU have that a master tech doesnt?! He tried the MAP and that was it so stop whining about the cts and the injectors. If destructamis finds it easier to throw a MAP on his car to hope it works then LET him. Dear god man its not your car

Not bashing anyone but you need to grow up and realize that just because you went to some community college or some backwash UTI school that doesnt mean you know what you are talking about.

cronsformula350

I'm not going to a useless school like uti, and where do you have a certification for working on cars? How many engines have you built? I give a f*** about what you have to say, I don't come whining on boards about my cars problems. I fix all my own ****, I was in my towns newspaper for one of my cars, and I'm 24 buddy and a golden glove boxer, wanna come to me and talk your smack? I've had 95 fights, 70KO's and 25TKO's so wanna bring it? And your car? The tracks 18 minutes from my house.

I don't mean to be an ***, but guys like this *****, talk ****, I'm telling you the things that have all shown similar problems in certain cars. You can have several bad sensors, and make your car act haywire. I don't just act like I know how to work on cars, technicians aren't mechanics, they're better, its called diagnose the problem, not waste money. I read the post!!! This is why these boards suck!

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

Mods please close this thread or clean it up

Please and Thank you.

Some people dont appreciate the boards and just wanna use up the bandwith

cronsformula350

I'm not trying to use up the thread. I've worked on over 50 f-bodies, oldschool '67-'02's. I'm trying to help. Thats fine if you want to do what you want.

jdv1

I am also having similar issues but sometimes my car will not start at all unless I shoot gas in the throttle body and sometimes it starts but runs rough any advice will be appreciated.Also this is my first post

cronsformula350

Let these other guys help you out. I'm not worthy.

Destructimus

Welcome to the boards jdv1. It sounds like you could be having the same problem as me. If it doesn't even start sometimes though, I'd start by checking the fuel pump out by simply listening for it to turn on when you turn your key to the on position. If you listen by the gas tank, you should be able to hear it make a whirring noise for a few seconds.

Also, cronsformula350, I am heeding your advice just as much as master_disaster. I almost feel as though I could be having two separate issues with my engine, one that just reared its ugly head when it actually broke down, but that temperature sensor could explain the EGR code I've been getting for a while. No input is bad input!

kooga

21 ohms??? Isnt the injectors supposed to be like 16 ohms?? But I guess its hard to measure with gloves on....sorry couldnt help it..

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

ok, lets start over.

Im still dead convinced you map sensor is to blame, BUT it may make matter easier to help you diagnose it if you tell us what code you are getting. Does it pop up and go away? Does the SES light stay on even after you turn the car off? There are a few codes that mention the EGR but if you look they have those big "OR" 's in between them, the simplest way to check if your EGR is functioning properly, reach underneath it and feel for the rubber diaphram. While the car is running push up on the diaphram and you SHOULD notice the engine idle behave differently. Never in my life have i heard of your cts being to blame for a stall, maybe for an overheating issue but NEVER a stall.

Also as a note....when you accelerate the EGR does not engage. Its when you decellerate that it comes in to play to accomidate for the extra fumes from the increases in fuel consumption and recycles it from there.

If you look up the DTC's 2/5 of them that mention a fault at the EGR also have a big OR followed by some sort of fault at the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor

jdv1

I changed the map sensor in my car today and it did not help with my problem.Thanks for your input.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

well your situation is probably different than Destructamis', how is yours behaving? is it throwing any codes? When you cover the basics it tends to help you move on from there

godreject

iTrader: (1)

Was this problem ever fixed im having similar issues with my 91 350 tpi, car idles fine but misses pretty badly when you give it gas, no codes, i figured it was bad spark plug gapping, i recently bought the car and one gap was @ 60 gap while the others were @ 40. i reggaped all spark plugs, put new wires, rotor, cap, and switched out my ignition coil from my 88 which i know works, things did get better but it still misses badly, car has very little power, im even getting slight back firing, im maybe thinking clogged catalitic converters, would this cause misfiring, any help is apreciated thanks

Destructimus

I'm heading down to the tech's today with a map sensor and they've got a fuel pressure tester coming in for it today as well. I'll be able to tell you what's up tonight, hopefully.

Destructimus

Okay guys, I went down there today and put the new map sensor in, re-lowered my fuel pressure, and BAM I roasted my tires on my way out of the parking lot, so it seems safe to say that the MAP sensor was my problem. Thanks for your input guys.

I have two additional things I would like to mention. First, if anyone is from the metro detroit area, I would highly recommend you DO NOT take one of our cars to Street Legal Customs on Woodward. They did not have a fuel pressure tester or scanner for OBD1 computers, all they did was open my hood and call me up to tell me that some stuff in my engine bay was loose, which I already knew about. Basically, I gave them my car for 5 days, told them the problem and probably cause, then came down there, an hour out of my way, with the part and installed it myself. Even after all that, they still felt it necessary to charge me $50 for a diagnostic.

Second, on my way home, I got a new trouble code. This time for the throttle position sensor. I'm going to clear my computer and on my way to work, if I don't get an EGR code I'm going to buy a new TPS and see what happens. I'll probably get a CTS too but a little further down the road, after I get the new set of tires I desperately need right now.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

well im glad to hear it, your issues sounded exactly like my own and since you already replaced your entire fuel system minus the lines, i figured that'd be the safest bet.

As for your tps didnt you say you were fiddling with it before?

Destructimus

I tried testing out my car with it disconnected, but I've reconnected it since then. I've gotten a tps code now all three of the last times I've driven it.

blue91z28cam

iTrader: (4)

I had the same problem a while back with my 91 LB9...it would want to stall when I tapped the gas and would die on the road if I let off the gas when approching a stop light....I researched a lil asked a question here and there and found out that it was my IAC valve...I ended up buying a new one from Autozone for about 50 bucks and put it in myself..afterwards all I had to do is adjust my idle and reset the ECM and its been fine since..
I hope this helps you out man
-Fernando

godreject

iTrader: (1)

my problems is solved somewhat, i changed my plug and gapped them all @ 45 and added some msd wires, cars idles great and runs strong. just need to add my msd box see if that will make it run a bit better. car has power and runs well, but might be missing some power. i can remember my 88 iroc having way more *****, wonder if my 88 having a 350 tranny instead of the 700 will make that much difference, now on to my next problem car won't start even though battery has full charge, alternator is new, and battery is good, im thinking starter maybe, starter was beginning to whine every now and then on cold start ups so im sure its time to be replaced thanks 4 the help

Destructimus

I tried replacing the tps today and it didn't make a difference. I neglected to clear my computer though. Would that make a big difference? It only turns on after I've been driving it for a little while but then it stays on...

Nova222

Yea, sounds like the starter, had the same problem with my Nova not too long ago

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

the computer has alot of power of these cars obviously. Unfortunately i dont have an experience with TPS but i do remember seeing a tech articale on the main page on how to check it and all that good stuff with a dmm

Destructimus

WTF today my car started doing the same **** it was doing before I changed the sensor. Didn't notice whether or not it was burning rich or lean, but it sure feels the same. I checked and correctly changed my tps voltage so I don't think I'll be getting a code for that any more, and I intend to check the ohms on my injectors later tonight to see whats up with that, but any other ideas guys? I'm pretty sure I need to replace my EGR solenoid (its cracked and broken) but I don't think that would be causing this.

Edit: Ok I checked my injectors and they all seem fine. All are between 15.6 and 15.8 ohms resistance so I don't think the problem is there. I probably am going to pick up an egr solenoid and cts tomorrow and see what happens. I think I'm also going to pick up a fuel pressure tester because i've needed one for a while anyway.

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

damn f-body gremlins.... yeah id say start with the basics like your doing, that solenoid being cracked definitely cant be good but im wondering why its acting up again. Did you verify that your egr is working and holding a good vaccum?

stealth908

iTrader: (2)

Your EGR can definately cause your car to run poorly. I saw someone on this thread say something to the contrary. If it's open all the time, or leaking vacuum internally (very common) then it'll surely cause a driveability problem. Since you know it's broken then replace it. You know, you can vacuum check those too. Also, clean the EGR port well, and replace the gasket.

Destructimus

I checked the valve to make sure it held good vacuum independently but I have not checked the entire system with a vacuum tester. I'm going to replace the solenoid later today and I will let you all know how it goes.

Destructimus

Okay I went to buy a new solenoid today and wehn I looked at the new one, I realized that what I thought was a crack was supposed to be there and mine seems at least good enough. I did however, get a fuel pressure tester and got some odd results when I checked it.

When I first started the engine, it hovered right around 40 psi. It jumped around a bit between 40 and 45 psi. Is that normal? It only gets weirder. First off, it slowly dwindled its way down to running at around 30 psi, and whenever I would hit the gas, it would drop down all the way to 20 psi. All of this happened with my afpr turned ALL THE WAY UP. It's like the afpr won't make a difference. It seemed to lower the psi though when I backed it off. Is it possible my fuel pump is going bad? It's a Walbro 255lph pump with like, 5000 miles on it so I can't imagine it being bad. I might try putting my old pump in just to see what happens...

cronsformula350

Was that me that said that? If it was, no, your EGR isn't open all the time. Your EGR is only meant to work on partial throttle, if its working all the time, you may have a bad solenoid, it can be stuck open, and you may have a problem with your egr, sometimes the diaghram may be stuck on in the EGR. You don't even need your EGR, I removed my solenoid for my EGR, I just have the EGR there, but it isn't actually working, it has the temp sensor on it connected. I have the EGR disconnected from the solenoid and any vacuum, but it hasn't set a code, and the computer doesn't even know its missing. If you don't believe me, ask any technician; if you think it is, actuate your EGR, when its on, if its on, and your not in the throttle, it can make the engine die, it only is supposed to work a little bit, too much, can kill the engine, try it your self. Apply some vacuum to the EGR, suck on the tube, and it can make your engine run like crud.

As for your fuel pressure, it should be around 30-35 psi at idle, and go up to around 42 when you rev the motor up. I have mine set at 47.5 psi, because that worked the best with the rochester injectrors I had on my 87 iroc, it ran the best at the track. 50.5 psi is supposed to be good for bosch 22 lb/hr stockers. But if you remove the vacuum line from the regulator, the psi should go all the way up, when vacuum is on, it should be the 30-35 psi at idle. When you turn the ignition, the fuel pump comes on for two seconds, and you should build some pressure too, it should go up to the pressure you have the regulator set at. If not, they're may be a problem. U may have a dirty fuel filter, when was the last time you changed it? For a performance car, you should change the filter every ten thousand miles, or once every other summer.

Destructimus

I tried just disconnecting the solenoid a while back and it didn't really do anything differently. The engine does stay at 30-35 psi at idle, but when I rev the motor it actually drops substantially. I have an access hatch so changing the pump takes like a half hour, so I think i'm going to put my old one in tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks.

camarocrazy69

Hey Destructimus, I know how you feel right now. I'm having similar issues with my baby too. I was hoping someone could help me figure this out.
I have 91 5.7 tpi z28 and she's getting the flu or something.

Randomly ran rough one day too. Did a full tune up and it helped, but didn't fix the problem. It has a random no start no crank issue. fuel pump comes on and nothing. i wait five to ten minutes, she fires right up. this unfortunately is the least of my problems right now.

It stalls at idle and wants to stall with excelleration and bucks like a crazy bull!!! Now my RPM gauge won't even read anymore and sometimes white smoke pours out the exhaust. not a single code for anything. Sometimes i can smell fuel when this happens and the gas mileage is very low.

So far I have replaced and installed:
acdelco Spark plugs
accell wires
bwd cap and rotor soon to be msd
msd coil just put on and still no rpm reading after replacing new bwd coil (thinking it went bad . . . guess not.)
IAC vavle (ran better for a new york minute!)
all exhaust check vavles
brake booster check vavle
O2 sensor
fuel filter a year ago, yet only drove it about 6000 miles since
all vacuum hoses
battery and cables
starter
ignition lock cyclinder
thermostat and upper/lower rad hoses
trany fluid and filter
cleaned the throttle body
and other stuff

everything I've replaced has helped, but somthing else is still not working right and it's getting worse every day.

had an overheating issue also, because my fans weren't coming on. come to find out one fan motor was dead and wiring was bad, replaced motor and wiring too. fans work good now.
yet the radiator is clogged also, so i'm about to replace that too.

Yet I'm more concerned with it's bucking and stalling, lack of codes and no rpm reading. the map, egr, cts, fuel pressure regulator and injectors are all original.
I got a job at Oreilly Auto Parts to support my car's drug habbit, but she's fiending for something else and i don't know what it is. Now I need some drugs to help me cope with this problem!

the guy i bought it from put a hyper tech chip in it and i'm wondering if that went bad and is causing these problems . . . or is my computer bad?
Sigh, could anyone here point me in a better direction? The parts are killin the paycheck and that's with the discount!

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Sincerely,
Stressed out white woman in trouble!


Ps. Sometimes it runs really well! Like i'm some crazy chick chasin a ghost!!! Yet 90% of the time it runs very poorly, hot or cold.

cronsformula350

Well before your throwing parts at the car or blaming the fuel pump's or computer, you need to make sure the alternator is putting out the right voltage, and its getting to the pump, and also make sure that all your fuel injectors are at least 21 ohms, since the TPI's are batch fire, if one is below 21 ohms, it is too much current, and makes the injectors not behave right and it screws the computers up. The transistors can't switch them on and off properly, so check the injectors, make sure the power getting to them is correct, or that may be one of your preoblems, all it takes is one injector. Also check the fuel pump and that it is getting at least what the voltage is at the battery when the key is on and the engines running, make sure its getting to the motor. Check the grounds for the engine under the hood, also making sure they are all clean, these are the most important, if one is dirty, that can also cause trouble.

Also see about the fuel filter, when was the last time you changed it?

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Destructimus,
What injectors are you using, the injector ohm shoudl be ~15.8 on each if its Accel, Ford Racing, Multecs Bosch III..

Thats if you havent HIGH resistance injectors..
Stock injectors are around 16 ohms.(at least 85-89) and ill think 90-92 got the samt resistence.. and if they are below 12 they are toast..

I would recommend calling Jon at FIC if you got problems with injectors, he will help you out checking them out. Never got better service then from Jon. I really recommend calling him, Bad injectors will cause really bad idle and hesitation during throttle... I changed injectors 2 times first accel = CRAP, then Ford Racing (Denso) = not running right, dont like pressures over 39.15 and then Jon contacted me and told me to test his Bosch III injectors, now im running them , And Ive never got better idle.. really smooth. They got 3 years waranty and are flowmatched..

So call Jon at Fuel Injector Connection and

Destructimus

I'm using accel injectors in my car. I tested the ohms and they were right around what you said they should be. I am curious about ohms on a fuel pump. I tested my Walbro pump that I took out of my car yesterday and it had like 6 ohms resistance while the old one I bought the car with (not sure the brand, but it still worked when I took it out) had like 56 ohms resistance. Another thing I thought was weird, was on the pumps there's the weather pack where you plug the wires in and then another part that just has two metal parts, presumably for testing. I tested both on each, and on the old one it had the same resistance but on the walbro the wearher pack had only like 1.6 ohms versus 6 at the test lead...

Also, CamaroCrazy69, that white smoke scares me. how often does that happen? I would pop your radiator cap and watch inside there while the engine is running. If you see a bunch of bubble coming up from there once the thermosat is opened you could be burning coolant which likely means a blown head gasket or worse yet a crack in your cylinder head. Next time it happens, smell the exhaust. If it has a kind of sweet smell it's likely burnt coolant.

Destructimus

Alright guys, I put the new (my old) fuel pump in today and started it up. It idled at a steady 60 psi with the fuel pressure turned all the way and the vacuum line removed. I lowered it to 50 psi and took it for a test drive and it ran great. Also, I stumbled across this thread yesterday:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...-lph-tank.html

Apparently Walbro pumps have become junk. I would highly recommend against installing a Walbro pump. If I had my NOS kit in and I sprayed when that pump half died, my engine would be fried right now.