Twitch RS

Hey there I planning to build a 383 Stroker

It will be carb

I want to get about 400-450 HP and Torque out of it

How would YOU do it?

What parts would YOU buy?

Discuss away!!!

fast82z

iTrader: (1)

That doesn't take too much, and could be done on a set of vortec heads for lower $. I'd go for 750cfm carb, rpm air gap or victor jr intake, vortec or better heads, and probably just about any cam mid 220's duration @ .050 or more.
Follow that with the other stuff like headers, converter, gears,... and you'd be in mid 12 second territory. That basically is what my buddy at the strip has and does 12.2-12.4's.

thewolf

iTrader: (5)

You could always try the Goodwrench Quest

Take a Goodwrench 350 crate motor, do heads, cam, intake, maybe a few other things. Might be a fun project where you don't have to mess with the bottom end. The base 350 crate engine is about $1600, so that gives you a lot of money to work with.

The ZZ383 is honestly not a bad engine combination either ($5100 though).

NatesZ/28

Dart SHP 372-427cid shortblock, at least a 270-grind comp cam, Dart top end kit (200cc heads and a dual plane intake) and a 750cfm carb with vac secondaries, Tri-Y headers, HEI dizzy, 8mm plug wires.
you could do that for 6grand and it's good up to 600hp, add cam and springs

I wont build a serious motor with a factory block anymore...not worth it.
Last motor I worked on was built from the ground up with a Dart Lil M block at 427cid with GM Raised Ports and matching GM intake and the owner popped for a real Barry Grant carb (not a demon) and some Lemons Headers in a 32 coupe on a tube chassis. 670hp on the dyno and yeah he drove it a lot.

Its hard to find good cores, you put the money into a GOOD balanced rotating assy and might have to dig through 3 cores to get a good block, then splayed main caps, ARP yadda yadda. Then your 500 dollar block lets go...you'll be in it for the cost of the SHP block (1700 I think for the block, 3100 for the shortblock last I saw.) trying to recoup everything. Additionally, if you find more money? Well lets say you started at 372cid, then you hog it to 383, but why stop there? Hit 400, 415, 427.... 400cid performance block with 200cc runners, 64 cc chambers and a 270 or even 268-style grind...pump gas killer

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

whats your budget? do it on the cheap or do it however you'd like?

I like the idea of a budget stroker kit for mid 9's to 1 compression and vortec Iron heads. step up to a nicer set of brodix iron killer IK180's or 200's for aluminum heads. Just about any LT4 hotcam sized cam for a roller cam would make 400-450 hp in a 383 and be very tame and driveable. performer rpm manifold or similar to top it off.

flat tappet cams, anything with 220's duration at .050 will be tame and make over 400hp with iron vortecs.


Going all out would be like AFR 195's or similar and a hyd. roller cam similar to the comp cams 282hr which is 230/236 on a 110 lsa. that make 450hp atleast.

either way you can use cast internals and i beam rods... doesnt have to be anything special. It will hold that power and rpms up to 6500 pretty reliably.

Twitch RS

Lol thanks guys

here is the budget...Money isn't really an object but I dont want to spend a great deal

I will spend more for better quality but I dont wanna get caught up in the let go more everything. more HP more torque...etc

So Just tell me how you would build it and use specific parts(Holly 640cf carb, edlebrock air gap, etc.)

the goal of this motor is to have gobs of low end torque but definatly not fall short on the top end

If I can cut price without losing quality anywhere I will

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I like aluminum heads for weight savings and they typically flow more than iron heads out there.
I'd go with brodix IK200's or similar. But for like 300-400 bucks more you can get AFR 195's which i feel are the best out the box heads right now. They have the best valve train too very suitable for hydr rollers which is nice.

Pistons, keep compression up in the mid 10 range. If you were looking for more power and revs, i'd go 11 to 1 flattops, but for yours i'd keep it a mild dish piston for 12-16 cc total relief. 10-10.7 to 1 is ok. Very pump gas friendly


Get yourself a 87-99 roller block and keep it a hydraulic roller cam. Use LS7 lifters since they are the cheapest out there but good quality lifter. 120 bucks a set. Hopefully you can find the rest of the stuff, the spyder/retainer plates and etc. Roller cams are 10x better than flat tappets. No break in is nice and soo much smoother, but they are abit more money but i feel its totally worth it.

if your carbed, go with typical RPM air gap manifold or similar. Dont need much for 400-450 hp.

carb, a good 750 is fine

cam shaft. I'd run some mild since with good heads it will make the power. If you intend to drive this alot, you'll love the milder cam. Car will make power no doubt. You can find LT4 hotcams for a good price these days lightly used to save money. Classifieds on camaroz28.com or here. Another good grind is a step up, the comp cams 276hr aka the CC503 grind. Very popular LT1 cam which works in small blocks.
Lunati has a nice rollers too. But for your goal you dont have to get crazy with it. Keep it simple, keep duration in the 218-226 range onthe intake and similar on the exhaust but allow abit more split since thats how most cams are ground with 4-6 degrees split.

Thats basically it. Theres very cheap ways to do this and theres very expensive ways. The above is the inbetween way. Spend some money on good heads thats a given, then you can save some money on other components. Intake manifolds are that expensive, cam can be cheap depending on what grind you get and where you get it, rotating kit doesnt have to be special, just typical cast Scat or Eagle or similar.
Hydraulic roller adds abit more cash to the project but i think its worth it.

Twitch RS

First off one of the biggest things I want from this motor is reliability(Next to power )

Ya so there is the edelbrock performer and the edelbrock performer air gap(50 bucks more)
How much actual difference is there in these two?
Also will a standard holly 650cf sit on one of those?

Thinking maybe 10:1 compression pistons(Has anyone had any experience with Keith Black Hyperutectic Pistons? Cause they are pretty good price and are real pump gas friendly just curious if anyone knows anything about them)

What is dome going to change from flat top?

Also I agree with the mild cam(prolly get next step up from mildest)

Also I read that to choose best carb take Cubic Inches x max rpm divided by 2345
So with my 383 I see that best carb for me would be a 650CF
really wanna go with holly
Any suggestions on a certain model from Holly? Street Avenger seems overpriced

Also where are places where I could maybe get summit brand stuff to save money(places where big name companies manufacture it and slap summit's name on it)

Last but not least WHAT TRANSMISSION SHOULD I BOLT TO THIS? Lol
I would like a 5-speed but I really don't know if I want to spend the money and beef up the T-5 to be able to handle the power.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

cam only ls1 with a carb intake and msd controller. or pop on some heads as well and make even more power out of it.


or

355 or 383 with vortec heads, and a roller cam around the 230/240 specs

or

383 dart iron eagle 200cc heads

lots of choices. pick your poison

thewolf

iTrader: (5)

Get the Performer RPM Air Gap, it's worth it. If you get one with a square bore (4150-style), it will fit a Holley carb. I'm thinking Edelbrock #7501 is what you're after.

I have the KB hyper pistons in my 383. They should be fine if you don't plan on running boost or nitrous. Hypereutectic pistons are more prone to damage from detonation.

Compression ratio goes up. Watch your piston-to-valve clearance.

The extra displacement from the bore and stroke of a 383 will allow you to run a slightly wilder cam than a 350. Keep that in mind.

I'm planning on getting a Quick Fuel 750 vaccuum secondary, but they are $630. I don't think 750cfm is too much for a 383, but I wouldn't go over that. If you go with a manual tranny, get mechanical secondaries like a Holley 750 DP.

If you want a manual that will hold up to 400hp and 450 ft-lbs of torque, a T56 is in order. Don't forget the necessary suspension and brake upgrades to support your new powerplant.

Twitch RS

OK well can you give me a reason why the performer RPM air gap is worth it?? Cause I can't find one...

The regular performer is made for idle-5500 rpm and the RPM Air Gap is 1500 - 6500 the first one is way more my range

Also decided to just use a 700R4 adding shift kit and B&M Megashifter

I don't plan on boosting but I suppose I might want to down the road(Doubt it)

And why a 750? Do I really need that big??? though 650 would be fine

thewolf

iTrader: (5)

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...gap/index.html

Scroll to the bottom for the results; an air-gap manifold was worth a handful of torque over the non-air-gap one. Pretty cheap performance gain for something that requires ordering a slightly different part number.

The Performer RPM is for 1500-6500rpm; the Performer is for idle-5500. They are both available with or without an air gap. With the extra cubes from a 383, your engine will easily handle an RPM manifold.

I'm sure a 650 would work. There is a very popular Holley model 750 DP that should be easy to locate though.

Twitch RS

Ah ok thanks alot man!

So now I am down to this lol the Edelbrock performer Air Gap vs. the Performer RPM Air Gap...the regular air gap one is the original Rpm range I was looking for so should I go with it or the RPM one with the 1500 - 6500 range?? is there any difference in power since they are both Air Gap? Will the non rpm one still be a torque monster?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Performer rpm is the manifold you want. The performer sucks! its not a good intake at all. You need the RPM version even if your not going to 6500. Infact, those are just ball park ranges and not realistic. On a 350, maybe the RPM will support 6500 but its gonna need big cam and heads. RPM flows more and is much better suited for the bigger 383

Twitch RS

O ok thank yo very much man and I wasn't reffering to the regular performer...I was reffering to the fact that there is an original performer Air Gap adn an RPM with air gap...my only qusetion is that how is the RPM better for off the line torque when the other is made for lower RPM range?

Like what makes it an RPM exactly?? what else is changed from a regular performer

Not saying I don't believe it just asking

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Its the shape of the runners and such. RPM more than likely has larger runners for more flow and possibly shorter runners to allow for higher rpm range.

Twitch RS

ok cool...so how do you like your keith black pistons?

NatesZ/28

If this is going to be a street car, Id avoid the double pumper, there are better choices out there for street cars. If youre going for a hot street setup, double your CID and go with vac secondaries. Engines really would rather be UNDER carbed than OVER carbed (mathmatical equations dont usually take into account the low efficiency of these engines, air density and driving style). Will you leave a little topend on the table? Sure. But the part throttle and off idle response will be better. My friend has an edelbrock quadrajet on his 400 buick and it runs AWESOME (12.46@112) and he gets decent mileage out of it.
Get the RPM airgap, I bought my dads used on eGay because the owner painted it flat black. I chased the threads, threw it in the blasting cabinet, and then polished it to a brushed aluminum finish...looks SWEET. I paid maybe 80 bucks for it.

Watch out for Keith Black Hypers. They're GREAT street pistons but you need to pay attention. When I was in tech school, we screwed together a 350 chevy with those pistons on reconditioned rods (which I shot peened and polished - I highly reccomend this step, at least smooth the parting line) When I opened the box with the slugs in it, there was a note that the piston-ring end gap needed to be significantly closer than regular cast or forged pistons (I forget the exact number). Something to do with the expansion rate of said pistons. My teacher called up KB and asked about this and I'll save you 20 minutes, if you get a set of those pistons with a note from the MFG saying run a tighter tolerance... follow the directions or you're going to have problems.
I buy my 350 pistons through my machinist, he gets speedpro coated pistons pretty reasonably. theyre a bit heavy but a good machinist can work around that

Oh, lots of shops have already assembled 350 flat top shortblocks out here cheap...call around where you live.

I do like the vortec heads, but I have a lot of older style parts laying around so I cant justify the expense for a vortec manifold and iron heads, when I can use my 180 eliminators from AFR with a performer rpm airgap.
A lot of those older 180 AFRs are popping up now on racingjunk.com and eGay (for you 327/302/350 guys)

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

I've done it twice. First time was 420hp/450tq on pump gas. Numbers are from my in house engine dyno. This setup went 11.56 @ 118 in my 3500# T/A on pump gas, 28" tall radials, TH400 and 3.73's.

-4 bolt roller block
-eagle 3.750" crank
-400 rods, shot peened, resized, bushed and ARP bolts
-Hi-Tech "quench" pistons. They're hypers with these neat little domes that help with flame travel. Good with lower compression and straight plug heads
-10.2:1 cr
-Custom Isky cam, 214/220 @ .050" on a 110*
-AFR 195's, hand finished chambers and port matched to 1205
-stock Air Gap intake
-Modified Holley 650 DP

Setup for this year is the same block and heads, all redone. Made 520/510 on pump gas.

-Square/Zero decked w/ BHJ
- From .030 to .040 over
-Eagle 5.7 H-Beam rods
-Keith Black pistons
-10.8:1
-Port and bowl work on the heads
-Port matched the intake this time
-Bigger cam, shelf Comp cam 236/242
-Stud girdle
-Same carb.
-Went to vac advance distributor.

Twitch RS

Sweet thanks alot guys so far for the info!

So I am for sure going to get the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap
How are edelbrocks carbs? because I might concider getting a combo deal from summit(intake and carb together for cheap)

I have heard several people on here bash edelbrocks carbs but my dad(built engines for 6 years...just found that out today) said that he prefered edelbrock to holley because something on holley's always broke(can't remember what he said)

I am most likely going to be using a 350 block out of a truck(so i can have 4 bolt main)...is there anyway I could use the stock heads? because new head are quite expensive! And noone please try to suggest using 305 heads because that really is not a good idea.

Isn't there cams out there for sale that are the 400 cam but already ground to fit the 350? And aren't they reletivley inexpensive becuse of so many people using them for a 383 build?

With the current setup being discussed would I have to change any part of the fuel system from an 85-87 Iroc or z28 that had a carbed 305 in it? <-- This is the car I plan on dropping this motor into(let me know if you have one for sale cheap with a bad motor or something must have strong 700R4 and good body)

My ultimate goal for this car is like i said before...400-500 horse and torque and be able to run at least like a mid to low 12 in quarter

Any other suggestions for part or whatever is GREATLY appreciated!

Lol and what else is on that buick running a 12 sec quarter? Lol

O almost forgot...this is going to be a street car though i will take it to the strip once every month or so) so that is one reason I am leaning on a little milder cam and other things to make it more comfortable for daily driving.

Twitch RS

Noone have anything else to say??

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

you dont wanna use stock heads on a built bottom end, specially if you want 500hp, it wont happen. Heads is where the power is at. If you cant afford good heads right now, then start saving. i was on the same boat a lil while ago, same goal i am now going with a similar setup to what was mentioned
350 block 4blt main bored out .030 over
eagle 383 rotating assembly
xr288hr cam
afrs eliminator 195heads
air gap intake
holley 750 db

I would reconsider the 700r4 unless you can afford a professionally built one, or better yet a 6 speed. if not look into a th350 or th400, maybe even a 200r4

The heads mentioned above are about 1500bux for the pair, 65cc aluminum, they are one of the best flowing heads out of the box, and they have a great reputation for making power.

What distributor are you going with?

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

here you go, hope it helps
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-what-cam.html

Twitch RS

no idea on the distributor(Honestly didn't know a stock one from an LG4 wouldn't work)

Man Heads are really expensive I mean I will get some if i absolutly HAVE to but I really wish there was a way around that cause that is some serious bucks when I have everything else to spend money on

Also how much power can a stock 700R4 and T5 handle??

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yeah. "This isn't a Carburetor forum topic."

Twitch RS

Oops sorry bout that thanks for the move

anyway is there really anyway around buying new heads?

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

sure, but you will def. wake up from your 400hp dream, lol. JK

Jokes aside, unfortunally heads is where the power is at. If you read the thread i started you will be able to get an idea of heads. If you stick with stock heads they will be the bottleneck of your setup, unless you can modify aluminum lt1 heads and make them flow really good, or maybe some vortecs.

Think of it this way, you are upgrading your bottom end for alot more cubes and stroke but you are trying to stick with stock heads. If thats the case i would recommend you hold off on the bottom end and get some good heads now

Twitch RS

ok well that makes sense...ok well no problem I will get a new pair

So what are a few different bang for your buck heads?

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

well i'm no pro at heads but from the research ive done and questions ive asked when it comes to heads you kinda get what you pay for. If you are trying to spend the least you can pick up one of those ebay procomp heads, dont expect 400hp out of the box, take it to a machine shop and have them port and polish the fudge out of them.

By that time you could have bought a much better set of heads, ive heard decent stuff about PARTRIOT PERFORMANCE which are also found on ebay, or summit and jeg brand heads are great heads as well. But if you can afford a nice set DO IT.

AFRs are kinda expensive when you first think about it but their quality is superior to any other outta box head. As i mentioned earlier you get what you pay for. AFRs have been proven PLENTY of times. IMHO afrs are the way to go for power. i was on the exact same boat as you are right now, i didnt wanna spend money on heads but i wanted to go all out everywhere else. for example i spent 2k on my t56 swap, you might spend 2.5k on the whole engine and if you go with a nice cam and stay around 10.5:1 with an air gap and the afrs your will probably be right or close to 500 flywheel hp

Twitch RS

OK well I really don't wanna run that high of compression because I want to run on pump gas...I can stand using premium but 10.5:1 is pretty high!

If I get AFR heads would I be able to run that kind of compression on pump gas??
Prolly gonna use KB Hypertectic pistons btw so they are pretty decent at holding compression yet pump gas friendly

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

thats what i'm shooting for and i will be running 93 octane but i'm also going with forged internals. I saw alot of people on here under 11:1 on pump gas w/o problems.

Heslekrants

The AFR heads are the way to go for best power but the Patriot heads (Cast in Australia but machined & assembled in Alabama) can make good power for low $$$.

I've read alot negative about the Pro Comp heads but if you are only looking for 400-450hp the new 210cc alum Pro Comp heads at $635 shipped might not be a bad option.

I bought my 195cc Patriot "Vortec" alum heads from Skip White and I was very pleased with the extra head work & assembly they did. Not your typical slap it together shop.

Here's their add for the new Pro Comp heads.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...mZ270364449581

Here's the 383 I put in my 99 Burb. Int balanced all forged 383, 10:1 pistons, 6"rods, 195cc Patriot "Vortec" alum heads, SS 1.6RR, Com Cams 270H(.534 lift, 215/215@.050, 110LSA)

Twitch RS

Ya I am prolly gonna get the AFRs because of their outstanding quality(Everyone here loves them) so what would be a good let of pistons and such to line up with them? Would like to run maybe a 10:1 compression then if that will work on premium pump gas with no prob

Twitch RS

Also Realized that the title says 400HP 383...my goal is to have that at the wheels just to let everyone know

So do you guys think I can put 400 on the ground with 383 stroker with Edelbrock RPM Performer intake, Holley 650CF Carb, AFR Heads, KB Hypertectic Pistons, Mild Roller Cam and roller rockers, And hooker headers into full 3" Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust?

Will this get me anywhere close?

Heslekrants

400rwhp means 500+hp at motor for that you should go forged pistons & crank. You will also need more than a mild cam or add N2O.

The dyno is very humbling if calibrated right.

The 1st dyno run on my wife's 06 V6 Mustang with only an exhaust upgrade was 470hp. Ran it again with the correct numbers and got 203-206hp over 3 runs.

I haven't dynoed the 383 in my Burb yet but I'll be happy with 300hp.

Twitch RS

well how much power do you think I would put down with that setup?

Heslekrants

Here's something to reference from another forum I'm on.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...oing-dyno.html

The setup:
350 4 bolt main, bored .40, flat top pistons,Cast 194 double hump heads, w/ 64cc combustion chambers, from a 69 327. Holley Systemax Street Performance system,(Lunati cam, 218/218 @.050", 268/268 advertised duration; .457"/.457" lift 110 lobe separation, Weiand alumnium intake), Holley 670 dual line carb, 1 3/4 primarie headders, 3" exhaust from collectors back. Trans is a NP A833 OD unit, (exact same gear ratio as a 700R4), rear gear is a 3.42 with a powertraxx locker, and a 27" tall tire!

His Dyno results:
Numbers are in! I made 3 runs, 1st was 242 hp & 321 torque. 2nd was 244 hp & 320 torque, and 3rd was 240 hp & 314 torque. Those hp numbers aren't what i was looking for, but the torque #'s are pretty good. I have the graphs, and some video that i will post as soon as i can. It was pretty exciting to do, but at the same time a little disapointing. A best of 244 rwhp & 321 lbft torque, its a starting point!

hereinmissoula

not to be rude but you should learn a little more... you seem concerned with things that dont matter all that much.. at this power level pistons are not a huge concern with power production.. just get something decent that others are using. the one's you have chosen should be fine. if you go with a small cam watch your compression.. with bigger cam and alum heads you can go ~10.8 or so, some go 11 but i would stay little low... 10.5 would be fine..

engines are air pumps and heads, intake, headers, carb, cam.. are what is ultimately going to be responsible for your power production and rpm range.. 500 hp in 383 should be a decent sized cam 230ish or above, good set of heads with ~200cc intake ports or better (not too big), rpm intake (or stealth, very similar numbers, very similar) atleast 1 5/8's header and unrestrictive exhaust... throw a 750 holley on it (edelbrocks suck, this is just my opinion but i have never seen a car NOT run harder with a holley, never..) and go... HEI with a 6al box would be good budget igntion, good coil and wires, etc... i think you need alot more research as there is alot of things you are leaving out... just tryin to help..

p.s. a 700r4 will last two days behind this motor.. you can build one but they are $$.. unless you drive on highway grab a th350 and get good basic performance rebuild on it, will be cheap.. th400 not needed here and takes more power to turn..

also if you spend a little more money when building the shortblock, you could get decent rods and forged pistions... when your car is no longer fast enough, you can spray it :-)

hereinmissoula

oh and you WILL need a converter... for what ever trans you pick, spend alittle money here as well as a good converter is well worth the money...

a t-5 wil never last behind that motor, wouldn't with me driving anyway, lol

one launch with sticky tire and BOOM!!!! or grab 3rd to hard, this sucks cause you are allready doing 50-70mph (depeding on rear gear ratio) have done this and split the case... scared the **** out of me.

Twitch RS

Lol thanks man ya I am definatly doing ALOT more research before I actually start building(Won't be able to start till next year since I have to go to basic training and AIT) also I run everything by my dad(built engines for 6 years) and step dad(very skilled mechanic built a 383 before) I know I am leaving out a lot of things but I will get down to them soon enough as of now I am just trying to decide on some big things(motor) I will get to the tranmission soon enough

I am deciding EVERYTHING before ordering ANYTHING and I am making a build sheet with the parts I think I want and then researching each one and looking at alternatives and making sure everything fits everything else

also I found some KB forged pistons at a very resonable price from summit(anyone seen them?)

as for the transmission I really don't know what to do yet it kinda depends on the car I buy to swap the motor into...if I buy an iroc with a t-5 then I will put in a t-56 if I buy one with a 700R4 then I will swap in another automatic that is stronger(will look at them later cause I really dont know what I want)

At this point I am not aiming for huge power but I want to bet set up where I can make more with not alot of work for example: if I have a setup running 400HP on a mild to mid cam and no nitrous or superchager or anything of the sort then I am set up well for substancial gains in the future whereas if I cheap out on some internals just to save some money because they will be "Fine" then I will be in trouble if I want to add nitrous or a supercharger and I will have to change other things

Pretty much the jist of it is that I will have a decent budget to use on this build and I plan of keeping this car a long time so I want to do everything RIGHT that is why I make a big deal out of everything

Thanks for all the advice so far guys

Twitch RS

So what are some other little things that help with low end torque? The focus of this car for me really is the idle to mid range power...top end is nice but I don't need it near as much as I need the low - mid.

Heslekrants

What are your Dad & Step Dad recommending for motor build?

A 400rwhp 383 Camaro should have at least a 2800 stall converter, built tranny, 3.73 or lower gears, posi, frame connectors, suspension upgrades and so on....

Before you build the motor you should decide what you really what out of your car. You are only as good as your weakest link. The more power you get out of a motor the more you have to change on the car to handle it.

If you really want massive power at low rpms go with a 572BBC/Turbo 400.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

You can build a 400HP 383 pretty cheap and easy but I would prefer to overbuild it a little to leave some room to grow later. You will probably want more power later so why not spend a little extra now to allow for more power later. Invest in some good heads, AFR if you can afford it upfront or Dart, canfield etc if you want to invest in some port work later. Build a stout bottom end too, that can handle more power if you decide to make the combo more radical in the future.
I started with a very mild 383 combo that was very street friendly but still ran good at the strip. I would drive this combo on 2 hour trips to various drag strips and make tons of passes and drive home. It ran a best of 12.02 but would normally run 12.2-12.3@113mph on an average day. It was a very reliable low maint combination that was very fun to drive.
10:1 compression
73 010 2 bolt block with splayed caps
eagle forged h-beam rods
Eagle forged crank
JE forged pistons
Dart Pro 1 heads unported straight out of the box
225/230 .525 lift hyd/roller cam
750DP carb
RPM airgap intake manifold
Full length hedman headers
th-350 w/ 3500 stall
moser 12 bolt w/3.73 gears

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Let me rephrase it how you ment it, If i buy an iroc with a t-5 then i will put in a t56, but if i buy one with an automatic transmission I WILL STILL PUT IN a t56.

There is no substitution for a 6 speed, trust me i own one. And the swap from auto to manual isnt bad at all.

With the t56 you dont have to worry about a torque converter but instead a good clutch kit.

Consinder a t56 over an auto. IMO its more fun to drive

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

basic rebuild for 450 ish hp for 700r4 will cost a grand and hold up ok. I ran my basic rebuild for about that power for 3 years or so... 2 on a mild L98 that i abused and 1 season on the 383 with some nitrous runs too and 10 dyno pulls locking the converter up.

Never had a problem even with 500 or so whp thru it. 1-2 shift might have been slipping a touch with the nitrous but i couldnt tell. Sometimes it felt ok but sometimes it was giving me the impression it was straining. I dont know for sure. But i was happy with that trans behind that 400whp n/a 383


IF you want 400 WHP now, you gotta change some things. I'd run forged internals if you can since you'll have to rev this motor up abit, but forged pistons/i-beam rod with good rod bolts and cast crank will do ok, just dont go over 6600rpm too much and dont hit it with nitrous. I feel you will want forged crank and good strong rods for higher rpm and or nitrous shots for over 450whp or so.

RUN close to 11 to 1 compresion. Keep it 10.5-11 to 1. It will be fine on pump gas just dont run a small cam, which you cant do for 400whp anyway. Run AFR 195's.
Cam, i'd go custom grind since its only 50 bucks more for a good roller custom grind. Keep it hydraulic roller, its more streetable at this cam size for 400whp.

My cam was a 230/245 on a 109 and pretty streetable once i tuned it. made 400whp thru the auto. Off the shelf grind, i'd run comp cams 288hr, a 236/242 on a 110 OR run gm's 847 grind... a 232/242 cam. Those will work well in a 383 for 400whp.

Performer rpm may make that power... but might be on the border line of going victor jr. might as well and go 750 cfm carb

Twitch RS

Yes this is exactly what I have been saying I am wanting to do just that

Also my step dad and dad aren't really suggesting anything yet because they are letting me figure up what I want then I am going to show them my theoretical build list and see what they think

When would I be revving this engine to 6600rpm??? I don't plan on doing that lol

I am definatly going afr's

I am also going to get forged internals I found sme forgen KB pistons and they are pretty reasonable anyone seen them?

Why would the victor jr be better than the RPM Air Gap?? Everyone seems to think the air gap is the greatest inake ever lol

Ya the t-56 is what I would really like honestly because I have not got to drive a stick shift very often but I love it when I can(Noone in my family owns a car with a 5 speed except my dad's camaro which is totally busted) My girlfriend drives a 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS its the base model but it has a 5-speed so she lets me drive on occation but other then that I never get to

If I do get a t-56 will I have to build it at all or will it handle all my power and more stock?

I will be posting my theoretical build list soon so you guys can tell me what you think

For all the people who keep asking me what I want to do with this car here it is...again: I want to build this car to be a daily driver if I need it to be or whenever I feel like driving it I plan to take it to the drags maybe a weekend or two every month. I want this car to be streetable, realiable, and fast especially on the low end(from a standing start) I am not trying to break any top speed records

Last but not least...I am not dumb enough to think that I can build a 400HP motor and drop it into a stock 80's camaro without other upgrades...I know this however I am more concerned with the motor right now because that is coming first the suspension will come later

thanks for all the help

hereinmissoula

the air gap is one of the greatest intakes ever!!!!... but when you have an airflow requirment ( a 383 with good flowing heads, and camshaft to match) then you can actually USE the victor jr. for it's intended purpose... the vict. jr. gets a bad rap because people put them on mild small blocks that peak well before 6k and expect them to "make the car faster"

this does not happen, instead the motor falls on it's face in the lower range and has very narrow power band to work with...

if you use this intake on the correct applicatons it is wonderful... honestly you are right at about where i would go vict. jr.

rpm MAY hold average power number still here though.. if you choose a cam over 240@.050 or so i would probably consider... and with good set of heads (as mentioned above, afr's, canfields, brodix, dart, etc...) in the 195 to 210cc range you can actually make the heads shine with a "larger" camshaft... then the vict. jr. would be perfect..

also if you ever plan on spraying.. dual plane intakes are not known for there ability to distribute nitrous very well.. i have seen 75 shot's work ok but problems happen as early as 150shots.. vic. jr. will shine here as well

i would only go vict jr. if you plan on a "larger" camshaft and plan on making more power, or if you ever plan to spray...

jmho

god luck with your build and good luck with basic and ait

Twitch RS

thanks a ton man I will have to closly concider my options between the Air Gap and the Victor Jr.

so my dad keeps talking about reed cams...anyone know anything about those? because I can realy only find them on their own website...summit doesn't even sell them

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Again, if you want 400 at the WHEEELS which is closer to 500 hp on motor, you'll have to rev that 383 up over 6200.

You dont make 400whp at 4500 rpm. If you dont plan on going over 6000 rpm, then why build the motor

You can make 400whp at around 6000-6300 rpm and shift by 6300-6500 which is fine for a daily driver.

My car could have been a dialy driver but it was very aggressive sounding and loud. Reliable and well mannered enough suprisingly considering the specs of the motor.

Twitch RS

ok so I had a long conversation with me step dad and e convinced me to not go so all out on this motor and to not spend near as much money...

So I am lowering my expectations and my BUDGET

about how much power am I going to need to run about a 12 second quarter mile on a street freindly budget build car?

he was telling me about when he and a buddy built a 383 stroker out of mostly traded and junkyard parts they put it in an old buick regal and can consecutive 14's

I want better than that but I would like to keep my budget to about 2 or 3 thousand bucks on the motor