BlackFormula

iTrader: (3)

OK, So the patient is a 92 Camaro RS. Factory 305, 5 speed car.
NO LONGER a 305. I did a motor swap, 350 crate motor (L Engine code, pre-1979). It's the same engine you would have gotten in a 79 Z28.
i cant get a 350 starter to work, the nose cone is entirely too large to fit in the bell housing for the t-5.
So its got a 305 starter from advanced, brand new.
I have bypassed Vats (hot wire from battery to a push button, push button to starter.). I have bypassed the relay on the starter, ran the fusible links from the battery right to the starter, fusible links test good. I have accy and constant power wired to battery but those wires are still going through the relay.
Battery is OK, 650cca
So,
THE PROBLEM
I hit the starter button, and it just clocks. engine rotates, but extremely slow, barely at all.
I took the starter out, it did the same thing on a battery charger.

Took starter to advanced, they put it on their bench tester and it WORKED FINE.

WTF???
Somebody please help

Any help is greatly appreciated! thank you!

* I am uploading a video to my photobucket and youtube (as well as on my facebook) that i made at 1AM this morning. just waiting for it to upload but wanted to get the thread posted.

BlackFormula

iTrader: (3)

VIDEO:

rgarcia63

That it spins on the bench without a load only tells you the starter motor works.
You may already know this:
If the starter mounting bolts are side by side and are the same length then the flexplate ring gear should have 168 teeth, and rear main seal is a 2 piece.

if the bolts are staggered and are not the same length then the flexplate ring gear should have 153 teeth and the block should have a one piece rear main seal.

If the motor is in a bind use 2 fully charged batteries connect them in series to give you 24volts. Disconnect all wiring to the starter to insure the entire electrical system has no connection to the batteries.
For 24 volts connect in the following manner:
Positive of Battery #1 to starter "B terminal, no other wires on this terminal, this is just to turn the motor not start it.
Battery #1 Negative to Battery #2 Positive. Use jumper cables between batteries.
Battery #2 Negative to motor ground.
Connect one side of push button, or remote trigger switch to starter terminal "B", and the other to Starter Terminal "S".
use the push button, or a remote trigger switch to energize the starter. If it does spin, do not hold the button/trigger for more than 3 seconds at a time.
If it spins very faster there is no bind.
If it spins normally then the motor is in a bind, or electrical wiring is bad.

Hope this helps, Raul.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Charger is just that ; a charger;
it does not have the GRUNT ( current output ) required to operate a starter
Not much different than connecting starter to a torch battery

If it operates in the shop but not in your car ; then you have wiring / battery problems not supplying full power to the starter .Start by checking all wiring connections

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Other way around ...In line starter is for 153 tooth 12/1/2" dia flywheel

Not mutually exclusive.
Either style RMS block was available with either type size flexplate ( and the corresponding starter )
Only a 153 tooth FW would fit inside the T5 bellhousing so 153 was used for all 3rd Gens
even though a 168 FW will fit in a T700 bellhousing

BlackFormula

iTrader: (3)

ok so it used to start fine. in the last month and a half it started clicking when i hit the switch.
lately its been clicking more before it even rotates the motor. Motor is not in a bind. i can push start the car, or after a jump from a running car and it runs fine with no misses knocks or nothin. so motor is not binded up. it's a 8.5:1 compression engine with 882 "style" heads and a 4 bolt main crankshaft.
right now the battery has 11.65 volts without a charger on it which i think is jacked up anyways cuz it was on a 10 amp charge for 5 hours and it didnt do anything to the battery at all, same voltage
alternator is new. wiring is all hard wired now with single wires, no crimps in the middle or shorts as i have everything run separate of any factory harness left. the fusible links do have continuity across the fuse as per my multi-meter on "beep" setting.the fusible links are run directly from batt positive to the large terminal on starter as is the alternator.
the small terminal on the starter goes directly to the switch inside the car. The switch has a power wire that goes to the fuse box Batt + terminal as labeled.

Again, starter is for a 92 Camaro RS, 305 , 5 speed (as per factory)
But motor is L code from pre-79