Chevy Camaro 1985 - 1992 Upgrades / Jargon ?
03-22-2015, 02:55 PM
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Chevy Camaro 1985 - 1992 Upgrades / Jargon ?
Update: FIRST OFF, I'm no mechanic but I am very poised to learn about the basics & fundamentals to upgrading & maintaining my soon to be first love, the Chevy Camaro! It's a lot I don't know about certain engines (small block, big block, strokers, kits, etc), transmissions, crate engines, belt systems, intake heights, 12 bolt, chassis, exhausts. I think you get the idea. I'm a new born baby when it comes this mechanic life, but I DO know what I want. Can anyone direct to the pool of knowledge ????
Update 2: I'm going to purchase a used camaro soon, maybe the years between 1985 - 1992, and I want to upgrade it.
Ideal Engine: I want to do a swap or purchase a whole new one. More than likely the car I will buy will have a 305 (I don't even know what that means, I hear they are shitty). I have heard good things about a 383 stroker & fitting, I know there's probably better but I am on a budget. Is it possible to rebuild a 305 to run like new ??? As if it was a stroker or what ? I am lost.
Update 3: I want my car to sound as smooth as possible, also ride as smooth as possible but still sound like a lion in the jungle when I peel off haha.
If anyone is willing to teach me the basics or lead me in the right direction to obtaining the info I am willing to learn.
Also, what does rpm, hp, gm, sbc, LS series mean ?? I'm sorry about the demands, I just want to learn as much as I can to make my new car run the best as it can or even better !! Please help, all answers are appreciated !!!!
Some please pass me the Maro bible haha.
I have so many more demands but I don't wanna go overboard. I just want the best
Update 2: I'm going to purchase a used camaro soon, maybe the years between 1985 - 1992, and I want to upgrade it.
Ideal Engine: I want to do a swap or purchase a whole new one. More than likely the car I will buy will have a 305 (I don't even know what that means, I hear they are shitty). I have heard good things about a 383 stroker & fitting, I know there's probably better but I am on a budget. Is it possible to rebuild a 305 to run like new ??? As if it was a stroker or what ? I am lost.
Update 3: I want my car to sound as smooth as possible, also ride as smooth as possible but still sound like a lion in the jungle when I peel off haha.
If anyone is willing to teach me the basics or lead me in the right direction to obtaining the info I am willing to learn.
Also, what does rpm, hp, gm, sbc, LS series mean ?? I'm sorry about the demands, I just want to learn as much as I can to make my new car run the best as it can or even better !! Please help, all answers are appreciated !!!!
Some please pass me the Maro bible haha.
I have so many more demands but I don't wanna go overboard. I just want the best
03-22-2015, 03:35 PM
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Re: Chevy Camaro 1985 - 1992 Upgrades / Jargon ?
You have reached The Pool Of Knowledge. Sit back and read; don't ask questions so much at first, just absorb what you see.
RPM = revolutions per minute; the rate at which something is spinning
HP = horsepower; the time rate of production of energy (go back to your high school physics class and remember)
GM = General Motors, the mfr of these cars; Camaro & Firebird, while they appear to be different "brands", are actually virtually IDENTICAL under the stickers, as both are (were) part of GM
LS = the new V8 that appeared in 97. LS1 was the first version, 5.7L, just shy of 350 CID, which is where the name for the series came from. Other motors in the series include the LS2, LS3, etc. that have come in Camaro, Vette, GTO, SS, etc. since then; as well as the various versions of 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, and 6.2 in trucks.
Of course you can make a 305 run like new. Don't worry though, it still will get DRILLED by a Kia minivan at a stop light. Of all the motor combinations you could possibly sink money into with utter futility, the 305 is right near the top of the list; possibly exceeded in futility only by 6- and 4-cyl motors. BUT... a car that comes with a 305 is MUCH easier to swap a V8 with LESS of the futility factor into, so even though it itself might be as worthless to you as a bicycle to a fish, often a 305 car is the best possible platform to start out from.
Everybody here is "on a budget". We all know the reason people buy these cars in the first place, is because you can pick em up for next to nothing. We get SO TIRED of getting beat over the head with that "budget" crap, we could just SCREEEEM. Keep that to yourself. We ALL KNOW you want the most results for the least $$$, and that's what we're all always going to tell you; nobody here is going to tell you "go spend twice as much to get half as much results because it's shiny" like the Honduh people do; so DROP IT NOW. On the other hand, there are certain things that just cost what they cost; if your goals include some such thing, it'll cost what it costs; all the P&Ming in the world about "budget" won't lower the cost. Just like, you don't pull into the gas station and P&M all about "I need 10 gallons of gas but all I got is $5" and expect em to let you fill up your tank. Doesn't work that way. At some point, if ya wanna play, ya gotta pay. Gotta be REALISTIC.
No you cannot make a 305 run like a 383.
I walked into a speed shop one time looking for valves back when I was much newer to this hobby. I said "I just want the best". Guy behind the counter (circle track racer, the shop was just his way of supporting his habit) handed me a box of titanium valves that were around $400 for 8. I about s*** myself. Then I changed what I asked for: I told him I wanted the best VALUE for a hot street motor. He handed me a box of swirl-polished undercut stainless valves that were $40 a set of 8. PERFECT. I ran em for near 20 years. Let that be a lesson about the difference between "best", in a vacuum, and "best for my particular purpose".
RPM = revolutions per minute; the rate at which something is spinning
HP = horsepower; the time rate of production of energy (go back to your high school physics class and remember)
GM = General Motors, the mfr of these cars; Camaro & Firebird, while they appear to be different "brands", are actually virtually IDENTICAL under the stickers, as both are (were) part of GM
LS = the new V8 that appeared in 97. LS1 was the first version, 5.7L, just shy of 350 CID, which is where the name for the series came from. Other motors in the series include the LS2, LS3, etc. that have come in Camaro, Vette, GTO, SS, etc. since then; as well as the various versions of 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, and 6.2 in trucks.
Of course you can make a 305 run like new. Don't worry though, it still will get DRILLED by a Kia minivan at a stop light. Of all the motor combinations you could possibly sink money into with utter futility, the 305 is right near the top of the list; possibly exceeded in futility only by 6- and 4-cyl motors. BUT... a car that comes with a 305 is MUCH easier to swap a V8 with LESS of the futility factor into, so even though it itself might be as worthless to you as a bicycle to a fish, often a 305 car is the best possible platform to start out from.
Everybody here is "on a budget". We all know the reason people buy these cars in the first place, is because you can pick em up for next to nothing. We get SO TIRED of getting beat over the head with that "budget" crap, we could just SCREEEEM. Keep that to yourself. We ALL KNOW you want the most results for the least $$$, and that's what we're all always going to tell you; nobody here is going to tell you "go spend twice as much to get half as much results because it's shiny" like the Honduh people do; so DROP IT NOW. On the other hand, there are certain things that just cost what they cost; if your goals include some such thing, it'll cost what it costs; all the P&Ming in the world about "budget" won't lower the cost. Just like, you don't pull into the gas station and P&M all about "I need 10 gallons of gas but all I got is $5" and expect em to let you fill up your tank. Doesn't work that way. At some point, if ya wanna play, ya gotta pay. Gotta be REALISTIC.
No you cannot make a 305 run like a 383.
I walked into a speed shop one time looking for valves back when I was much newer to this hobby. I said "I just want the best". Guy behind the counter (circle track racer, the shop was just his way of supporting his habit) handed me a box of titanium valves that were around $400 for 8. I about s*** myself. Then I changed what I asked for: I told him I wanted the best VALUE for a hot street motor. He handed me a box of swirl-polished undercut stainless valves that were $40 a set of 8. PERFECT. I ran em for near 20 years. Let that be a lesson about the difference between "best", in a vacuum, and "best for my particular purpose".
03-22-2015, 06:04 PM
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Re: Chevy Camaro 1985 - 1992 Upgrades / Jargon ?
You have reached The Pool Of Knowledge. Sit back and read; don't ask questions so much at first, just absorb what you see.
RPM = revolutions per minute; the rate at which something is spinning
HP = horsepower; the time rate of production of energy (go back to your high school physics class and remember)
GM = General Motors, the mfr of these cars; Camaro & Firebird, while they appear to be different "brands", are actually virtually IDENTICAL under the stickers, as both are (were) part of GM
LS = the new V8 that appeared in 97. LS1 was the first version, 5.7L, just shy of 350 CID, which is where the name for the series came from. Other motors in the series include the LS2, LS3, etc. that have come in Camaro, Vette, GTO, SS, etc. since then; as well as the various versions of 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, and 6.2 in trucks.
Of course you can make a 305 run like new. Don't worry though, it still will get DRILLED by a Kia minivan at a stop light. Of all the motor combinations you could possibly sink money into with utter futility, the 305 is right near the top of the list; possibly exceeded in futility only by 6- and 4-cyl motors. BUT... a car that comes with a 305 is MUCH easier to swap a V8 with LESS of the futility factor into, so even though it itself might be as worthless to you as a bicycle to a fish, often a 305 car is the best possible platform to start out from.
Everybody here is "on a budget". We all know the reason people buy these cars in the first place, is because you can pick em up for next to nothing. We get SO TIRED of getting beat over the head with that "budget" crap, we could just SCREEEEM. Keep that to yourself. We ALL KNOW you want the most results for the least $$$, and that's what we're all always going to tell you; nobody here is going to tell you "go spend twice as much to get half as much results because it's shiny" like the Honduh people do; so DROP IT NOW. On the other hand, there are certain things that just cost what they cost; if your goals include some such thing, it'll cost what it costs; all the P&Ming in the world about "budget" won't lower the cost. Just like, you don't pull into the gas station and P&M all about "I need 10 gallons of gas but all I got is $5" and expect em to let you fill up your tank. Doesn't work that way. At some point, if ya wanna play, ya gotta pay. Gotta be REALISTIC.
No you cannot make a 305 run like a 383.
I walked into a speed shop one time looking for valves back when I was much newer to this hobby. I said "I just want the best". Guy behind the counter (circle track racer, the shop was just his way of supporting his habit) handed me a box of titanium valves that were around $400 for 8. I about s*** myself. Then I changed what I asked for: I told him I wanted the best VALUE for a hot street motor. He handed me a box of swirl-polished undercut stainless valves that were $40 a set of 8. PERFECT. I ran em for near 20 years. Let that be a lesson about the difference between "best", in a vacuum, and "best for my particular purpose".
RPM = revolutions per minute; the rate at which something is spinning
HP = horsepower; the time rate of production of energy (go back to your high school physics class and remember)
GM = General Motors, the mfr of these cars; Camaro & Firebird, while they appear to be different "brands", are actually virtually IDENTICAL under the stickers, as both are (were) part of GM
LS = the new V8 that appeared in 97. LS1 was the first version, 5.7L, just shy of 350 CID, which is where the name for the series came from. Other motors in the series include the LS2, LS3, etc. that have come in Camaro, Vette, GTO, SS, etc. since then; as well as the various versions of 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, and 6.2 in trucks.
Of course you can make a 305 run like new. Don't worry though, it still will get DRILLED by a Kia minivan at a stop light. Of all the motor combinations you could possibly sink money into with utter futility, the 305 is right near the top of the list; possibly exceeded in futility only by 6- and 4-cyl motors. BUT... a car that comes with a 305 is MUCH easier to swap a V8 with LESS of the futility factor into, so even though it itself might be as worthless to you as a bicycle to a fish, often a 305 car is the best possible platform to start out from.
Everybody here is "on a budget". We all know the reason people buy these cars in the first place, is because you can pick em up for next to nothing. We get SO TIRED of getting beat over the head with that "budget" crap, we could just SCREEEEM. Keep that to yourself. We ALL KNOW you want the most results for the least $$$, and that's what we're all always going to tell you; nobody here is going to tell you "go spend twice as much to get half as much results because it's shiny" like the Honduh people do; so DROP IT NOW. On the other hand, there are certain things that just cost what they cost; if your goals include some such thing, it'll cost what it costs; all the P&Ming in the world about "budget" won't lower the cost. Just like, you don't pull into the gas station and P&M all about "I need 10 gallons of gas but all I got is $5" and expect em to let you fill up your tank. Doesn't work that way. At some point, if ya wanna play, ya gotta pay. Gotta be REALISTIC.
No you cannot make a 305 run like a 383.
I walked into a speed shop one time looking for valves back when I was much newer to this hobby. I said "I just want the best". Guy behind the counter (circle track racer, the shop was just his way of supporting his habit) handed me a box of titanium valves that were around $400 for 8. I about s*** myself. Then I changed what I asked for: I told him I wanted the best VALUE for a hot street motor. He handed me a box of swirl-polished undercut stainless valves that were $40 a set of 8. PERFECT. I ran em for near 20 years. Let that be a lesson about the difference between "best", in a vacuum, and "best for my particular purpose".
Well spoken. On this journey, where do you recommend me to start first ? What part under the hood should I start upgrading?
03-22-2015, 06:20 PM
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Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: Chevy Camaro 1985 - 1992 Upgrades / Jargon ?
Exhaust system 1st... It's a major choke point even with the stock 305 engines.
Add 1-5/8" tube headers, mandrel bent Y pipe, high flow cat converter and good aftermarket cat back system
Oh 305 BTW means 305 cubic inches displacement (C.I.D).. Meaning for each full 360* turn of the crankshaft the engine moves 305 cubic inches worth of air.
350 moves 350 cid worth of air, 383 moves 383 cid of air..
Engines are air pumps, more air you move through it the higher horsepower it will make
Add 1-5/8" tube headers, mandrel bent Y pipe, high flow cat converter and good aftermarket cat back system
Oh 305 BTW means 305 cubic inches displacement (C.I.D).. Meaning for each full 360* turn of the crankshaft the engine moves 305 cubic inches worth of air.
350 moves 350 cid worth of air, 383 moves 383 cid of air..
Engines are air pumps, more air you move through it the higher horsepower it will make
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