help with my new locks
#1
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Car: 84 Trans Am
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help with my new locks
howdy fellas,
well i got my new set of door lock cylinders and hatch lock from Year One (29.99 for all 3, with keys of course). how do install the lock clyinders and repair a door handle that does't work? i have never done anything like this before. i know i will ahve to take the door panel off, but that is about it. any tips, detailed instructions or anything would be great. thanks for you help guys.
well i got my new set of door lock cylinders and hatch lock from Year One (29.99 for all 3, with keys of course). how do install the lock clyinders and repair a door handle that does't work? i have never done anything like this before. i know i will ahve to take the door panel off, but that is about it. any tips, detailed instructions or anything would be great. thanks for you help guys.
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Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
Sure no problem
Pull the inner door panels:
- undo the three torx screws holding you arm rest on.
- my door has the lower cup holder so it would remove in similar fashion.
- if you have rollups then you'll have to push out the U-clip holding the window roller, the arm then pulls off.
- the inner door panel itself is attached via 12-13 pressure fit clips. They are plastic (yellowish colour) and I usually use screw drivers on either side of each fasterner (sliding them between the panel and the metal door frame) pulling the panel outwards to release the clips. Be GENTLE with this part or you will damage stuff. Some clips will pull using just your hands on the inner panel.
- there is a screw or two in the door handle area, remove these.
- once the clips are off you will have to lift the panel upwards and press the top rocker downwards and outwards (the black piece you rest your arm on when the window is open) as there are some permanent locking clips on this piece (they don't come off). This can take awhile to get -- that rocker is not designed to come off easilty. You are approaching the tricky part. When the panel finally comes loose from the pressure clips and the rocker DO NOT LIFT it away more than enough to expose the inside of the door handle ! This is because the linkage to the door handle is still attached and trust me this piece (the plastic attachment area for the inside door handle slider lock) breaks VERY easily. Now that the door handle is exposed you can see the door lock linkage bar that must be dissassembled -- pull the bar away from the lock slider in the door handle area of the panel you just removed (visually explanatory when you see it you'll know what has to be done).
- You can now pull the inside door panel away and park it someplace safe.
- pull back the plastic weather guard sandwiched between the interior panel (just removed) and the metal door frame. Be careful as you don't want to mess this stuff up -- I usually apply gasket goop liberally to the plastic to reseal it when I put it all back together.
- the lock area you are looking for is now exposed, there is about a 6-8 inch diameter area you can work in that contains the entire door latch and lock mechanisms.
- the lock cylinder linkage has to be removed and there is a black U-clip holding the cylinder in place. A visual inspection of the area will make it pretty obvious what has to be done.
The job is tedious and getting the inner door panels off is about the worst of it. Re-installing can take even more time as it gets to be a bit of a juggling act keeping the door lock slider in place (to inner door handle) along with power window, lock and mirror plugs (if you have these) in place. Be prepared to burn some time on this.
I pulled mine apart to inspect the inner doors, service the power window motor and grease runners. Threw in some extra sound deadener and resealed the weather stuff. It took me about 1 to 1.5 hours per door.
Hope this helps.
RP.
- undo the three torx screws holding you arm rest on.
- my door has the lower cup holder so it would remove in similar fashion.
- if you have rollups then you'll have to push out the U-clip holding the window roller, the arm then pulls off.
- the inner door panel itself is attached via 12-13 pressure fit clips. They are plastic (yellowish colour) and I usually use screw drivers on either side of each fasterner (sliding them between the panel and the metal door frame) pulling the panel outwards to release the clips. Be GENTLE with this part or you will damage stuff. Some clips will pull using just your hands on the inner panel.
- there is a screw or two in the door handle area, remove these.
- once the clips are off you will have to lift the panel upwards and press the top rocker downwards and outwards (the black piece you rest your arm on when the window is open) as there are some permanent locking clips on this piece (they don't come off). This can take awhile to get -- that rocker is not designed to come off easilty. You are approaching the tricky part. When the panel finally comes loose from the pressure clips and the rocker DO NOT LIFT it away more than enough to expose the inside of the door handle ! This is because the linkage to the door handle is still attached and trust me this piece (the plastic attachment area for the inside door handle slider lock) breaks VERY easily. Now that the door handle is exposed you can see the door lock linkage bar that must be dissassembled -- pull the bar away from the lock slider in the door handle area of the panel you just removed (visually explanatory when you see it you'll know what has to be done).
- You can now pull the inside door panel away and park it someplace safe.
- pull back the plastic weather guard sandwiched between the interior panel (just removed) and the metal door frame. Be careful as you don't want to mess this stuff up -- I usually apply gasket goop liberally to the plastic to reseal it when I put it all back together.
- the lock area you are looking for is now exposed, there is about a 6-8 inch diameter area you can work in that contains the entire door latch and lock mechanisms.
- the lock cylinder linkage has to be removed and there is a black U-clip holding the cylinder in place. A visual inspection of the area will make it pretty obvious what has to be done.
The job is tedious and getting the inner door panels off is about the worst of it. Re-installing can take even more time as it gets to be a bit of a juggling act keeping the door lock slider in place (to inner door handle) along with power window, lock and mirror plugs (if you have these) in place. Be prepared to burn some time on this.
I pulled mine apart to inspect the inner doors, service the power window motor and grease runners. Threw in some extra sound deadener and resealed the weather stuff. It took me about 1 to 1.5 hours per door.
Hope this helps.
RP.
#3
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Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
Re: help with my new locks
Originally posted by darbleinad
howdy fellas,
well i got my new set of door lock cylinders and hatch lock from Year One (29.99 for all 3, with keys of course). how do install the lock clyinders and repair a door handle that does't work? i have never done anything like this before. i know i will ahve to take the door panel off, but that is about it. any tips, detailed instructions or anything would be great. thanks for you help guys.
howdy fellas,
well i got my new set of door lock cylinders and hatch lock from Year One (29.99 for all 3, with keys of course). how do install the lock clyinders and repair a door handle that does't work? i have never done anything like this before. i know i will ahve to take the door panel off, but that is about it. any tips, detailed instructions or anything would be great. thanks for you help guys.
The rear lock is really straight forward providing you don't have a power latch. Inspect the rear cargo area and it will be obvious to you what has to be done. Took me about about 1-2 hrs last time I was in that place. Just re & re time -- no brain work on that one.
good luck,
RP.
#4
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Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
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Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
As a reference guide, you can pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car,from Canadian Tire or Parts Source that has the complete instructions on how to remove the door handles, locks, panels...etc. It's always good to have a reference manual, anyways. They cover almost every detail of your car.
#5
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Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
wow, thanks for all the help guys. palric, that was a great list. that is going to be very helpful. i am hoping to tackle the door lock on sunday and the hatch lock today. i picked up some door panel clips at the swap meet in ancaster, just in case i break some. i figured the taking the door panel off would be the trickiest, but it sounds even harder than i excepted. if anyone has any more tips/info, feel free to post it. thanks again guys, its much appreciated.
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