327_TPI_77_Maro

iTrader: (8)

Hi guys, what needs to be done to an LT-1 intake to make it directly fit a TPI, WITHOUT having the mess of remote thermostat and such. I'll need to locate the distributor hole, drill it, and machine a flat gasket surface (easy w/ my shop access). Is there anything else that has to be done to the LT1 intake to prep for TPI (obviously I need the LT1 injector rails & pressure regulator). I would also like to add a thermostat housing integral to the LT1. I have access to a bridgeport w/ programmable control, so this won't be a big deal. Does the LT1 intake flow coolant through the front like a TPI intake, such that I can machine a location for the thermostat & water neck and be good to go? If all I have to do is add the dist hole & surface and water neck & surface I can have a $50 LT1 manifold on my TPI w/ no additional cost. That would really complement my high revving, big valved 327.

Thanks!

cubfanbudman

This explains quite a bit. Do have to use the remote thermostat though. I hadn't really thought much about using this until I re-read the article. How much cam are you using? I wonder how much HP this will support

lt-1 intake for sb

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

There isn't a way to run a LT1 intake on a SBC without a remote thermostat housing. Well, if you didn't run a thermostat you could get away without a housing but you still need to install the coolant fittings/hoses on the intake to get the hot coolant from the heads back to the radiator.

The LT1 intake is a dry intake in stock form. There is no coolant floing through it by GM design.

Even if you converted a set of LT1 heads and intake to use on your SBC you will still have to use a remote thermostat.

What you're asking for is a Miniram intake.

327_TPI_77_Maro

iTrader: (8)

Ah, I knew there was a reason everyone was complaining about using a remote thermostat -- it is, unfortunately, a dry intake. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh. I don't know what the specs are on my cam, but I'm pulling 10-11" vac at 750 rpm idle with the engine warm. The cam is a crane flat tappet hydraulic, which gives quite the choppy idle. I have 2.02/1.7 valved 60s double hump heads, which is why I want to go with the LT1 intake once I am set up to burn my own chips. I may get another pair of stock TPI runners, cut and weld so I have fully siamesed oval runners before I go with the LT1. Sounds like the LT1 swap is going to be quite an additional cost and pain in the ^%#. Thanks for the info guys.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Its really not that bad.

The advantages of the LT1 intake being dry are that #1, the intake air temp should be slightly reduced as there is no hot coolant flowing through it as with other SBC intakes. Shouldn't make much of a difference, but I bet its good for a few degrees, and the other benefit is that it reduces the possibility of a coolant leak because of an intake gasket.

For SD guys, it already has a MAP sensor built into it.

The downsides to it are that it does require some work and the intake in stock form leaves much to be desired in terms of casting design. The ports need to be opened up to match the gasket quite a bit (if you are into gasket matching at all).

The intake itself looks really good too when painted black with the fins on top polished

89Formula5.7

I painted the intake and remote t-stat housing the same color as my car. And polished the fins too. Looks great.