TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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119 mph ...holy crap! That's easily good for mid 11's.
Did you feel a difference with the high-flow lid?
Do yourself a favor and just fix the throttle body and make another pass before you install a bigger MAF. You're going to have quite a bit of tweaking in the PROM to get that bigger MAF to act right.
What happened on that run compared to the other runs? 119 is a HUGE difference in 108-112 and even 116.
If that is infact a true mph for that car, then you have the power to go 11's. I'm just shocked its not if its getting 60's that good. 1/8 mile mph/et is down from where an 11 second car should be tho. Should be in the 90's mph in the 1/8 if your trapping 116+. Gaining 31 out the back door is quite impressive and not normal from most cars i've seen
Yeah the mph seems to show that somthing was changing during those high mph runs. Maybe you stomped the gas harder to open the tb up more or had a head/tail wind on some runs. I've never seen a car pick up that kind of mph with no changes during the runs, but NOS in third gear! lol
yeah thats what I thought. And its running NA, and will probably stay that way. I was thinking that sometimes the throttle body was opening up more sometimes than others, that is why I have to make a better bracket for it.
How bad is converter slip? maybe its blowing through it abit?
Either way I agree, the 1/8 mile vs 1/4 mile stats just dont seem right.
One run you have 91 mph in the 1/8 which is moving pretty good and only hit 108. Came out the hole great then top half shut down alot.
Far right 2 runs you have similar 1/8 mile, similar 1000 and then somewhat similar 1/4 mile ET's but the MPH are 6 different. First run is comparable to these, just with a bad 60 foot, but the 1/4 mph is closer matched to the 119mph run. Sounds like the power is there just something is cutting out on the car whether its slippage or throttle body issues still
Need to get that TB fixed and re-run with 100% for sure WOT. And back it up with several passes
this is why you need to datalog your runs in a notebook. Is your launch sequence exactly the same? Are you deep staging some times and sitting shallow on others? Did you get out of the groove?
Im looking for any inconsistencies. I agree with the others that either your converter is causing problems or its in the TB. Have someone videotape your runs too its very informative.
Is your converter an off the shelf piece, or is it something you ordered from a company that was built to spec? I know for a fact that several people had problems with off the shelf converters being inconsistent by 3-400rpms.
I had a Yank converter in my last car and it was sent back and forth before it was exactly what was needed
Just found out the problem with my car. The o ring on the fuel pump was not there and was leaking pressure I guess. I was getting only 35 psi to the fuel filter. I put in a new walbro pump with the o ring and it jumped up to mid to upper 40's. I am working on tuning it, because before it started to run real lean above 3000. I am taking it to the dyno tomorrow and hopefully racing it on either saturday or sunday. Hopefully I will get that 11 second timeslip this time. I will keep everyone updated
So some of those runs it must have had pressure and you trapped well, then bleed off other runs. But did you notice it going lean at the track on the higher mph runs?
didn't go racing last weekend, but did go to the dyno. Here is the graph. I am hoping that I can go one more time before the season is over
__________________ 383 Forged Stroker. Splayed 2 bolt mains, TPIS Miniram, ZZ409, Probuilt 700r4, Dart 200cc 2.05/1.60 Alum Heads, 3500 Stall, 12 bolt 3.90, Dyno Dons Headers and Y, All new Spohn suspension and crossmember torque arm. relocated battery, 3 inch cutout, custom 4 inch custom airbox by 1bad91z , working on cervinis cowl hood! 11.72 at 115.90 with 1.53 60ft
I agree with Orr. Eleven second runs are in your future if you can hook up. Interesting that you are making the power with Dyno Don short tube headers. They do not seem to be hurting a thing. My experience also.
That's a pretty good dyno run Joe. With your power you should be mid to low 11s when you dail in your driving tech. I myself really didn't think you gain or loose much with long tubes vs shorties at 500 and lower hp levels. I always focused on the collectors sizes/lengths and the header back system. I have shorties on my 88' and it makes plenty of power, I just tuned the collectors for my motor setup and it works fine for me.
thats what I have been saying for years. Instead of losing some ground clearance and many headaches with long tube headers, I always recommend using a good set of shorty headers. You may lose a very small amount of power, but they are worth it.
A 58mm won't hurt a thing. It will either do nothing or add power. This of course may depend on how well your cold air intake flows.
You ran a monoblade right and it didnt hurt anything? May not show anything problems on a dyno and infact increase power, but what about the street? Is there hesitation or lack of power feel with larger air flow (lower velocity) from the throttle body?
No problem at all running my mono-blade on the street. However like my daughter said "when you give it the gas something happens". You just adjust and get used to it like anything else.
was digging in my file cabinet and found this. This is what my car put down before I did anything to it. It had a mini ram, zz9 cam, edelbrock heads, and a 3 inch edelbrock catback, along with edelbrock shorties and y pipe. The only part that is still on there is the mini ram and the catback
just went out today, nice and 50 degree day. First few passes I was hitting off the rev limiter, I adjusted it and then started running low 11.70's here are a few of the passes. My best of the day was 11.722. I also had a 1.51 60ft but can't find that slip.
time for a tranny rebuild, i think? 
