V6Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.
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Not that it matters because by the looks of it you're pretty much done, but soaking your bits in oil keeps them from getting coated with aluminum. What kind of power are you looking to get out of it? You said you'd be wrapping it up to 7k so... 250-275hp maybe?
I'm looking for 250hp minimum N/A, and my goal is to be over 500hp after the boost is back on.
Now this is how the inside of runners should look like!!!
The block is on it's way finally, it will be here Thursday. I hope to have the porting done by the end of next week, and then on to rebuilding the 3.1 and 3.4.
The block is on it's way finally, it will be here Thursday. I hope to have the porting done by the end of next week, and then on to rebuilding the 3.1 and 3.4.
Hoooray! I think my motor is about to crap out on me.
That looks good. Are you going to leave the ports in the heads rough?
The injectors spray on the back of the valves in the gen3's, so I'll probably leave it at 80 grit. The chambers are getting polished, though, and possably a ceramic coat.
Quote:
Hoooray! I think my motor is about to crap out on me.
They look great BTW.
Soon you will have a replacement waiting for you .
Soon you will have a replacement waiting for you .
Now I just got to figure out a good weekend to put it in. Maybe Thanksgiving, I'll have a couple of extra days. Let me know when you got it done so I can send you the cam to put it in.
Finally got the 3.4 block today Hard to believe this lil tiny thing is going to make the power I'm expecting out of it
Walls look just as good asa the ones in my 89k 3.1, but this one has 120k on it. We will se how the bottom looks soon enough, more updates comming soon.
firstfirebird, I don't know how else to tell you this...but you better sit down first...
Aight, I'm just going to dump it on you...please try to stay calm, but someone took your old block and replaced it with a better, cleaner one...I'm so sorry, man. If you don't want it, I understand; and I'll take it.
Anyway, it's looking good! How are the heads doing?
Haven't started the heads yet. The block is at the shop, the top end is in the garage here, so I just try and work on whatever I can when I can. The LIM is almost finished, UIM is finished (might polish the TB port, though), and the heads are next. Then it's time to tare into the shortblock for new bearings, rings, oil pump, cam, lifters etc. Then painting the engine and bay. I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel!
The last pics is the same block unassembled, just cleaned the pistons and gasket surfaces. If I weren't going for big HP with this motor, it would go in the car as is (with main and rod bearing inspection, of course) .
Aight, I'm just going to dump it on you...please try to stay calm, but someone took your old block and replaced it with a better, cleaner one...I'm so sorry, man. If you don't want it, I understand; and I'll take it.
Looks really good. So this engine might not even get the turbos?
Might not, we'll see. Been shopping for turbo parts and the right deal just hasn't come along yet.
Still if I had found this local wrecking yard sooner, I could have gotten a tubular k and a 3500 for the same price I paid for my 3500 top and and 3.4 block.
You wil have some more packeages comming to you this week then you can race me with your turbo while I'm N/A
Clevite 77 bearings and a .010" under reman crank...
Just got to get rings, cam, cam bearings, and an appropriate sized hone, then it's time to assemble!!!
Just out of curiosity, what was wrong with the crank in the 3.4 you got?
It needed to be polished, some minor scratches in it. This crank was for a rebuild I was getting ready to do for someone else and they decided to go with a different engine. Since this crank is in better shape, I decided to use it, specially since it has the reluctor wheel on it. Didn't know it had the reluctor until I opened the package today :P
Bought it used (never installed) from another member here. He bought it to rebuild his 3.1 and went with a V8 instead.
Didn't end up changing the shape, just gasket matched and blended it back. Then sanded everything to 100 grit on the intake and 180 on the exhaust.
I think I might build a flow bench at the shop and play around with some heads to see what else can be done, Ben won't show any pics of his porting - so gonna have to experiment myself.
Man I have to start working on my heads soon, hopefully I'll be able to start next week, once I get my work bench set up in the garage. I'll have an actual area to work on.
Man I have to start working on my heads soon, hopefully I'll be able to start next week, once I get my work bench set up in the garage. I'll have an actual area to work on.
I just hope they will be OK. My tool touched the edge of the gasket surface, it barely touches the fire ring and shouldn't cause any sealing issues, but I just took all this time to get the chamber bowls nice and shiney - only to have a mark in the flat area of it
Agh, I hate it when I scratch up sealing surfaces. Have you tried using the foam buffing wheels dremel makes? They polish up really well and leave a good texture.
Agh, I hate it when I scratch up sealing surfaces. Have you tried using the foam buffing wheels dremel makes? They polish up really well and leave a good texture.
That's what I used to get the final texture on the chambers .
I'm not overly concerned because it's inside the combustion ring. That spot will get just a little hotter than the rest of the chamber. Again, it's just that being a perfectionist makes something like that much more annoying
Worked on my engine finally for a little bit today instead of everyone else's, lol. Got another 3500 comming in tomorrow, and will be dissasembling/cleaning all day.
Got the cam bearings out...
And honed the cylinders...
Now I got to order the rings (hopefully tonight after the kids are in bed), and maybe this week the crank, cam bearings and oil pump will go in.
Coil bind is .5613", we will see if .525" lift will cause any problems
Couldn't resist a good deal. Got these for $100. Now I have to spend more money for the adapting studs ($90), but gain adjustability and full roller rocker arms. The 3500's have non-adjustable roller-fulcrum and are steel...
Last edited by firstfirebird; 01-17-2008 at 06:44 PM.
awsome build DooD, just wondered as your starting from scratch and going real racey why you didnt get the crank knife edged? that would be sweeeeeeet !