Major Power First thing in the morning?
08-19-2001, 04:08 PM
#1
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Location: Memphis, Tn
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Car: 92' RS
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Major Power First thing in the morning?
For the first 10 mins. my car is started in the morning on my way to work i have some unknown power.Plus my RPM's stay at 1700 automatic 2.8...but from 0 when i punch it its does nothing but spin and thats with 215/70-r16's on the back...but when it warms up i lose al that "unknown" power...what is it and is there anyway i can keep that like that all day long.....
08-19-2001, 05:29 PM
#2
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Yea, all engines do it..There reallly cold and as we all know , cold air makes power, same thing goes here. The cold engine makes power.. btw, when i 1/4 i do that, trailer it there and push it to the lanes fire it up at the line and kick some *** ...
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Slowly getting slower 1989 Firebird.. modded heavily for a v6
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
#3 Forever
My Site:
Click Here to see my car!
------------------
Slowly getting slower 1989 Firebird.. modded heavily for a v6
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
#3 Forever
My Site:
Click Here to see my car!
08-20-2001, 11:13 AM
#3
Member
You didn't mention what year your car is but some (87,88 for example) came with Cold Start Valves that added extra fuel during initial start ups. It will turn off once the computer has sensed the correct temp. In addition, your O2 sensor goes into closed loop at the same time and makes corrections to the air/fuel ratio to optomize the mixture. These 2 functions play a major part as to how the car reacts initialy when first started.
[This message has been edited by x55Cam (edited August 20, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by x55Cam (edited August 20, 2001).]
08-21-2001, 11:17 AM
#6
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You said you had an automatic? The TCC solenoid won't engage until certain conditions are met; one of them being a "warm engine". With an unlocked TCC, your RPM's will be higher in 3rd & 4th gear.
Simple test: The TCC unlocks when the brake pedal is pressed. In the morning, when your car's feeling "zippy", and at the 1700 rpms you mention, keep your right foot steady on the gas, and tap the brake with your left foot- just enough to turn on the brake lights, but not enough to slow the car down. If your TCC's in lockup, it will unlock- and your RPM's will raise. If your RPM's stay constant, that means your TCC is unlocked. After your 10 minutes of driving, when your car feels "normal" again, do the same trick- if your RPM's drop, that means the TCC was engaged.
And yeah, take it easy on the car! Let it warm up... you don't jump out of bed and run around the block, your car shouldn't, either.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
Simple test: The TCC unlocks when the brake pedal is pressed. In the morning, when your car's feeling "zippy", and at the 1700 rpms you mention, keep your right foot steady on the gas, and tap the brake with your left foot- just enough to turn on the brake lights, but not enough to slow the car down. If your TCC's in lockup, it will unlock- and your RPM's will raise. If your RPM's stay constant, that means your TCC is unlocked. After your 10 minutes of driving, when your car feels "normal" again, do the same trick- if your RPM's drop, that means the TCC was engaged.
And yeah, take it easy on the car! Let it warm up... you don't jump out of bed and run around the block, your car shouldn't, either.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
08-21-2001, 12:32 PM
#7
Member
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by IROC5.7TPI:
Theres this theory called "thermal efficiency".
You V6 guys couldn't comprehend the laws of friction.
</font>
Theres this theory called "thermal efficiency".
You V6 guys couldn't comprehend the laws of friction.
</font>
If you think this is related to friction, go comprehend on some other board.
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08-22-2001, 03:06 AM
#8
Supreme Member
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by IROC5.7TPI:
Theres this theory called "thermal efficiency".
You V6 guys couldn't comprehend the laws of friction.
</font>
Theres this theory called "thermal efficiency".
You V6 guys couldn't comprehend the laws of friction.
</font>
Sorry guys, he must've heard something about "thermal efficiency" on yesterday's Jeopardy episode.
[This message has been edited by Ovrclck350 (edited August 22, 2001).]
08-22-2001, 03:09 AM
#9
Member
damn IROC5.7TPI, i think you just got bitch slapped so hard you thoguht OvrClck was your pimp or something...
------------------
1988 Camaro
2.8 with T5
K&N
Soon to be CAI or Ram Air...
http://www.nothingssafe.com
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1988 Camaro
2.8 with T5
K&N
Soon to be CAI or Ram Air...
http://www.nothingssafe.com
08-22-2001, 03:11 AM
#10
Supreme Member
BTW, I was going to type it all in for you, but I'm tired, so here's the exact reason why cold air gives more power.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Vader:
85,
From my recollection, the ideal conditions for an internal combustion engine to make power are at 57°F, 35-45% RH, and at sea level or lower (a high barometer of 30.00" Hg or better).
The colder air is more dense, but is not so cold that it doesn't allow good fuel atomization. The moderate relative humidity is low enough not to displace air or fuel molecules in the intake charge, but enough to help combustion chamber cooling and efficient combustion and heat transfer of the combustion gasses. The lower altitude/higher barometer increases air density further, allowing better cylinder charging.
Unfortunately, as temperatures decrease to the point where the engines like it, the tires begin to complain by losing some traction due to hardening of the rubber compounds.
If you were running on a still-warm track with hot tires and a nice, cool engine and air temperature, a half-second drop in ET is not only realistic, but should be expected. The best runs are usually made in the early evenings because of these same factors.
</font>
85,
From my recollection, the ideal conditions for an internal combustion engine to make power are at 57°F, 35-45% RH, and at sea level or lower (a high barometer of 30.00" Hg or better).
The colder air is more dense, but is not so cold that it doesn't allow good fuel atomization. The moderate relative humidity is low enough not to displace air or fuel molecules in the intake charge, but enough to help combustion chamber cooling and efficient combustion and heat transfer of the combustion gasses. The lower altitude/higher barometer increases air density further, allowing better cylinder charging.
Unfortunately, as temperatures decrease to the point where the engines like it, the tires begin to complain by losing some traction due to hardening of the rubber compounds.
If you were running on a still-warm track with hot tires and a nice, cool engine and air temperature, a half-second drop in ET is not only realistic, but should be expected. The best runs are usually made in the early evenings because of these same factors.
</font>
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