Roller Cams ????
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Parma Hts., Ohio
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: Superramed 406
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3:73
Roller Cams ????
Are roller cams worth $$$ over regular hydralic cams? Considering the price for the cam and roller lifters. Im building a chevy 400 TPI engine.
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85 TA 305 Tpi
I mostly Lurk around
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85 TA 305 Tpi
I mostly Lurk around
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
If you are looking for a "true" roller cam, then go with Lunati, Comp Cams, or Crane (in that order). The real benefit with rollers is the increased ramp angle. This allows the valves to initially lift much faster, hold a higher lift during the duration period, and of course the rollers reduce friction which frees up HP and wear. With a TPI engine, a roller cam would work great because the steeper ramp design is great for building low to mid range torque. We all know that is what TPI is designed for, so they work great together. I myself have a TBI 305 that has a factory roller cam, but the ramp angle is not much steeper than a hyd. cam. With factory TBI you can't get too agressive with out first doing mods to it, or getting a hi-flow TBI setup, custom chip, etc.
The biggest thing that you have to watch out for is some cam companies make a less expensive roller cam that will use the factory lifters, (Crane is one of them) but those cams aren't much better than a hyd. All they do is take out the taper in the lobes of a hyd. cam for the roller lifters. The angle is not much steeper than a hyd. cam, if at all.
It all depends really on your wallet. I am building a 355 for my car and I went hyd. just 'cause I bought a inexpensive kit that came with it. Later on I will probably change to a roller cam. But then again, the engine ain't built yet.
HEHE!! If you want that really cool lump-lump idle, then go with a solid roller set up,
just be ready to adjust valve lash every 1-2K miles.
------------------
92 RS w/t-tops 305 TBI Auto.
170K miles and don't burn a drop o'oil
-K&N Truck filter #1500 w, open ele.
air cleaner
-Dynomax 2 1/2" cat-back
-B&M TransPak
-Jet Stage2 Chip
-180* T-Stat w/ 185* Fan Switch
-JVC CD--Alpine speakers & 4ch. amp
Rockford 2ch. to 2 MTX 12" subs
The biggest thing that you have to watch out for is some cam companies make a less expensive roller cam that will use the factory lifters, (Crane is one of them) but those cams aren't much better than a hyd. All they do is take out the taper in the lobes of a hyd. cam for the roller lifters. The angle is not much steeper than a hyd. cam, if at all.
It all depends really on your wallet. I am building a 355 for my car and I went hyd. just 'cause I bought a inexpensive kit that came with it. Later on I will probably change to a roller cam. But then again, the engine ain't built yet.
HEHE!! If you want that really cool lump-lump idle, then go with a solid roller set up,
just be ready to adjust valve lash every 1-2K miles.------------------
92 RS w/t-tops 305 TBI Auto.
170K miles and don't burn a drop o'oil
-K&N Truck filter #1500 w, open ele.
air cleaner
-Dynomax 2 1/2" cat-back
-B&M TransPak
-Jet Stage2 Chip
-180* T-Stat w/ 185* Fan Switch
-JVC CD--Alpine speakers & 4ch. amp
Rockford 2ch. to 2 MTX 12" subs
You could use an LT4 cam or USE an LT4 Hot Cam. LT4 hot Cam has Nice lift/duration (.492"/.492" lift with 1.5 rockers and 218/228deg .050" duration) numbers and pretty inexpensive, too. but, you're gonna have to upgrade your springs/retainers/locks and possibly need to machine down the valve guides where the seals sit to prevent interference between the seals and the valve spring retainers.
I think your question is totally dependant on what you’re after. If you are looking for the most performance out of your motor, than yes it is worth it. If you take two cams of the same spec’s with the only difference being that one is a roller and the other is flat tappet, you will generally get a 15-20 hp gain with the roller.
The gains are from lack of frictional loss due to the rollers on the lifters and rollers generally have a more aggressive ramp, allowing for faster valve opening, longer time spent open at peak lift due to the wider area at the top of the lobe and faster valve closing (take a look at a roller cam and you will notice a more rounder nose vs. a flat tappet’s more pointed nose).
Roller cams and lifters can be re-used unlike flat tappet cams that wear down due to its design. Roller cams produce more vacuum at idle as apposed to a similar designed flat tappet, thus giving you better idle quality.
Also note though that even though a roller cam and a flat tappet cam may have the same advanced duration, duration @ .050” and LSA spec’s, roller cam will usually have more lift over the flat tappet.
Again, assuming the specs are the same, your advantages with a roller over a flat tappet are longevity, better idle quality and better performance. Your advantage with the flat tappet is lower cost. I’m not saying that you can’t build a good performance engine with a flat tappet cam because even NASCAR engines are mandated to use flat tappet cams, albeit they’re solid and they make tons of power.
Ask yourself why Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, etc. went to roller cams for their production engines.
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N/A 406, TPIS Miniram, 58mm TB, 30lbs injectors, Custom Ground Elgin Cam, Ported TFS heads, SLP 1-3/4", & DFI computer.
11.70@117mph
The gains are from lack of frictional loss due to the rollers on the lifters and rollers generally have a more aggressive ramp, allowing for faster valve opening, longer time spent open at peak lift due to the wider area at the top of the lobe and faster valve closing (take a look at a roller cam and you will notice a more rounder nose vs. a flat tappet’s more pointed nose).
Roller cams and lifters can be re-used unlike flat tappet cams that wear down due to its design. Roller cams produce more vacuum at idle as apposed to a similar designed flat tappet, thus giving you better idle quality.
Also note though that even though a roller cam and a flat tappet cam may have the same advanced duration, duration @ .050” and LSA spec’s, roller cam will usually have more lift over the flat tappet.
Again, assuming the specs are the same, your advantages with a roller over a flat tappet are longevity, better idle quality and better performance. Your advantage with the flat tappet is lower cost. I’m not saying that you can’t build a good performance engine with a flat tappet cam because even NASCAR engines are mandated to use flat tappet cams, albeit they’re solid and they make tons of power.
Ask yourself why Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, etc. went to roller cams for their production engines.
------------------
N/A 406, TPIS Miniram, 58mm TB, 30lbs injectors, Custom Ground Elgin Cam, Ported TFS heads, SLP 1-3/4", & DFI computer.
11.70@117mph
I think I would use a short duration flat tappet cam with a .450ish lift. The reason I say that is because you are using TPI for induction. This setup will make great low to midrange torque but run out of steam probably around 4500rpm mabey less on a 400sb. You can make more torque than you can use so thats where I would put my dollars.
Steve
Steve
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