Junior Member
Westers has a place in northern Indiana, and if it is miss behaving I will take it there so they can tune it on the Dyno. This is why I would go there. They have centers all over the country. I like that possibility.
Junior Member
Quote:
Check this out.Originally Posted by psy4s
Westers has a place in northern Indiana, and if it is miss behaving I will take it there so they can tune it on the Dyno. This is why I would go there. They have centers all over the country. I like that possibility. 
so called custom chip questions i ordered a custom chip for my 92
with bolt on mods: free flow exhaust/no cat; cut air lid intake; thermostat; air foil; k&n; gears
i contacted a canadian custom chip maker
www.ecmprogrammer.com
wester's garage
1st custom chip: the vehicle speed sensor was messed; car read between 1 or 4 km/h never higher and torque converter never locked
2nd chip he sent me set code 51 for bad prom
today i contacted him and he wants to send me another before he will consider returning my money
btw I sent him my stock hypertech thermomaster; he said he downloaded the info said hypertech has basically stock air/fuel/spark curve only rev limiter raised and fans kick in sooner; torque converter kicks in at 44 mph instead of 38??
the first two wester's garage chips set the service engine soon light on so far!!
these are the mods he mentioned for the third chip
rev limiter slightly raised
fans kick in sooner
spark /air/fuel curve for 93 octane
delay torque converter
ques is with the crap he sent me and i tried could it hurt my car
i went back to stock chip and car is fine
only bad thing is car runs hotter with stock chip; about 220-230 fahrenheit in city when it is only 70 fahrenheit
no lights come on, but i feel it is hot
wester is mounting his "custom chip" on a hypertech piggy back system
i know hypertech does not offer great gains, except fan, but maybe i should just use the hypertech chip
sorry for long post
all comments appreciated
Junior Member
I am not the one to ask about programming, as I stated in my first post. This is my first at Fuel Injection with a performance engine. My setup is So Not even in the same neighborhood as what you are doing. You have left your cam, and heads, and injectors the same; I do not see the need for a custom chip. I would think any increase in air flow would be adjusted by the O2 sensors. Maybe not the most efficient way, but it works.
Actually for your setup, I would think Hypertech mods should be great for what you are using. From what I see, you need the fans to kick on sooner, and that is what it is doing. If you are using factory Thermostat and gauges, it is normal to see 220 degree temps on a factory setup. I did not like that either, but when I worked for the Blue oval during the eighties and early nineties, it was something I dealt with a lot. People were not used to engines running that hot. It actually is necessary to make them burn as clean as they do. It would have to get hotter than that to damage your engine.
That being said, do you get fluctuations in your readings while you are driving? If so you may have air in the system. Does your system pressurize instantly when the engine is first started? Has it ever overheated, and boiled over? If you answer yes to any of these, it sounds as if you may have a cooling problem that may not be related to the chip. I would check your Radiator for lime buildup, and remember if your thermostat is opening too soon, it can actually make your engine run hotter. The water flows too fast to allow it to cool in the Radiator.
Your stock engine with Aluminum, or cast iron heads will suffer greatly if you are running hot. Check for loss of coolant, you may have a head gasket leaking. I would check your Radiator by pressure testing your system. If you have a pressure bleed down you could have a bad radiator, or a slight head gasket leak. Aluminum head cast block combos are notorious for developing leaks, because of the different expansion rates of the metals. Cast Iron heads develop cracks between the valve seats that bleed antifreeze into the cylinder that will make your engine run hot and in time burn a hole through a piston. This information is from bad experiences I have had in the past. I started playing with engines in 1978 and have done more than a few since then, all carb cars except my 1982 Cross Fire car. That one put me off of fuel injection till now. A head gasket leak in that car caused a hydrostatic lock which bent a factory rod like a banana, and luckily stopped the engine when the piston hit the counter weight instead of trashing the block. I was idling when it happened and not going down the road.
I am Running a 10.5 compression 383, Balanced forged crank modified lt1 intake twin 58mm throttle body, 36# injectors, Eagle H Beam connecting Rods, Mahle forged flat top pistons, AFR 195 eliminator cylinder heads, CSR Electric Water pump, Twin Electric cooling fans run one from the temp of the block and one from the heads, not the computer, 190 amp alternator, 373 gears in the rear, and a Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed transmission. The only thing I am running from the computer is the Fuel through the injectors. My water pump and fuel pump both run with a delay to keep them running for some time after I shut off the car to cool both the water and fuel systems. I want to prevent any hot soak problems. I don’t want to sound like the TV ads, but heat is the enemy of your engine, yet you need it to make the thing work efficiently. I hope this long answer helps a little.
Actually for your setup, I would think Hypertech mods should be great for what you are using. From what I see, you need the fans to kick on sooner, and that is what it is doing. If you are using factory Thermostat and gauges, it is normal to see 220 degree temps on a factory setup. I did not like that either, but when I worked for the Blue oval during the eighties and early nineties, it was something I dealt with a lot. People were not used to engines running that hot. It actually is necessary to make them burn as clean as they do. It would have to get hotter than that to damage your engine.
That being said, do you get fluctuations in your readings while you are driving? If so you may have air in the system. Does your system pressurize instantly when the engine is first started? Has it ever overheated, and boiled over? If you answer yes to any of these, it sounds as if you may have a cooling problem that may not be related to the chip. I would check your Radiator for lime buildup, and remember if your thermostat is opening too soon, it can actually make your engine run hotter. The water flows too fast to allow it to cool in the Radiator.
Your stock engine with Aluminum, or cast iron heads will suffer greatly if you are running hot. Check for loss of coolant, you may have a head gasket leaking. I would check your Radiator by pressure testing your system. If you have a pressure bleed down you could have a bad radiator, or a slight head gasket leak. Aluminum head cast block combos are notorious for developing leaks, because of the different expansion rates of the metals. Cast Iron heads develop cracks between the valve seats that bleed antifreeze into the cylinder that will make your engine run hot and in time burn a hole through a piston. This information is from bad experiences I have had in the past. I started playing with engines in 1978 and have done more than a few since then, all carb cars except my 1982 Cross Fire car. That one put me off of fuel injection till now. A head gasket leak in that car caused a hydrostatic lock which bent a factory rod like a banana, and luckily stopped the engine when the piston hit the counter weight instead of trashing the block. I was idling when it happened and not going down the road.
I am Running a 10.5 compression 383, Balanced forged crank modified lt1 intake twin 58mm throttle body, 36# injectors, Eagle H Beam connecting Rods, Mahle forged flat top pistons, AFR 195 eliminator cylinder heads, CSR Electric Water pump, Twin Electric cooling fans run one from the temp of the block and one from the heads, not the computer, 190 amp alternator, 373 gears in the rear, and a Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed transmission. The only thing I am running from the computer is the Fuel through the injectors. My water pump and fuel pump both run with a delay to keep them running for some time after I shut off the car to cool both the water and fuel systems. I want to prevent any hot soak problems. I don’t want to sound like the TV ads, but heat is the enemy of your engine, yet you need it to make the thing work efficiently. I hope this long answer helps a little.
Junior Member
the last post was someone else 's setup and their problems with Westers,I changed out heads and cam on my engine along with the intake swap.
I think this thread is over..