I'm so sorry i missed this thread! you should have pm'd me!

what i mean is UNLIKE stock fuel lines.

parellel means each fuel rail has its own supply of fuel

LT1 stock is in series

read this great article on how to make your own parallel system

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...third_gen_use/

stock series LT1 style


parallel modded LT1 using aeromotive stuff

 

That is an EXCELLENT article, and definitely makes one stop and think. I also wonder if going parallel would help solve some of the LT1 and MiniRam (and maybe even SuperRam) split BLM problems - they may be caused or at least helped along by uneven fuel pressure on the two sides? Hmmmmm.........

 

Anyone have a pic of the parallel fuel lines installed on the car?

I read that the stock fuel system is only good to 350hp

 

there is alot of LT1 cars making well over 350whp with stock fuel lines and intake. i do believe some are making over 400whp.

i hear its over 500 crank hp or around 420+whp that it becomes a problem...but then again i dont see that many LT1's making that much power n/a..... nitrous and boost yes...and thats probly where the benefits of parallel fuel lines start to be noticable

 

Anyone heard from LT1intake.com?

 

3 months now, and nothing from them. I gave up on hearing from them.

 

Just thought ill let the public know, i sent another email to Scott and i got this back:

Sorry for the inconvienence, but I'm currently working 6 days a week
and have very little time for my web business.
Please check back again later.
Scott

 

i think i'm givin up on the LT1 intake conversion and just might swap in a LT1 motor!!

just might put up my manifold and rails for sale. i'm not doin the conversion myself

 

Other than the dist collar at the back of the intake manifold is there anything really hard about this conversions? If you can drill/tap a few holes...

What angle is the dist spacer/collar thingy at? Anyone able to measure?

 

If it was his "Web Business", the least he could do is take 5 min to post something on the main page, saying he's not able to take any orders, return emails right now, etc.

You aren't going to get customers in the future, when they hear nothing for months, except second hand now...

 

Ya, i replyed to him saying he really should tell me and those thirdgen.org when he will continue...oh well.

 

Yeah it sucks because i ordered an LT1 intake thinking i could just send it off to lt1intake.com for the work, now i have a big *** paper weight I can't do anything with...

 

well due to scott having delays or whatnot, i decided to start the conversion myself. i got all the holes marked off and i need to grind some things away before i start drilling, but i'm ready. so far its not that bad but we'll see

 

I have a converted LT1 intake.
So if you need in depth pics, I can help you out.

 

i'd like to see how u setup the spacer and hold down clamp. the spacer gives the correct hieght but i'm still unsure how i'm gonna make a raised distrib hold down bolt/clamp. my first thoughts was to try and use a quiksteel putty that hardens like metal..much like JB cold weld but its a putty so its more playable. i used it on the holes and it works great.

 

Instead of using a ton of washers like lt1intake. I can machine a small piece of metal you could use and JB weld or tig weld it to the intake.

I can tap it for what ever size bolt you would like also. BTW I have one 1 distrib spacer left I can sell also.

 

if i was gonna do the metal piece and tap it, i would like to keep the stock TPI manifold dizzy hold down clamp and bolt. i dont know what size that is but thats what i'd like to have so i can directly swap over the TPI factory clamp/bolt system. you can pm me some details on it.

i already have a spacer. a good idea would be to make a spacer and extra material on it for the clamp with hole tapped for bolt...all one piece unit.

 

That is a good idea.... I'll have to rem that next time I need to make a spacer. Only problem is I make em in a lathe because its quick. Id have to make a All in one in the CnC which would take longer and cost the end user more.

 

thats the only downfall i could see, that it would requrie more machining time and be more expensive. oh well, i dont mind a two piece unit...since u have to line up everything durin the final install anyway

 

Don't lose hope- a machine shop can always make the changes you'll need.
It may cost you $$$$$$$ though-

 

has anyone solved the EGR problem on the LT1 conversion?

I'd like to have a go at an LT1 intake but have to be emissions compliant or I am off the road

 

I just had my emissions test a couple of weeks ago. My 10 month old cat converter doesn't have an AIR tube. My smog pump doesn't even have a pulley.

You know what my numbers were?

High Speed-2692rpm
HC 220-standard 4-my reading
CO% 1.20-standard 0-my reading

Idle
HC 220-standard 16-my reading
CO% 1.20-standard 0.01-my reading

I'd say I passed wih flying colors!

 

yes most motors can pass smog but some states require a visual inspection too...which sucks as u need EGR there and functional. as with a cat

 

They obviously didn't pay attention, as we have the visual as well. Visually, I should have failed, which is my biggest gripe with the visual part...

My car passed with flying colors, even without the "required" equipment. If smog prevention was really the governments goal, leave my hood shut, and run the smog test. Pass or fail! Who cares HOW it passed, just if it does or not.

 

I've got an LT1 on the bench I want to use but I need to pass emissions too. I'm trying to figure a way to adapt the EGR valve which I think is the biggest issue. If you can install the valve I believe getting an exhaust supply is not a big deal. The intake already has the plumbing built in. Just supply about a 3/8" line from an exhaust source to the side of the casting where the original fitting bolts on. Maybe make an angled spacer to angle the EGR valve away from the distributor. Or maybe the angle adapter could be used to create a remote EGR setup. Even though the HSR is not CARB approved you could really use the remote EGR to pass with the HSR if all you need to pass is tailpipe test. My Z was showing 114 ppm NOx with EGR and without 765 ppm. The max is about 785 ppm. I want to use one intake with the future of upgrading other components in mind without having to buy an intake twice. The HSR is very appealing I may do the remote EGR with it since Georgia only does TP emissions and not a visual for CARB approval.

 

i just keep my car under 5000 miles a year and i'm exempt... i dont mind it tho this past year i only drove like 3800 if that.

 

Is there a under 5000 miles limit or something, that qualifies you as exempt? From emissions only, or annual inspection period?

My GTA is my only car, yet I only put about 7000 miles on it last year. No, I don't go very far, very often.

 

yes, PA has a 5000 mile or less emissions exemption...they dont worry about emissions stuff as long as ur under that

 

I just passed the TX emissions test with flying colors as well, with no AIR and no EGR. A quart of denatured alcohol in a half a tank of gas and a decent tune does wonders!

 

vernw, I agree with you I think I'm going to install the HSR then follow what your doing and we'll see. Next month I'm buying the HSR and E-Baying the LT1 intake.
Also as a provisional upgrade I'm going to parallel my fuel rails like Orr89rocZ was referring to.
Anyone have an idea how much taller the HSR is than the stock TPI system.

 

About LT1intake.com, it has been months when I ordered my intake. I have paid it through paypal. And after the payment, no intake, no answering emails, nothing. Way to do business. Im freaking pissed!

 

who is doing this kind of set ups now? I do not feel comfortable doing it myself. Any ideas?
LJ

 

There is a guy on ebay doing them
However he removes the IAT bung, drivers PCV outlet and one of the vacuum ports in an attempt at 'Air Gap'

Dont expect to take them out of the box and strait onto the engine thou
Mine required a good bit of fitment

 

I have been following these lt1 intake swaps and I was wondering if there was a way to run one without a dist? What I mean is can you convert a l98 ignition like a lt1's? Would that be easier then drilling a hole and JB welding spacers and what not? Whats all involved with a lt1 ignition...crank sensor, coil pack right?

 

Here's a pic Large Dizzy, Y body.

 

looks like a large HEI distrubutor ??

Olav

 

in response to 4playta: no, its run by a distributor mounted behind water pump and is cam driven (which the water pump is cam driven also) the 96 and 97 lt1's had a crank sensor for sequential but still used the optispark cam driven distributor.

 

I am about to Fab up the LT1 Conversion and will be in need of a spacer. Do you still have them available?

Thanks,

Mike

 

This thread is 2 years old.
Send a PM to person directly

 

Hey Thanks for the Heads up!

Mike