I want my wheel wells and under carriage to look semi gloss black... I don't have rust, just dirt & grime...

I want something to protect it & look nice...

Do I need the "rust" stuff listed in the subject or what should I use... I hear praises about por 15 (when used as directed) the rust encapsulatoer is one step, the 3m stuff says "stays tacky and doesn't dry"..??

Any other choices??

 

POR15 will adhere to bare metal, but you may need to treat the metal first with their pre-treater (I forget what it's called). Should (but I don't know) stick to paint and/or clearcoat as long as it's roughed first.

That surprised me about 3M...they usually have awesome adhesives. You want to stay far away from anything which remains tacky because you'll never be able to really clean it that well. Something which dries very hard should be pretty easy to clean (pressure wash for the underside).

 

Here is the blurb on 3m Rust Fighter I

Internal panel coating used for corrosion protection. Ideal for restoring corrosion protection following the repair of hem flanges, door skins, rocker panels, and similiar areas.
When sprayed, this material flows freely into tight corners and other hard to reach areas. The coating covers evenly, stays tacky and flexible and does not dry. Its low odor permits use indoors. Replaces protection which is applied at the factory and destroyed in the repair procedure. Easily applied with the 3M™ Rust Fighter-I Application Wand, part number 08998.

 

For POR-15 you need to use the metal ready(pre-treater)

 

Heres my wheel wells done with POR-15. The clean metal needs to be de-greased, then treated with metal ready and then you can paint on the por-15. I used 4 coats on the back well, and 3 on the front. I think 3 will be plenty.

 

Camaro0605, thanks for the pics.
Looks great!
Rafael

 

A company called SEM sells rust converter in either aerosol or roll or brush on forms.

 

I'm all for the por 15. I've used several quarts of the stuff. I did my entire engine bay. Clean is the most important part. It also doesn't stick well to painted surfaces. So if there is paint you really need to strip it to bare metal. The same really applies to most of the rust protectants. They need to be in contact with the metal to block out moisture.

This is after I lightly sanded mine to smooth it prior to priming. Also don't be afraid to spray. I used my devilbiss finishline and had no problems. Just have some laquer cleaner handy to run through the gun immediatly after your done.

 

Niiiice. You're doing what I want to do: strip the car to a shell and give it a nice finish. Rebuild with good parts/paint and there's your sweet ride.

 

por 15 is what i plan on using for my rs , i got the free catalog and i swear i open it up every other day and gaze at the products and ideas just flow through my head,but one question,has anyone have or had any expierence with their epoxy putty?


thanks !

nick

 

if you read the por 15 book it says it can go right over bare metal without a metal conditioner as long as it has somthing to bite into, like rust or a sand blasted surface. i sand blasted my undercarrige and sprayed the por-15 mixed with a little thinner from por 15 and it works great has the same finish as a one-step paint / enamel paint used years ago by automakers before the clear 2 step came out.

por 15 is better in my opinion than powdercoating. i just had my lower control arms and sway bars powdercoated and the damn stuff chips, maybe its just the place i got it done at but they speacialize in it. por 15 is hard durrable stuff, you can actually smash it with a hammer and it doesnt come off.

i triied that pre-treater and it turned the metal all white looked like it had calcium all over the metal. didnt like it.