Certainly the end, but definitely the beginning. Nice build!

Can't wait to see how the new project turns out ! Looks like it's gonna be one bad *** build

Update - I got the crossover pipe done. I decided to use the slp driver side header since it has larger primaries and fits right in with no mods.


[URL=http://s702.photobucket.com/user/Uncle_Slappy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140909_162756_zps0adt2c9h.jpg.html]

You must be using an aftermarket K-member? Even with a non-factory unit is there enough clearance?

Dual pump mod complete :-)

Yes I'm using the PA racing kmember. Tons of room

I love watching broke cars get crunched. Be honest, what was left on the car? The OP already pulled off the good stuff, what was left wasn't worth saving, it was scrap metal.

You think of a car as this huge sturdy hunk of metal, then you watch it get crunched like so much tissue paper.

Too be honest, I'm getting near the point where i may either convert my car to "stripped out race car" status, or find a roller to move too and sell the frame to someone else to make a race car out of.

This is gonna turn out amazing!

Sorry to hear man, but your bouncing back and it's gona be a sweet build!

I felt the same way when mine was stoken and gutted 3 months after finishing it, which had a brand new aluminum 383 with HSR etc. I got it back gutted and went all out. Now it has a 521 BBF!

On a side note I copied ur strut mount spacers as I have hotpart caster/camber plates and with my new coil overs 12" 300lb springs it sat about as low as my cut moog 5664s but wanted room for adjustment. I had a guy make up the spacers they are on the way. How much adjustment do you have with the coil overs how u have them? The spring takes up alot of the strut tower opening... I thought about opening up that hole for more room.

The openings have plenty of room but then again I haven't had to adjust much. I just read your other message about the spacers. My supplier went out of business so I wouldn't of been able to make them anyways. Just a quick update on the build - I started to install the rollcage and pulled the rear carpet back and found that the previous owner did the fuel access panel hack job and sealed it with foam spray. A friggin one eyed blind bat monkey could've done a better job. I did some repairs and since the hole was already there I decided to keep it and make it better.

I SHOULD NOT of watched your car getting yanked away. That was sad man.

Glad to see your on to something new. Please tell me it will be black.

I tossed around the idea of wrapping it in matte blue metallic but I'm gonna stay with black satin. It just looks intimidating at night. I'll call this Operation Back in Black 😆

Whats the cost of those wraps? you do them yourself?

A 45ftx5ft roll of 3m black satin was $350. I did the work myself.

You post a few positives and negatives with that? I can do my own paint work and 350 bucks would get me close to materials. I have tinted a bunch of cars and done vinyl work so i think i can handle it.

What are the benefits? Why do you prefer the wrap?

Man...new set up is looking awesome!!

If i could wrap over my flaking clear coat, I would spend $350 and figure out how to wrap it myself in a heartbeat!!!!

By the time I prep for the wrap, I might as well spray it with satin black haha.

Cant wait to see more progress!

J.

sweet build

This hurts my happy to see. First and foremost, i'm glad you are safe! Secondly, i'm glad that this didn't deter your spirit and motivation. Best wishes with your build.

Just curious, what size rim and tire were you running ? And how did the spacing work out with stock wheel wells ?

Is this directed to me or the OP?

I'm running 18x8.5 wheels with 275/35/18 tires. No rubbing issues from lock to lock even with a gratuitous amount of drop.

No wheel spacers ?

Op, just curious on his fitments

I was running 19x8.5 front 245/40 and 19x9.5 rear 275/35 with 1.5" adapters

Thanks man, and I can't wait to see how everything turns out !

Thanks man, slowly but surely getting there. Working on the fuel system now. Mounting fuel tank back in and running 8an braided fuel line to the filters

Sounds good, dropping a new tank in my car as well in the next few weeks. Vacuum In my system is fried. Also putting a posi rear and rust repair

Update: got the fuel tank in and fuel lines routed up to the 8an filters where the factory filter used to be.

Hate the hole but what are you gona do lol… makes pump changing easier I guess for you lol. I put in a support bar between the tank and the floor at the top with ties in the rear roll bars more under the car. Some people put them on the bars inside the car but I wanted mine to be hidden. its 1"x1"x.120" wall tubing and basically its welded to the spring bucket/rear subframe. and the floor steel above the tank. I knotched the gas tank strap frame to push the steel tubing against the floor panel and welded the knotched strap frame to the tubing and the floor. should of helped stiffen it up considerably.

What pump are you running? I see 2 lines that go to a Y… pressure lines? and the return back to the tank?. What are you using for the vent? Just the stock 5/16" line with the valve on the end? I see the rubber line so I assume thats it. The fact that you have two lines going to a Y fitting means they are pressure and that you have 2 pumps.

Why not just sump the stock tank?

Yeah I don't like the access panel idea either but since it was already there might as well clean it up and put it to good use. I'm running dual in tank walbro pumps. One pump will be on constantly and the other comes on at boost pressure using a Hobbs switch. I thought about doing the sump but I already set my mind on dual intank setup. I'm using factory vent valve.

That video would have made me cry for my car.

I haven't posted in a while so here's an update. Got the engine bay cleaned up and painted the firewall rollbar chassis black and the rest black wrinkle finish. Came out lovely. Engine is in and turbo has been clearance. I had to massage the passenger side shock tower to clear the turbine but no big deal. Intercooler is mounted and I cut an opening in the center of the impact bar for more airflow. I also modified the hood latch assembly. I will cut an opening in the bumper in between the fog lights and cover it in chicken wire formed to fit the opening. It'll look nice, trust me :-). The wheels I picked up from a member on here for a great deal. Thanks Zach! Enjoy the pics.

Polished intake plenum cover





Test fitting intercooler piping. Gonna have to come up with something for the intake boot. It's tight fit in there, that's what she said - badabing!

Xxr531's





The entire car will be wrapped in black brushed aluminum vinyl by yours truly :-D

this is coming out fantastic

Just seen this thread. Sorry to hear about your car. It's one of my favorites on here. Glad you came out ok.

I like the way the new car is coming along. Can't wait to see it finished.

Great build! What rear end will you be using? What rear was in the old car?

How well do those AN-Hardline connectors hold up to the fuel pressure? The ones on the top fo the tank connecting to the sender/pump unit.

I'll be using the same rear that was in the other car. It's a modified 10bolt with Auburn limited slip, 3.73 Richmond gears, TA diff cover, welded axle tubes and QA1 coilovers. It survived 700hp on the last car so I'm gonna use it til it breaks then I'll either do 8.8 swap or Ford 9"

Don't know if that's a 7.6 or a BW, but either way, that's pretty impressive. And encouraging.

Its the 7.6, I've broken the ring and pinion twice but I'm blaming that on shoddy work on the place that put them in. I set it up myself with a summit solid spacer kit instead of a crush sleeve and so far so good.

I haven't tested them yet but I will soon before I fire up the engine. Some say they handle 50 psi max some say higher than that so we'll see. If they they leak then I'll use swageloks. I hear they're pretty good.

Wow!! It's been a while since I've been on, longer since I posted.
Sorry to see what happened, glad you walked away, and undeterred!!
Good that you pressed on with your plans, & a new ride.
Something I have been thinking about but yet to do, maybe your thoughts since you were the victim of a simplton douchebag --
GoPro dash cam
Hats off to ya, best of luck & good times!!

Swageloc is awesome! We use them on alot of our rocket engine assembly's.

AN is fine, are those aluminum, right?

I'm assuming you have a solid pinion spacer in there instead of the crush sleeve?

How much better is the solid spacer? Does it really make that much difference?

See reply #90 from him.

Ok, I feel dumb. I read through the entire thread and missed that.

I have basically his exact rear-end, welded axle tubes, 28 spline moser axles, 3.73's and the 'Ultimate" diff cover, but a zexel torsen instead of an auburn unit. If a solid pinon spacer makes that much difference, I'm going to kick myself because I had one that I couldn't find when I needed to rebuild the rear end so it didn't get installed and the guy at the shop swore up and down I wouldn't need it.

I'd love to put a Zexel in mine when the time comes.

He seems happy with his solid spacer. I know the Mopar 8.75" (banjo) rear axle uses a crush sleeve in some series (the one I have of course), and I plan to eliminate it. They seem to have a bad reputation in hard use.

By all accounts, yes he does.

Torsen T-2R
I have the Torsen T2R, positive bias version. The normal ones, like all normal limited slips, if one wheel loses complete traction, the diff goes open. this one won't. Leaves very appealing trail behind me when I go.

I did not know they behaved that way. Good to know. Where did you buy yours at? A quick search is showing my lots of Ford forum talk about them, but I'm not seeing links to the usual vendors...DTS, Summit, Jegs, etc.

Since we got talkign about it, I started looking and havne't seen any.

The Torsens' were standard on 99-02 V8 Firebirds and Camaro's, but I don't know if any GM product has worn it since.

That said, I bougt mine at Reid Racing back in 2007 for around $400. I don't know if they still sell them, a quick look didnt' show anything like diff's anymore. Your best bet might be to contact the company direct to see if they still make them for GM 7.6 10-bolts.