gloss or satin black?

 

What are the pros and cons of each? any pics?!?!?

 

Since neither color is stock, I'd go with gloss black in order to match your car. The IROC wheels I had plated were painted gloss black, and looked pretty good. You should consider polishing the non painted surfaces first, painting the black, and then clearcoating the whole wheel with a durable paint made for wheels.

 

I believe the original paint was an epoxy based paint so that's what I'm going with. I've already polished the non-painted surfaces. Are you saying that IROC wheels were never available in black? I didn't know that!

 

Nope, either grey or gold, not black.

 

I didn't vote for either choice because neither is right. The correct answer is FLAT BLACK. I'll tell you why. Well first are you going to clearcoat them again? If so the clear may have a problem sticking to anything but a flat paint. And once the clear is applied it will appear glossy.

 

I already have some gloss and satin paint at home but i dont want to buy flat (lazy, broke, ect.) You think clearcoat wont stick? didn't know that one either. I learn new stuff everyday.

 

I think the clear will stick. But then again, I don't paint much.

Could always powder coat it mirror black and the polish what you want and follow up with a powder coating in clear. It'll last longer and look better this way.

 

I don't see why the clear wouldn't stick to the gloss black since you are using an epoxy. Might be a problem if it was a lesser paint. Just be sure to apply the clear within the specified time frame for topcoating, so that the black doesn't set too much.

 

Wrong. Sorry for being blunt.
I used a flat black and let it dry per spec. I then applied a two part clear(Glisten PC) to the wheels. Very soon the black started lifting. It sure sucks to strip a shiny finished wheel. Turns out as paint drys it lets out a gas. I cleared before all that gas had escapet and ended up re-doing a couple wheels. I say forget about the drying time and just make it 24 hours to be safe.
Why would you want to use a gloss and clear over that anyway? Seems to me the shiny finish would make it tough for the clear to stick, except for a two-part clear like Glisten PC.

Here's how flat black turns out:

 

John, were the black and clear that you used both the same brand and type? If not, I can see where you had the problem, and I'd agree with your assessment. But if the paints are compatible then I'd personally follow the top coating directions. I've done other wheels before in silver epoxy (which was a glossy metallic base) and covered them in the same brand clear within the specified time, and had no lifting problems. Following the manufacturers recommendations as to drying time have never failed me yet. As for why to use a gloss black with the clear, simply put, the shine will more likely be much deeper than with a flat black. I wouldn't assume that an epoxy will act the same way as a basecoat/clearcoat paint as far as bring up the gloss is concerned. I've painted parts with a (non-bccc type) flat paint and then cleared them before and wasn't overly impressed with the results. I'm not an auto painter by trade, and if I'm wrong then maybe someone here that is can correct me, but I have painted my share of cars and parts over the last couple of decades with quite satisfactory results.

 

Blue,
No, my black and clear were not the same. I used an oil enamel for the flat black and a two-part clearcoat(Glisten PC).