Rear hatch motor, yeah, same topic, diff problem
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 48
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From: Southwest Va.
Car: 1990 Firebird
Rear hatch motor, yeah, same topic, diff problem
Rear hatch closing motor on '90 f-body. I looked at all the tech faqs, users problems and recommendations and yet to see anyone that is experiencing exactly the same problem that I have with the electric motor on the rear hatch closer. Mine appears to operate just great except.....when it has grabbed the hatch loop, pulled it all the way down as it is supposed to do, it does not "lock" into position, so when i hit a bump or just walk over and grab the hatch, it comes up to the uppermost position still locked but now showing an ugly gap of about 1.5" not to mention the noise and water concerns! This got worse when I recently replaced my support arms, now the new arms keep it up in the "up" position. What piece am I missing that is allowing the motor to freely ride the rails to the top??? Help Please.
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Where the heck am I !..Oh yeah,in Lousy-ana.
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 4L60 automatic
I forgot exactly what happened to mine but maybe the plastic guides that are on the motor,that go in the tracks,that the motor rises and lowers on broke.Also the clear plastic cover that goes over the actuator may have cracked at where they screw down too.All this happened to mine and was doing the same thing as yours is doing.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 48
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From: Southwest Va.
Car: 1990 Firebird
Thanks 91zman. I check the guides. They are in place, however, the little plastic straps that connect the two halves togerther are all broken. Not sure what you refer to when you said the plastic cover over the acuator....Are you talking about on the end of the motor? My motor seems to just hang on the end of the assembly and swing freely(which doesn't seem right to me), but appears to be functioning as required. The assembly freely rides up and down the tracks, just that it would appear something is missing that would hold it in place on the lower end when it is down. There is also a black wire with a connector end not plugged into anything and this again makes me think something is missing.
Joe
Joe
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Joe, Yes I can help. Your problem is the motor housing is BROKEN. This is a common problem. The motor housings take a lot of abuse when the hatch is accidentally slammed shut (you mentioned recently replacing the hatch struts). The housing is plastic and breaks where the 3 screws attach it to the frame. You can buy a new one from GM p/n 20160581. Or, better choice you can get the reinforced one from me TDS p/n 103121. I reinforce new GM housings with 4 pieces of aluminum and epoxy in this area. I'll e-mail you my Price List. I include detailed and illustrated instructions on repairing the hatch pull-down unit with the guide kit I sell. Lon
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,563
Likes: 0
From: Where the heck am I !..Oh yeah,in Lousy-ana.
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 4L60 automatic
What lonsal said is what I meant to say not the actuator but the motor cover.It is not suppose to swing freely like that.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Be careful. DO NOT remove the motor case (shiny metal cover attached with 2 Phillips head screws to the motor). I include a picture and precaution in my instructions. If you remove that you'll likely damage the motor (I have them available also in case you do break yours). What is broken is called a Motor Housing by GM. It is plastic. The motor slips into it once you've disassembled it ehough to get to it. It's important that you disassemble the unit correctly or you can break something. I'm working on converting my Instruction Sheet into a Tech Article and will have it posted when it is done. In the meantime I'll gladly e-mail it to anyone that needs it. Lon
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