4th Gen Wiring; Good Progress + Info!
12-26-2004, 11:37 PM
#101
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Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: lt1 intaked 355 makin 277 on 25 psi of fuel pressure and stock timing :)
Transmission: A4 stock... that moved a mobile dyno a foot shifting into 2nd :)
yea have u never heard of this? first car i know of that had it was the vette but i want it 
and from what it looks like i think u can splice in to the vss signal and get your input from there..... and it should work.... not sure but i am gonna try it and post up my results... so as u hit the gas the volume rises and lowers depending on speed
and from what it looks like i think u can splice in to the vss signal and get your input from there..... and it should work.... not sure but i am gonna try it and post up my results... so as u hit the gas the volume rises and lowers depending on speed 
12-29-2004, 03:18 AM
#102
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Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
had it in a rental buick once....was actually very very annoying, cause it was increasing non-porportionally (sp) to wind noise increase....so, you could relaly hear the radio kick up @ 60 mph, although the outside noises didn't get much louder than when you were doing 45. would make for a nice toy however, had the thought of doing it years ago, but through it away....the time where it would be handy is when your interstating w/ the t-tops off...then, that'd be a hands free lil' benefit.
12-29-2004, 10:54 PM
#103
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Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: lt1 intaked 355 makin 277 on 25 psi of fuel pressure and stock timing :)
Transmission: A4 stock... that moved a mobile dyno a foot shifting into 2nd :)
have an update on the headlights from a trans am to a trans am..... pre 90 i guess....there is a problem of the lights not going back down to the off/down position...... and i have found a cure.... i went through and probed the back of the headlight switch with the connector in and power running through it... and there are 2 unused terminals that supply 12v's in the off position and no current when park/headlights on....is one of the spots a, b, or c i am not by the car right now but its which ever one isnt used there are 2 that do the same thing so its either or.... now how to get it to work..... go to your 4th gen harness and start looking at the extra connectors... and find one that had a terminal that looks like the metal terminals in the connector... then cut it and carefully remove the from the connector (destroy the connector if need be but try not to bend the connector) then take it to your headlight connector and remove the little plastic snap retaining plastic peice, remove the rubber weather seal if the wire has one..... then slide it in... and replace that clip...... and splice the white wire from your factory headlight harness to the new installed wire..... and BAM the go up and down.....
12-30-2004, 09:14 PM
#104
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Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
had someone e-mail me a question about the headlight operation, so i responded to them with this.
Alright, can't remember if it was u, or the other guy who i told that the
wiring might be different....neway, this is what i got.
3rd gen..........................4th gen
Yellow (x2).....................Yellow
White............................Orange
Brown...........................Brown
Pink.............................Pink
Gray..............................Gray
Black (cluster ground).....Black
Didn't have foggies so i cna't be sure on that one...i think there's info on
it somewhere in 3rd gen cause people were having issues w/ it
before......sorry can't be of further help...
The two yellows on the 3rd gen were spliced into the one yellow on the 4th
gen...and the white from the orange was also connected to what i believe a
red from the VSS/Buffer thingie on the back of my speedo, in an attempt to
ghetto rig my speedo to work....failed attempt, needing to convert to an
electric sender. anway, anymore qudstions just ask away and i'll do my best
to help....
Alright, can't remember if it was u, or the other guy who i told that the
wiring might be different....neway, this is what i got.
3rd gen..........................4th gen
Yellow (x2).....................Yellow
White............................Orange
Brown...........................Brown
Pink.............................Pink
Gray..............................Gray
Black (cluster ground).....Black
Didn't have foggies so i cna't be sure on that one...i think there's info on
it somewhere in 3rd gen cause people were having issues w/ it
before......sorry can't be of further help...
The two yellows on the 3rd gen were spliced into the one yellow on the 4th
gen...and the white from the orange was also connected to what i believe a
red from the VSS/Buffer thingie on the back of my speedo, in an attempt to
ghetto rig my speedo to work....failed attempt, needing to convert to an
electric sender. anway, anymore qudstions just ask away and i'll do my best
to help....
02-04-2005, 10:54 PM
#105
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally posted by tpiroc
There is a strange light that's red with an arrow pointing down into a box that's controlled by a yellow and black wire.
There's a large orange wire from the 4th gen cluster that needs to be connected to one of the pink and black wires to power the instruments.
Lastly, there's a red wire that puzzles me; it needs to be connected to a ground though.
There is a strange light that's red with an arrow pointing down into a box that's controlled by a yellow and black wire.
There's a large orange wire from the 4th gen cluster that needs to be connected to one of the pink and black wires to power the instruments.
Lastly, there's a red wire that puzzles me; it needs to be connected to a ground though.
why does the red wire need to be grounded? what happens if it isnt?
a GM service sheet labels it "generator output" i would assume it does something with the alternator?
02-06-2005, 03:27 PM
#106
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
My volt gauge does not work on my firebird dash and the red is grounded, but I really dont care.
I wish everything was functional but one guage not workin wont bug me
I wish everything was functional but one guage not workin wont bug me
02-06-2005, 03:51 PM
#107
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
i finally got around to hooking up my 97 cluster and all gauges work WITHOUT hooking up the "thin red wire"
does anyone know what it actually does? in my case it was not an issue.
my "LOW OIL" light is on, ill make a seperate post and see if anyone knows what resistance it takes to shut it off. 12v or grounding it does NOT turn it off.
does anyone know what it actually does? in my case it was not an issue.
my "LOW OIL" light is on, ill make a seperate post and see if anyone knows what resistance it takes to shut it off. 12v or grounding it does NOT turn it off.
03-30-2005, 12:44 AM
#108
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Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 385AFR head, Mini Ram Intake
Transmission: 6 Sp.
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Not sure if this is a dumb question or not, but has any tried to connect the whole wiring harness to the stock socket for the car. Would that be easier or are the wiring totally different
03-30-2005, 01:35 AM
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Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
as in just put it to the computer? should be totally different. Which is why you have to do all the fun splice here, splice there. If you've done or are doing and LT1, or LS1 swap, and have the 4th gen wiring harness, hehe, plug-n-play.
03-30-2005, 01:40 AM
#110
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Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 385AFR head, Mini Ram Intake
Transmission: 6 Sp.
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Thanks, that what I was wondering, Going to do it in a couple of months. Have everything. Seats, dash, door panels and console. Puttin a 385 with LT1 heads and intake int also. Probably going to get the motor in first then handle the swap. Its a 85 Iroc with a 96 6sp. so no speedo yet. Changing the TPI to 90 map system. I bougth everything to do the 90 dash swap, but selling it now. Just have to figure out how to hook the speedo to the 6sp. still not dure if its a direct wire or not.
03-31-2005, 11:54 AM
#111
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Car: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.45
Originally posted by tpiroc
There is a strange light that's red with an arrow pointing down into a box that's controlled by a yellow and black wire.
There is a strange light that's red with an arrow pointing down into a box that's controlled by a yellow and black wire.
03-31-2005, 06:12 PM
#112
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
sensor is on the passenger side side of the radiator. in the upper location i think. just unhook it, most people too. the light staying on is a common problem from corrosion getting on the sensor and giving it a false reading.
good luck.
good luck.
10-18-2005, 12:47 AM
#113
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Originally posted by 85 roc it
Just have to figure out how to hook the speedo to the 6sp. still not dure if its a direct wire or not.
Just have to figure out how to hook the speedo to the 6sp. still not dure if its a direct wire or not.
01-19-2006, 06:37 PM
#114
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wiring
ok guys, im in the process of doing the 4th gen swap on my 79 camaro and so far this is the most informative site as far as the 4th gen swap is concerned that i have found. i have all of the parts to do the swap(dash, cluster, console, and seats) and i have seen it done in a hand full of cars. the only problem is, when this swap is done in a 2nd gen camaro, people swap every thing including the motor, so every thing is just plug it in ang go.
i dont have that kind of money, so i know this wont be an easy swap. i want to have a fully functional dash and i was wondering if i can swap in a harness and computer out of a third gen(wrecking yards are full of 3rd gen stuff here) so i can have a fully functional dash. i would use a harness and computer out of a 4th gen but they are hard to find in the yards arround here and they are pricey when i can find one. i hope you guys can offer me a little help here. thanks in advance.
i dont have that kind of money, so i know this wont be an easy swap. i want to have a fully functional dash and i was wondering if i can swap in a harness and computer out of a third gen(wrecking yards are full of 3rd gen stuff here) so i can have a fully functional dash. i would use a harness and computer out of a 4th gen but they are hard to find in the yards arround here and they are pricey when i can find one. i hope you guys can offer me a little help here. thanks in advance.
01-19-2006, 08:30 PM
#115
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
what year is the guage cluster you are using, this is a BIG part of the conversion.
i can get you a schematic of the plug, and you can hardwire everything yourself. all you need is a few of the correct sensors and a lil creativity. so all the stuff works.
there are bugs with anything, but its not required to have a complete harness if you are just wanting the gauges themselves to work properly.
ive got a carbed motor in my ride and all my gauges work fine with my ls1 dash swap.
good luck, LMK if you have any Q's
i can get you a schematic of the plug, and you can hardwire everything yourself. all you need is a few of the correct sensors and a lil creativity. so all the stuff works.
there are bugs with anything, but its not required to have a complete harness if you are just wanting the gauges themselves to work properly.
ive got a carbed motor in my ride and all my gauges work fine with my ls1 dash swap.
good luck, LMK if you have any Q's
01-20-2006, 06:44 AM
#116
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Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
hey stage 20, what'd u do for your tach and your speedometer? my tach works, but is off ( i can guage it still pretty well for speed) and my speedo well, it rests on the zero mark....
01-20-2006, 08:28 AM
#117
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Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: lt1 intaked 355 makin 277 on 25 psi of fuel pressure and stock timing :)
Transmission: A4 stock... that moved a mobile dyno a foot shifting into 2nd :)
85f-bird i had to get the dakota digi box.... and the speedo you could need a 2nd dakota digi box to send the correct signal
01-20-2006, 02:39 PM
#119
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Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
its been a while for me, so, this could be painful....i believe that the 4th gen metal support bracket is basically connected the way the old 3rd gen bracket was. I connected it to the steering column , and then to the side post connectors at the corners of the doors. Don't believe it went all the way to the firewall, just to the body of the car.
01-20-2006, 02:55 PM
#120
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally posted by 85f-bird
hey stage 20, what'd u do for your tach and your speedometer? my tach works, but is off ( i can guage it still pretty well for speed) and my speedo well, it rests on the zero mark....
hey stage 20, what'd u do for your tach and your speedometer? my tach works, but is off ( i can guage it still pretty well for speed) and my speedo well, it rests on the zero mark....
its accurate.
02-11-2006, 12:35 AM
#122
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Originally posted by IROC_5796
TPIROC any progress made with your install?
TPIROC any progress made with your install?
So this may be end for any technical input I have as far as electrical goes, but I sill plan on using the dash and door panels, so I’ll definitely post that! Once I finish my Cadillac's 504, I really want to get the interior into the car since I finished painting the floor over a year ago.
03-20-2006, 11:00 PM
#123
Originally Posted by shortbed454
when i bought my dash it came with a metel bar/bracket but im not to sure where it is supposed to mount.
wher does it connect to the dash/firewall.
wher does it connect to the dash/firewall.
03-21-2006, 01:18 AM
#124
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Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
just go to the yards and pull yourself a support bracket from another 4th gen dash...if you tried hard enough, you might be able to mod your 3rd gen unit to use...but i'd just advise getting the one from the 4th gen...sad part is, you'll have to go through all the trouble of pulling the dash out, which is very enjoyable in a stock 4th gen car.
03-21-2006, 04:49 PM
#125
ok i think im going to try something that no one has tryed on here yet maybe? my 4th gen dash is not in the best shape don't even think i could get it mount up so im going to remount the stock dash then cut the crap out of it then slide the 4th gen over it and use some epoxy of silcon to bond them together as they sit right now the 4th gen fits over the stock dash with no mods done to it yet so with some work and taking my time should turn out ok
03-21-2006, 07:15 PM
#126
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally Posted by obeymybird
ok i think im going to try something that no one has tryed on here yet maybe? my 4th gen dash is not in the best shape don't even think i could get it mount up so im going to remount the stock dash then cut the crap out of it then slide the 4th gen over it and use some epoxy of silcon to bond them together as they sit right now the 4th gen fits over the stock dash with no mods done to it yet so with some work and taking my time should turn out ok
PLEASE!
NO!
its very simple to do and has been done a million times.
i have no clue how you are gonna make it look good, but the 4th gen dash is about the most simple dash swap you can do. sure nothing fits, but its all right there laid out. only a lil cutting and bracket making neccessary.
good luck!
03-22-2006, 09:21 PM
#127
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally Posted by obeymybird
ok i think im going to try something that no one has tryed on here yet maybe? my 4th gen dash is not in the best shape don't even think i could get it mount up so im going to remount the stock dash then cut the crap out of it then slide the 4th gen over it and use some epoxy of silcon to bond them together as they sit right now the 4th gen fits over the stock dash with no mods done to it yet so with some work and taking my time should turn out ok
I second that Please do not do this!! But dont hijack this post please, make a new post for your idea.
Jason
03-23-2006, 08:13 AM
#128
so you think i should just stick to put in the 4th gen dash i will try i still got to get my wiring figured out yet but i have to get my rear sway bar on before i start the dash just waiting for a nice day i don't know my new dash is just in pretty poor shape the right side mount in broke off and there is no metel braket thats just some of the stuff wrong with it
04-10-2006, 10:43 PM
#130
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Originally Posted by obeymybird
anyone know what color wire in the 4th gen gauge harness is for the volted gauge i didn't see it covered in this theard?
04-18-2006, 09:43 AM
#131
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Originally Posted by stage20
what year is the guage cluster you are using, this is a BIG part of the conversion.
i can get you a schematic of the plug, and you can hardwire everything yourself. all you need is a few of the correct sensors and a lil creativity. so all the stuff works.
there are bugs with anything, but its not required to have a complete harness if you are just wanting the gauges themselves to work properly.
ive got a carbed motor in my ride and all my gauges work fine with my ls1 dash swap.
good luck, LMK if you have any Q's
i can get you a schematic of the plug, and you can hardwire everything yourself. all you need is a few of the correct sensors and a lil creativity. so all the stuff works.
there are bugs with anything, but its not required to have a complete harness if you are just wanting the gauges themselves to work properly.
ive got a carbed motor in my ride and all my gauges work fine with my ls1 dash swap.
good luck, LMK if you have any Q's
thanks
darin
04-20-2006, 01:14 PM
#132
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v6 v8 tach
when i purchased my cluster for my firebird dash, i did not know i was getting a v6 cluster and know im working on the wiring. does anyone know if i can run any typ of resistor inline from the coil to the tach so that my tach will red correct. i know it would be easy to just get a new cluster, but im just about out of funds and all i need to do is finish the wiring and i will be good to go. any help would be greatly appreciated.
04-20-2006, 01:57 PM
#133
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Since it operates on a pulse signal, I'm not sure if there is a simple way - I've got an old 4-6-8 tach dissected I'll take a look at for you... If you're in a pinch, just use it "as-is" knowing it's not accurate until you can acquire a V8 setup - it WILL work, it just will read higher than actual (registering 2 more sparks per revolution than it's calibrated for).
04-20-2006, 02:06 PM
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that would be cool. i know that when you purchase an aftermarket tach they have dip switches so you can set it up for 4 6 or 8 cyl. i just thought that it changed the siginal by routing it through diff. resistors and that i could do the same.
04-21-2006, 10:43 PM
#135
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Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: 5.0 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 4L60
Ok, kind of back from the dead here. I'm putting a dash from a 95 Bird in my 91 Z28. I understand that if a 4th gen v6 cluster is used, it will have to be calibrated for a v8. How do I do that?
04-22-2006, 02:04 AM
#136
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Originally Posted by Slepewesel
I understand that if a 4th gen v6 cluster is used, it will have to be calibrated for a v8. How do I do that?
04-22-2006, 08:17 AM
#137
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally Posted by tpiroc
You're in the same pickle as shortbed... I got nowhere fast with my useless (apart and broken) Autometer tach regarding cylinder selection. I did find this, but since the 4th gen technology is newer, the article is useless... BUT, I found a solution from Dakota Digital; the SGI-8 WILL make it work, but for the cost you could nab a V8 cluster for about the same
the v8 cluster would be cheaper, as parts are easier to find than in the past.
05-13-2006, 04:14 PM
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Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
Originally Posted by tpiroc
Alright folks, as mentioned above I spend a lot of time working with this thing to plop it in just right. Before showing the results I’ll show what I modified to get what I believe to be a good fit.
Pictured below shows where the 3rd gen bracket was (outlined in red). A Dremel was used to remove the bracket. I should also note that the vertical portion of the bracket needed to be bent towards the center of the car to allow the dash to clear it and not hang on it. That was a big problem for a while and caused the passenger side to sit way too high;
Here’s a close up of the cut bracket. Outlined in red was where the bracket used to be;
This pic shows a little rougher cut, but the same region of material was removed as shown in red. Shown in GREEN is the bolt that no one seems to tangle with. Well, I removed some material from the backside of the dash and got it to rest there NATURALLY without forcing it. All four bolt holes rest naturally along the firewall lip, and also, the U-Shaped piece that bolts in with the driveline WAS used and not removed.
A little harder to see what’s going on here, but two things are. On the bottom, a U shaped notch was made to clear the 3rd gen bracket, and it slid into place. Above, the dotted outline shows where material was framing the 4th gen fuse panel. The solid lines show where more material was removed to allow the dash to sit further towards the firewall.
Alright, it’s still a big mess as I’ve not tucked any wires away yet, and still need to acquire the top pad, glovebox door, outer radio bezel, and driver’s side lower kick panel, BUT the hard part is done. I also made a custom gauge panel that took a couple days, however don’t have the other gauge, so I put an old POS gauge in (shown with red X) to temporarily fill the hole;
Sorry the pic is so dark; hopefully you get the idea;
Here’s all the better of a shot I managed to get of the gauge panel I made;
What do you guys think?
As far as the instruments go I will either get silver faced gauges or a 94-96 set (no yellow numbers), any recommendations?
Pictured below shows where the 3rd gen bracket was (outlined in red). A Dremel was used to remove the bracket. I should also note that the vertical portion of the bracket needed to be bent towards the center of the car to allow the dash to clear it and not hang on it. That was a big problem for a while and caused the passenger side to sit way too high;
Here’s a close up of the cut bracket. Outlined in red was where the bracket used to be;
This pic shows a little rougher cut, but the same region of material was removed as shown in red. Shown in GREEN is the bolt that no one seems to tangle with. Well, I removed some material from the backside of the dash and got it to rest there NATURALLY without forcing it. All four bolt holes rest naturally along the firewall lip, and also, the U-Shaped piece that bolts in with the driveline WAS used and not removed.
A little harder to see what’s going on here, but two things are. On the bottom, a U shaped notch was made to clear the 3rd gen bracket, and it slid into place. Above, the dotted outline shows where material was framing the 4th gen fuse panel. The solid lines show where more material was removed to allow the dash to sit further towards the firewall.
Alright, it’s still a big mess as I’ve not tucked any wires away yet, and still need to acquire the top pad, glovebox door, outer radio bezel, and driver’s side lower kick panel, BUT the hard part is done. I also made a custom gauge panel that took a couple days, however don’t have the other gauge, so I put an old POS gauge in (shown with red X) to temporarily fill the hole;
Sorry the pic is so dark; hopefully you get the idea;
Here’s all the better of a shot I managed to get of the gauge panel I made;
What do you guys think?
As far as the instruments go I will either get silver faced gauges or a 94-96 set (no yellow numbers), any recommendations?
05-16-2006, 02:32 PM
#139
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Car: '91 Firebird
This is how I am modifying my 4th gen AC controls. The 3rd gen setup has 5 wires, but the 4th gen only has 3. If you take the switch apart you will find crop circle looking things. I designed a new "crop circle" to work with the 5 wire system. (The 3rd gen "crop circle" would not work because it is missing the mix setting and does not turn 180 degrees).
After doing a continuity test on the 3rd gen AC control I found the following wires cross at their appropriate settings (based off the letter on the harness):
OFF: none
AC (NORM): A+B ; C+D+E
AC (MAX): A+B ; C+D+E
AC (BI-LEV): A+B ; C+D+E
VENT: D+E
FLOOR: D+E
DEFROST: C+D+E
For the 4th gen mix setting I mimicked the wiring for defrost.
The rotating piece, in gold, is another piece that must be fabricated. The rotating piece from the 3rd and 4th gen switch will not work. The overall size and shape is from the 4th gen switch, but the jumpers are from a 3rd gen switch. Unfortunately the 3rd gen switch only has 3 of these jumpers, but 4 are needed for this setup. I could not find any way to make this work with only 3 jumpers.
I will post pictures of the finished product and the CAD file later after I get everything finished.
After doing a continuity test on the 3rd gen AC control I found the following wires cross at their appropriate settings (based off the letter on the harness):
OFF: none
AC (NORM): A+B ; C+D+E
AC (MAX): A+B ; C+D+E
AC (BI-LEV): A+B ; C+D+E
VENT: D+E
FLOOR: D+E
DEFROST: C+D+E
For the 4th gen mix setting I mimicked the wiring for defrost.
The rotating piece, in gold, is another piece that must be fabricated. The rotating piece from the 3rd and 4th gen switch will not work. The overall size and shape is from the 4th gen switch, but the jumpers are from a 3rd gen switch. Unfortunately the 3rd gen switch only has 3 of these jumpers, but 4 are needed for this setup. I could not find any way to make this work with only 3 jumpers.
I will post pictures of the finished product and the CAD file later after I get everything finished.
05-16-2006, 05:52 PM
#140
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Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
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Looks good, but I think you just wasted a lot of time. I'm not sure what vaccum controller you got or if you didn't get all the pieces to it, but every 4th gen vaccum controller I've had (93,96,99, & 00) all had SIX hoses coming out of it. 5 hook up to the 5 3rd gen ones and the 6th (mix) you just cap off.
Post some pics so we can see what went wrong.
Kevin D.
Post some pics so we can see what went wrong.
Kevin D.
05-17-2006, 11:14 AM
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Car: '91 Firebird
Originally Posted by shr00m
Looks good, but I think you just wasted a lot of time. I'm not sure what vaccum controller you got or if you didn't get all the pieces to it, but every 4th gen vaccum controller I've had (93,96,99, & 00) all had SIX hoses coming out of it. 5 hook up to the 5 3rd gen ones and the 6th (mix) you just cap off.
Post some pics so we can see what went wrong.
Kevin D.
Post some pics so we can see what went wrong.
Kevin D.
05-17-2006, 06:41 PM
#142
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Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally Posted by Faded
I'm not talking about vacuum controls. I'm talking about the wiring for the AC.
Obvisouly A & B short together when the AC is needed, but C to E is what actualy tells the compressor to run. I think most either leave A & B alone or just short them together.
Don't get me wrong, I love seeing people fabricate stuff to make it a 'true' converted controller. But it just seems like a lot of work that's not needed.
Kevin D.
05-18-2006, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by shr00m
Sorry, got confused for a bit. Mainly because you would be the first person I've heard of that had to go through this. I checked the diagrams, C,D,E match up to the three wires for the 4th gen. A is ground, and B I can find absolutely no reference to.
Obvisouly A & B short together when the AC is needed, but C to E is what actualy tells the compressor to run. I think most either leave A & B alone or just short them together.
Don't get me wrong, I love seeing people fabricate stuff to make it a 'true' converted controller. But it just seems like a lot of work that's not needed.
Kevin D.
Obvisouly A & B short together when the AC is needed, but C to E is what actualy tells the compressor to run. I think most either leave A & B alone or just short them together.
Don't get me wrong, I love seeing people fabricate stuff to make it a 'true' converted controller. But it just seems like a lot of work that's not needed.
Kevin D.
05-18-2006, 07:47 PM
#144
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Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
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Sounds good to me! Get those pics up when you're finished. If I had Autocad experience plus small fabrication abilities, I would have probably done things different too!
Kevin D.
Kevin D.
05-27-2006, 03:47 PM
#145
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Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: 5.0 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 4L60
Ok, new questions about wiring up a 4th gen cluster.
I'm putting a cluster from a 94 Firebird in my 91 Z28. Did some mock wiring today (didnt want to solder anything till I KNOW it will work ...), and I have the "typical" wires from the 4th gen cluster plug left over leading to no where. TCS, Coolant level, "the thin red wire", and such.
Using my service manual for the 91 Z, and info from ALLDATA and this site, I have things wired up. 4 minor issues now ..
1. No SES light on cluster when key is turned on. ???
2. Now when I re-connect the battery, my brake lights are on for some reason.
3. Suddenly my fuel pump isnt priming. Tried to start the car and heard no whine of the pump. Cranked it for a few seconds, oil pressure gauge went up, shut it off, then I heard the pump whining. Ran like a champ 2 days ago when I parked it. Any ideas??
4. Each of the cluster plugs from the 91 have 2 ground wires. The 4th gen cluster plug has one. Do I run all 4 of those ground wires into the 1 on the 4th gen?
Brian
I'm putting a cluster from a 94 Firebird in my 91 Z28. Did some mock wiring today (didnt want to solder anything till I KNOW it will work ...), and I have the "typical" wires from the 4th gen cluster plug left over leading to no where. TCS, Coolant level, "the thin red wire", and such.
Using my service manual for the 91 Z, and info from ALLDATA and this site, I have things wired up. 4 minor issues now ..
1. No SES light on cluster when key is turned on. ???
2. Now when I re-connect the battery, my brake lights are on for some reason.
3. Suddenly my fuel pump isnt priming. Tried to start the car and heard no whine of the pump. Cranked it for a few seconds, oil pressure gauge went up, shut it off, then I heard the pump whining. Ran like a champ 2 days ago when I parked it. Any ideas??
4. Each of the cluster plugs from the 91 have 2 ground wires. The 4th gen cluster plug has one. Do I run all 4 of those ground wires into the 1 on the 4th gen?
Brian
Last edited by Slepewesel; 05-27-2006 at 03:50 PM.
05-27-2006, 05:56 PM
#146
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Car: '91 Firebird
Originally Posted by Slepewesel
1. No SES light on cluster when key is turned on. ???
2. Now when I re-connect the battery, my brake lights are on for some reason.
3. Suddenly my fuel pump isnt priming. Tried to start the car and heard no whine of the pump. Cranked it for a few seconds, oil pressure gauge went up, shut it off, then I heard the pump whining. Ran like a champ 2 days ago when I parked it. Any ideas??
4. Each of the cluster plugs from the 91 have 2 ground wires. The 4th gen cluster plug has one. Do I run all 4 of those ground wires into the 1 on the 4th gen?
Brian
2. Now when I re-connect the battery, my brake lights are on for some reason.
3. Suddenly my fuel pump isnt priming. Tried to start the car and heard no whine of the pump. Cranked it for a few seconds, oil pressure gauge went up, shut it off, then I heard the pump whining. Ran like a champ 2 days ago when I parked it. Any ideas??
4. Each of the cluster plugs from the 91 have 2 ground wires. The 4th gen cluster plug has one. Do I run all 4 of those ground wires into the 1 on the 4th gen?
Brian
2.) I had the same problem. When I took the dash out the plastic threads on the switch on the brake pedal got stripped and was backing out causing it to stay on all the time. A new brake switch is only like $10 at autozone.
3.) My car was running weird the first time I started it with my new dash too. I discovered that I missed hooking up a ground wire that was below the steering column. You may want to check for something like this.
4.) A ground is a ground. You can hook up just one or all of them. It won't make any difference.
05-27-2006, 08:57 PM
#147
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Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: 5.0 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 4L60
Originally Posted by Faded
1.) Check and make sure the bulb isn't burnt out.
2.) I had the same problem. When I took the dash out the plastic threads on the switch on the brake pedal got stripped and was backing out causing it to stay on all the time. A new brake switch is only like $10 at autozone.
3.) My car was running weird the first time I started it with my new dash too. I discovered that I missed hooking up a ground wire that was below the steering column. You may want to check for something like this.
4.) A ground is a ground. You can hook up just one or all of them. It won't make any difference.
2.) I had the same problem. When I took the dash out the plastic threads on the switch on the brake pedal got stripped and was backing out causing it to stay on all the time. A new brake switch is only like $10 at autozone.
3.) My car was running weird the first time I started it with my new dash too. I discovered that I missed hooking up a ground wire that was below the steering column. You may want to check for something like this.
4.) A ground is a ground. You can hook up just one or all of them. It won't make any difference.
2. Simple enough, i'll take a look at it later
3. Ah yes, I think I know which one you're talking about. 2 wires going into one thing (brain fart, put a bolt thru it, grounded) on the underside of the dash on the driver's side?
4. Ok, so I can hook up one of the 4 ground wires from the 91 harness into the 4th gen plug, and I'll be ok?
Oh, also, earlier when I was testing things I went to disconnect the positive cable from the battery again and it felt quite warm. Any ideas on what could be causing that?
Thanks Faded.
Last edited by Slepewesel; 05-27-2006 at 09:15 PM.
05-28-2006, 02:10 AM
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Car: '91 Firebird
Originally Posted by Slepewesel
3. Ah yes, I think I know which one you're talking about. 2 wires going into one thing (brain fart, put a bolt thru it, grounded) on the underside of the dash on the driver's side?
4. Ok, so I can hook up one of the 4 ground wires from the 91 harness into the 4th gen plug, and I'll be ok?
Oh, also, earlier when I was testing things I went to disconnect the positive cable from the battery again and it felt quite warm. Any ideas on what could be causing that?
Thanks Faded.
4. Ok, so I can hook up one of the 4 ground wires from the 91 harness into the 4th gen plug, and I'll be ok?
Oh, also, earlier when I was testing things I went to disconnect the positive cable from the battery again and it felt quite warm. Any ideas on what could be causing that?
Thanks Faded.
4. I don't remember having any third gen wires left over on my swap, but I have a Firebird. There were a couple wires left over on the 4th gen cluster though, like the shift light. Camaro wiring might be different. I don't remember how many ground wires I had to hook up. But either way, as long as every ground is hooked up on the cluster it shouldn't matter if you have any left over on the thirdgen wiring.
As for the battery cable, it is in an engine bay. Engine bays tend to be warm. But if you only had only had it running for a moment, I'm not sure what make it warm...?
05-28-2006, 07:32 AM
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Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: 5.0 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 4L60
Originally Posted by Faded
As for the battery cable, it is in an engine bay. Engine bays tend to be warm. But if you only had only had it running for a moment, I'm not sure what make it warm...?
05-28-2006, 04:21 PM
#150
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Car: 91 Camaro Z28
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Ok, some more testing.
I replaced the SES bulb with one I know is good. Still no SES light on when key is turned on.
Also, I have 2 wires from the 4th gen plug I dont know where they go. One is A13 - Orange - "Power feed from courtesy fues 8" and the other is A14 - Red - "Generator output indicator control". I dont have anything in the 91 service manual that matches these descriptions. Any help?
Thanks
I replaced the SES bulb with one I know is good. Still no SES light on when key is turned on.
Also, I have 2 wires from the 4th gen plug I dont know where they go. One is A13 - Orange - "Power feed from courtesy fues 8" and the other is A14 - Red - "Generator output indicator control". I dont have anything in the 91 service manual that matches these descriptions. Any help?
Thanks
