rust in my GTA. What to do?
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 409
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From: Manati, PR
Car: Trans Am "GTA"
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
rust in my GTA. What to do?
I've been to a bunch of bodyshops "the best ones in my area" & they dont want to even look at my car. They all tell me we dont do rust cause is a "CANCER". They all tell me the same f*****g thing, that it will come back & there is nothing to do. The only ones that say "we can do it" I feel they will do a nasty job, since they are the little getto ones.
I love my car but Im geting the impression that the best thing to do is sell it and get another.
Any words of advice?
The thing is that the car came from up north and the botom is starting to rust, there are two spots on the back fender wells & some rust on the t-tops. other than that the car is mint inside & out, the paint is beautiful cause it was allways garaged, 100K miles, & the most important thing is that I've spent so mush time and love in to it.
as you can see I dont want to sell it, but I rather stop now that $10,000 down the road.
thanks for the advice.
I love my car but Im geting the impression that the best thing to do is sell it and get another.
Any words of advice?
The thing is that the car came from up north and the botom is starting to rust, there are two spots on the back fender wells & some rust on the t-tops. other than that the car is mint inside & out, the paint is beautiful cause it was allways garaged, 100K miles, & the most important thing is that I've spent so mush time and love in to it.
as you can see I dont want to sell it, but I rather stop now that $10,000 down the road.
thanks for the advice.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Titusville Fl.
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: Tremec 3550
If the offending areas are cut out and new metal is fabricated and welded into place, I don't see how it would come back if it's properly done and properly painted. My rear hatch has a large rust spot on the inside bottom but I may just change the whole hatch instead of getting it fixed.
is it rotted through? if its through just sell the car and be done with it. i will never even think about buying a rotted car after owning my 87z28. that thing was the plague. a spot the size of a quarter turned into a dollar after 2 months and the whole quarter panel on the passangers side came off on the highway. rot isn't worth wasting the time unless your attached to the car and have the bucks to get it done correctly.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 492
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From: Aurora, ON, Canada
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 4 Spd Auto
Have you checked out any car restoration shops or custom places that are good with metal fabrication?? They should be able to do a good job.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 409
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From: Manati, PR
Car: Trans Am "GTA"
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
No is not rotted through just bubles under the paint & I allready lifted the carpet with no rust inside the car, but if you get under the car everything is rusted.
There is no restoration places here in Miami that I know, a bunch up in Orlando. But I dont have the money to pay for restoration work. they are to expencive.
There is no restoration places here in Miami that I know, a bunch up in Orlando. But I dont have the money to pay for restoration work. they are to expencive.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,228
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From: Your neighbor's hood, MD
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
Originally posted by Dzhezkov
If the offending areas are cut out and new metal is fabricated and welded into place, I don't see how it would come back if it's properly done and properly painted. My rear hatch has a large rust spot on the inside bottom but I may just change the whole hatch instead of getting it fixed.
If the offending areas are cut out and new metal is fabricated and welded into place, I don't see how it would come back if it's properly done and properly painted. My rear hatch has a large rust spot on the inside bottom but I may just change the whole hatch instead of getting it fixed.
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From: SW Chicago 'burbs
Car: American Iron Firebird
Engine: The little 305 that could.
Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
Read up on POR15 or Zero Rust and then learn to work with fiberglass. It's a beautiful thing.
Fiberglass doesn't suck up water like bondo does
Fiberglass doesn't suck up water like bondo does
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Originally posted by nape
Read up on POR15 or Zero Rust and then learn to work with fiberglass. It's a beautiful thing.
Fiberglass doesn't suck up water like bondo does
Read up on POR15 or Zero Rust and then learn to work with fiberglass. It's a beautiful thing.
Fiberglass doesn't suck up water like bondo does
I have the same problem with my t/a. I've been sanding off rust and patching holes for weeks. The guy I bought it off of had bondoed up every rust spot without grinding, and it spread underneath. Started tapping it with a mallet, and pieces came raining down.
Go out and get yourself an angle-grinder from sears. For $35, it'll save a LOT of time. grind as much as you can, and rust-treat what you can't reach. Then start with a few layers of fiberglass mat, then 2 layers of cloth. Don't be afraid to slap on the resin, since you can always sand off the excess. Then prime, seal and paint.
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