1. Anyone ever used "Xtreme" acrylic urethane primer. It's a surfacing primer made by "5 Star Autobody Products." I only need a quart of 2K and paint store was out of Omni. They said this would be compatible with PPG DBU.

2. Is SEM flexible rattle can primer ok for painting rubbery bumper filler panels. The fillers are nice, I just want to put on a coat and cover with DBU (which says a flex agent is not necessary)

3. The last time I sprayed Omni 2K primer, I guess I waited a little long between coat and near the end, the primer in the gun got real thick and wouldn't spray. If it happens again, is it OK to simply add a little automotive "primer grade" thinner to thin it out?

Thanks

 

1. No, but that doesn't really mean that it's a bad product, If you're unsure, wait till they get a new shipment of omni.
2. a)(Almost)Any 1k rattle can product is garbage... I say almost, because some of the european companies are starting to go back to a rattle can etching primer.
2. b) Anyone that tells you that flex isn't needed on these cars' fascias, is full of s##t.
3. No, I wouldn't. Stay within the parameters and you're OK. Always use the reducers required for the product in question.
Try to avoid priming in large ammounts on hot days...(I know this is the wrong time of year to be telling people this...), If you do, do it in the morning or later in the evening. and pay attention to the pot life of the mixed product... this will help you to avoid locking up your gun.

 

The PPG tech sheet actually says it doesn't need a flex agent. The primer unfortunately does, hence my willingness to consider the SEM primer. Thanks

 

yea on the bumper cover i purchased it says the same thing..."no flexagent required"....was a little sticker on the inside of it...

 

When the primer in your gun begins to gel, dump it out and clean the gun throughly. Do NOT...NOT try to add reducer/thinner to it, it will actually speed up the curing of the primer at that stage.

 

Thanks for the replies.