OK, I've narrowed down my door squeek when opening/closing to the lower hinge piece. I spray some silicon lube on the lower one, and the noise goes away for a couple days.

I took a close look at it, and I can physically see the "roller" (What's the technical term?) that the door closes on is bent downwards.

So from what I gather, I need to replace the lower door pin/bushing? And I can buy these parts from GM? Any other parts I need to replace at the same time?

I have read, and most of the reading focuses on the upper hinge and not the lower. How can I replace the lower?

So far I know that I'll need to remove the spring, then somehow remove the pin. How do I tap new bushings in place? How do I remove the old ones? How do I remove the pin (As there must be something holding the pin in place?)?

 

SEThirdGeneration Tech Board will get you started in the correct direction. Penetrate pin and bushing, get a helper to profect correct alignment with blocking under door to relieve weight. Clamp vicegripes on pin, noting direction of installation and tap out, patience is key. Also note old bushing installation and reinstall exactly as removed when replacing pin. Note, the door side hinges are welded and need not be twisted by the weight or lean hence the helper and blocking. New pins and bushings are available at Hawks I believe as well as some parts stores. paying attention to the correct sizes. Further, should the hinge be worn beyond the wear of the bushing, oversize hinge(drill out) to the next size bushing for the pin. Good Luck

 

OBTW, Get A spring compressor Tool (they hurt) to be safe. Others will chime in to help. Good Luck

 

Where is this board located?

 

Many thanks for that tip. I have a new pin and roller and I was planning to remove the door to replace the pin.

 

How exactly do I drive the pin out of the hinge - is there something at the bottom of it I have to remove first, or just pound it up?

 

Two methods I've used to remove the lower hinge pin. You can clamp a vise-grip plier tightly to the center and drive it up with a hammer and large screwdriver as a pry bar. Sometimes they are corroded too much and won't pry out that way. In that case I cut the pin in half with a die grinder or Dremel and an abrasive metal cutting blade. Once cut in half you'll be able to drive it out easier. I used these methods until I made my own special removal tool from a large c-clamp.

Just so you know, there is a metal spring clip on the pin that prevents it from coming out without forcing it. You might try prying off the clip, but I've found that forcing the pin will break it off. You'll need to un-bolt the upper hinge to get enough clearance to put in the new bushings. Any time I've replaced a lower hinge pin I'm also replacing the upper pins and bushings using the aftermarket kit I sell. When doing it along with the upper hinge you don't need to un-bolt the upper hinge. Good luck.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

Hi, by the book, use a soft-headed hammer and locking-type pliers to remove pin. Insert a bolt into the hole of the lower hinge to maintain door attachment during upper upper hinge (pin) removal. In other words, tells us tap pin up until pin clears lower part of hinge, put bolt(something) to follow the pin up to help your helper keep the door aligned, protect the paint !!!! use shop cloths and tape!!! Spring Tool GM 36604 if needed. Do the necessary 1/2 hinge at a time and take time! Good Luck lonsal has done very well and gives you his experience.

 

The purpose of the vice grips is so that the pin does not come flying out as you pry it up?

And I can't just remove the lower hinge bracket from the body once I've driven the pin out to replace the bushings?

 

BTW; South East (SE) is a valuable part of this Forum IMHO

 

The Vise-Grip pliers are used to give you something to pry on or tap with the hammer to get the door pin out. It is tough to get under the pin to tap it out due to the curvature of the door. This works most of the time.

I also use a special jack which is designed for the job. It lifts below the door, has an arm sticking up which adjusts and latches to the door latch and another adjustable arm which reaches over the top of the door to hold it steady in place. The bottom has wheels so you can open or close the door (to a point) if needed. Since you likely won't have such a tool you can use a floor jack with a rag on the saddle to lift under the door. You'll still need a friend to hold the door steady. An alternative method is to use a engine hoist (aka cherry picker) and a nylon lifting strap around the door.

Lon

 

I'm planning this project within the next couple weeks. It looks like my lower hinges have been replaced once before (they are bolted on) so my ? is would it be easier to remove the lower hinge completely to change the pin? would I still need the gm spring tool? I have a cherry picker to hold up the door with, so could I use that and change the upper bushings with the door suspended? I wish I would have done this before my new paint was ruined

 

If you're replacing lower pin & bushings only, you'll need to un-bolt the upper hinge. If you're using the upper hinge repair kit I sell to replace upper and lower pins and bushings you don't need to un-bolt the upper hinge. In both cases the job will be much easier with the GM door spring tool. You may be able to remove the spring by prying it out, but good luck getting it collapsed and reinstalled otherwise. I've been told some people collapse the spring using a bench vise and wiring the spring so it remains closed. Then somehow cutting or removing the wire after installing the spring. I can only recommend the GM spring tool method because that is the only method I've used successfully. Even the HELMS manual mentions using a spring tool for the job.

Lon

 

Is there a kit for both doors upper&lower without greesable bushings? actually im looking for the cheapest route without sacrificing all quality thanks lon

 

Yes. TDS 200370 is the standard (non-greasable) kit, $74.

Lon

 

COMPLETELY untrue!

First of all, the top hinge does not need to be touched. Secondly, its actually easier to remove the entire hinge. Couple of bolts from the inside kick panel, one on the outside, and a couple on the door. Once unbolted, lightly jack up the door and remove the whole hinge.

I replaced both my lower pins and bushings in less than a half an hour my first time. Its really pretty easy.

 

Completely untrue? Please re-read my prior post. You need to unbolt the upper hinge if you're replacing the lower hinge pin and bushings. Oh, wait you wrote that unbolting the upper hinge is necessary too! Thanks for confirming what I wrote.

I described two methods. When repairing upper and lower bushings it isn't necessary to unbolt the upper hinge, since you're grinding the heads off of the upper hinge pins and driving them out. Now does it make sense?

Lon

 

When I stated its easier to remove the hinge, I meant lower hinge. Should have been pretty obvious...

Again, you do not need to touch the upper hinge at all to replace the lower hinge pin and bushings.

 

Upper and lower hinges are welded to the door from the factory and bolted to the A-pillar. If your lower hinge was found to be bolted to both the A-pillar and door, then it was already replaced once using a new GM repair hinge. GM's repair method requires you to grind off the old hinge and drill the door using their supplied template. Consider yourself lucky if you found the hinge bolted to the door, since someone had already done the hard work. I agree it would make the job simpler if the hinge was bolted to the door.

Lon

 

this may be obvious but i have two lower pins on my doors. one closer to the inside of the car and one closer to the actual door. which one do i need to replace???

 

Hmm... It looks factory, and not a dealer modified piece. Both my 85 Z28 is this way as was the 87 TA I took the off for my car. I could have sworn only the upper hinges were welded to the door. Something to look for next time I visit the yards...

 

both are welded to the door.

 

on my 91z the lower hinges are welded.

 

CamaroRUS, get a helper, create movement of door to pinpoint the precise worn hinge location. I believe lower most times and if it is determined the door side welded half hinge is the problem, get the hinge and pin in its proper position, spot weld the pin on the bottom to the door side half. In other words the pin becomes part of the door half hinge and rotates with the door. Lube well and Good Luck, works for me.

 

good idea, never thought of that before. i might actually end up taking the door off totally thought because its pretty nasty inside that little gap!
thanks for the advise

 

good idea, never thought of that before. i might actually end up taking the door off totally though because its pretty nasty inside that little gap!
thanks for the advise

 

Its a way to correct the problem until a more suitable time to replace the entire hinge assembly. I understand removing the entire door from the body with all the power equipment requires panel, handles etc grinding, drilling, taping, painting and trying to avoid further damage is a time nightmare. Mine had 1/4 in gouges in the grd FX from that badly worn hinge. I'm not sure how long it will last as about 7 mos has passed, working good as almost new. Good Luck

 

I replaced my lower hinge bolt , didnt work. I replaced the top hinge bolts, didnt work. Now i gota spend another $25 on a TDS's tool that says it will bend my hinge back into place. If this doesnt work, i give up on my thirdgen

 

Just got done fixing my worn out hinge pins on the driver side door. I thought it was just the bottom hinge pin bushing that was worn out. Wrong! Good thing I had bought the top pins also (Thanks Lon!).
The worst part was getting the top pins out, lots of grinding with a dremel tool. No damage to the hinges, just worn out bushings top and bottom and worn lower pin.

 

I wish my upper hinge bushings were in that good of shape! When I knocked my upper pins out all I saw was some powdery substance. Bushings were GONE! Luckily the hinge hole was not to "out of round". I got the upper hinge kit from TDS and the end result is amazing. It was a tough job though. I think I pulled a tube trying to carry the door around! Things gotta weigh 100#s!