riotcow

AHH...you found me O.o

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Actually I was replying to Crossfire and didnt see your post

Crux

Wow..the method seems pretty crazy but the results look amazing.

My brother told me I could try this with his old corolla since he's got a new truck now.

YES! And also, the guy I bought my camaro from gave me an irocz hood and spare rear hatch. Though I don't need either of the two at the moment..maybe I could paint the hood black. I don't know how the black hood would look with my car. Mine has a bright metallic red on it...but..it looks burgundy at night.

I'm glad I found this..it'll be really interesting to try out. The tranny and suspension is out on the old corolla and the paints a bad, faded red anyway. It's just a test subject.

I'll probably roll it on, though.

One question, though..I keep getting mixed info:
with the rust-oleum, do I have to prime the car?

Here's my car with the corolla in the background:

85berlinetta2.8

can you roll on anything with a metal flake in it? i want to roller my brown camaro in the cheapest auto paint i can get, omni. but i suppose you cant wetsand it am i right?

JRods Firebird

Well it looks like ILL be trying this stuff out. I still need to paint my 68 charger and with my budget already gone this is looking real good. Also Im also thinking of changing my firebirds color to black and maybe do a kitt replica. Will C

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

I'm pretty sure you don't need to, I didn't. People have suggested that if you do any bondo work, then spray that area with primer. Only because the bondo will soak in a couple coats of the rust-oleum paint.

As far as rolling it with metal flake, Ive only heard that it can not be done. But thats just what I've heard.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Riotcow, I don’t see how you’re making the “might as well” leap where we’re talking about something on the order of a 20x difference in cost. For that matter, synthetic enamel I synthetic enamel. You might be able to convince me that there is a difference in quality between rustolium and omni, but not nearly that much of a difference.

Primer- not really, the stuff is supposed to be fine straight over bare metal, though probably more durable with a primer. If you check out some of the original cars done like this on the ‘net, you’ll see that they were sanded, with everything from bare metal, to sanded paint, to bodywork all under the same layers of topcoat and you really can’t tell the difference.

Metallics… the mica that is used to make the metallic look is flat, and lays down different depending on where in the paint layer it is and how it was put down. When spraying the stuff you can get it to sit totally different with a small change in gun pressure, and the mica laying in different directions can change how light the color looks, or even make it look like ea different color. Then if you try to sand the stuff, the paint and the mica are different hardness AND you might grind down one side of the mica changing it’s shape, again, causing color and lightness variations. So the thing is with this procedure, rolling the stuff out and than sanding it flat… I’d be shocked if you could get a car full of metallic rolled out and sanded evenly… though there is only one way to figure out for sure.

JRods Firebird

Now on my firebird it does need a bit of body work but can I sand the clear coat and roll on the rustoleam stuff over it or what. I really didnt want to take it to bare metal. I already have to do that to my charger.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

83 Crossfire TA: I read the whole moparts part one, and I distinctly remember someone trying metallics. You can't sand it to look good. You either lay it perfect with a gun, or you give up on doing metallics this way. That's probably the sole reason that my car isn't covered in Rusto yet. I like my dark red metallic too much to let it go.

JRod: I think you'll be fine over scuffed up paint. Can't recall what grit you should hit it with to have good adhesion though.

Edit:
Here is the link to the guy that had a major success with his MX-5 Miata. He used Pro quality polishing and buffing equipment on the rusto paint. Or was it Tremclad 'cause he's an Aussie. Can't remember.
http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5199

Ah yea, he couldn't get Rusto or Tremclad, and went with his local hardware store version. Didn't work. Ended up using the International Brightside boat paint that they used in the following moparts threads. Really should read the others. So much info there.

JRods Firebird

Well for grit of sanding paper maybe like a 80 on a DA and then something more finer like a 320 then go a bit higher. Not a 100% but will try to find out.

GeeJenn91RSV8

I sanded my car down with 220 then finished up with 320 then started rolling the paint on. You may be able to see some sanding marks after you lay down your 1st coat but after your 2nd or 3rd coat they will be gone.

JRods Firebird

Geejenn do you have any pics of your finshed product by any chance.

GeeJenn91RSV8

Here's two pics. I'm pretty happy with it. I may be repainting it though. I think my paint was to thick when I put it on(not enough mineral spirits). Also they say to wetsand between evey two coats but If I redo it I will wetsand between each coat, this will be a good way eliminate possible orange peel. I used rustoleum on this one I may try brightside next time.

JRods Firebird

You cant best it, That still looks great. So did you scuff up the body and paint or did you take it down to bare metal.

GeeJenn91RSV8

I sanded the entire car smooth, then put the paint on. Lay it down thin. Orange peel is your worst enemy. Make sure you get rid of it before laying down any more paint.

JRods Firebird

so when you say orange peel is your enemy then wet sanding between coats should stop that. RIGHT

Jassack

iTrader: (2)

80?!?!?! Thats seems a little drastic. try more like a 120 and then go to 320...it will make your life a lot easier than using up all that 320 sandpaper....and personally i would just jump to 320 off the bat...you just need to get the surface nice and scuffed so its not really necessary to start low. IMO.

JRods Firebird

well my only reason for the 80 grit would be to repair some areas with filler then hit it with 80 and then a 320 and prime and then paint over that.

Jassack

iTrader: (2)

ok that makes a little more sense to me

GeeJenn91RSV8

Yes, just make sure you wet sand all of it out. If you keep putting layers of paint over orange peel you are going to have a hell of a time getting rid of it in the end. Almost forgot to mention, when you lay your paint down you will produce bubbles in the paint, don't panic as long as your paint is thin enough these bubbles should pop and the paint will level out.

JRods Firebird

I wonder whats the best ratio of mineral spirits to paint.

GeeJenn91RSV8

I mixed mine 1 pint of paint to a half pint of mineral spirits. I know I was to thick. If I repaint my car I think I'm going to try 1 to 1. But I don't know because brightside may mix different than rustoleum. They say you want it to be as thick as milk. I wonder what ratio Rich92 RS used.

Red_Dragon_91

iam gonna ry this on my truck, so just do a lil sanding then mix it 50/50 roll on the paint then wet sand and repeat 7-8 times and your done?? so this paint can be found at lowes right? can i also get the mineral spirits there? anybody got pics of what these cans look like

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

The brightside miata used two coats, unthinned. Straight out of the can.

Red_Dragon_91

can i get that at lowes or home depot

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

Thats correct. I've heard that the ratios can vary from color to color. My mixture was pretty much 50/50 maybe alittle more on the mineral spirits side.

A good idea is to mix together as much as you think your going to need, and store it in a glass jar or something you can get air tight. So you don't need to keep mixing up a new batch. Also remember DO NOT shake up the rust-oleum paint or else you'll have air bubble that take weeks to go away, just stir it.

92WhiteZ28

iTrader: (1)

hey, i have my iroc sitting at my house lol, if u wanted something to experiment on.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Huh, any idea what metallic paint they used? I read the original threads a long time ago, but now there are so many that I haven’t found anything about metallics yet.

I really want to stay with a dark red metallic also, so I’m in the same boat as you, and I probably won’t roll it out anyway, it’s just a matter of finding some good paint that I like the color of. I have considered mixing a little black with the rustolium red and then adding some metal flake and seeing how it turns out, but I haven’t done it yet.

The Interlux Brightside that some of the threads are talking about is actually a proper polyurethane. I’ve used their clear stuff to refinish composite canoes and kayaks before. It actually bothers me that none of them have actually used Interlux’s “special thinner” for spraying or the slow thinner for brushing, they actually have specific products for exactly the use that we’re talking about that are not that much more expensive than buying cheap mineral spirits.

Lastly, for people having issues with drying/hardening… like I’ve already mentioned, as a whole, it looks like mineral spirits makes this stuff dry slower, and acetone just the opposite, makes it dry faster and harder. I’ve found that stuff that I used at least a little acetone in ended up drying harder than without, and I suspect that if you want it to dry like normal automotive enamel, from what I’ve seen all you have to do is use the same hardener that you’d use for the automotive enamel.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I believe they used the Rusto/Tremclad Silver Metallic. It looked decent (few runs and orange peel) until they tried to wetsand it. Then it looked awful. I think it was a dude who did it on a truck. Might have even cut it with a color to get a specific metallic. Didn't work.

I also recall 69chargeryeehaa saying that he had tried metallics, and gave pretty much the same explanation you did, just less technical.

JRods Firebird

If you were closer then would love to experiment on your car. Wish I could at least have you weather up here. lolo

JRods Firebird

Well not this is for sure now. Yesterday and Removed the car cover off of my bird to do some patch work on the birds floor. I didnt see this until after working on the car and the hood dryed off and saw that the cover rubbed the hell of the hood and other locations through out. I just about lost it. Try to remove with some 3m compond but was unable to correct it. SO I will be painting my bird in the spring with rustoleam paint.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Maybe this has already been posted, but kirkerautomotive.com has some cheap metallics in urethane, acrylic enamel / base coat. It is worth taking a look at.

JRods Firebird

You know I was thinking bout the front and rear bumpers on my bird. That they are plastic and I dont believe if you can paint them with the Rustoleam paint thats made for metal. Any input on this.

GeeJenn91RSV8

It won't be a problem. I have'nt had any issues with mine. Paint them up!

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

With the current feedback about the International Brightside, I'd be more willing to try that than the rusto. That damn Miata looks FINE.

I guess the downside is colors. If I ever get a bird, I'll get a hard top and paint it Brightside white.

GeeJenn91RSV8

Mine is down in rusto now but I will be repainting with brightside. Brightside is more durable and has better UV qualities.

JRods Firebird

Whats this brighside stuff and can you roll it on like the Rusto.

Gibson27

iTrader: (1)

Brightside is made by interlux. It's a polyurethane marine paint with teflon added to it, has better shine, better resistace to rust and salt, uv exposure and all that jazz,

I am still wondering if it's worth doing this myself, since i need a paint job and $2000 will be spent on parts and not paint.

boss roc

hey guys im doing this right now as we speak i am using 1 to 1 ratio of mineral spirits to rustoleums sunburst yellow that i had home depot darken up with black eny questions pm me

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

I hope they didn't shake it up. Did they?

GeeJenn91RSV8

If they shook it up, how bad was the bubbles in the paint? Did you use the paint right away or did you let it sit to release any bubbles?

JRods Firebird

WIll you be taking pictures of the entire process or what.

Green Goblin

Well this was my attempt at the Roller Method, I am alot happier with how it looks now. I would recommend you have alot of time and alot of patience for this project. I don't think I will be trying it again.

FYRCHKN

I started this project this morning at about 10 AM. I'm currently waiting for the paint to dry so I can wet sand it. I'm only doing the hood, fenders, and nose at the moment since they needed the most attention.

Here's the link to my local club site where you can see my progress so far: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/forum/...showtopic=3212

Green Goblin

I started with just wanting to paint the front lower ground effect. Before I knew it the car was in peices. LOL
Good luck though it's a pretty inexpensive alternative with not bad results.

JRods Firebird

that looks good, so whats the reason not doing it again.
----------
so you painted the GFX with metal paint. Any issues with that. Being they are plastic.

Green Goblin

The job was pretty easy just time consuming. With the Car being Green I had to do 16 coats with wet sanding in between each coat. I did lay it down really thin though, my mixture was approx. 50 / 50. I suppose I would try it again on a project with similar colors and the body would have to be in better shape.

GeeJenn91RSV8

Damn! 16 coats, I would imagine that wetsanding in between each coat had a lot to do with that. I bet you did'nt have a lot of orange peel to deal with though. But yes very time consuming.

JRods Firebird

WOW, 16 coats and wetsanding in between them. Your arms got to look like popeyes arms.
So being my bird is a dk maroon, painting it black should be to bad. Again no issues painting the plastic parts. Wet percentage was the wetsanding 1500 or higher. Also after each wetsanding did you use a prep clean solution then painted again. I need to know because in a few wks Im going to paint my bird. So any info would be great.

GeeJenn91RSV8

When I repaint my car I will be wetsanding in between each coat. I'm gonna have to go 1500 grit, but for my last two coats I will probabaly go 2000. Anything less than 1500 in between coats might take your last coat right off since it is so thin(mainly on the corners were the paint is the thinnest)So if your not putting so many coats on.