How do you get them to fit right?

So it seems like every 3rd gen that I’ve ever seen has had the rear hatch misaligned, usually at the very least sticking out further back then it should. Where is it actually moving, at the hinge points or where the end panel connects to the glass or ???

What I find amazing is that my project car has sat with the hatch unlatched for a few months now and it’s moved enough that the hatch won’t actually latch right now

I spent a good long time trying to fix this on my 83 _years_ ago and ended up having to bend the studs on the end panel and finally even bending the lip on it’s end, above the taillights slightly tighter, but I have to believe that these things actually fit like they were originally made at some point…

 

that's a good question. My passenger side sticks way further back than it should. I tried changing the position of the upper hinges, but there isn't nearly enough play in there to make up for the gap. I plan to adjust where the decklid mounts to the glass. I haven't done it yet, but I have to figure that the gas struts pushing on the decklid over the years caused the decklid to slide back further on the glass. I took a decklid off a parts car several years ago, and believe there are slotted holes in the glass to allow forward and backward adjustment.

 

I had the thing apart the other day and there is very little adjustment at the hinges but quite a bit at where the hatch panel is bolted down. What I couldn’t figure out was how to adjust the angle… no matter what I do (and I believe that I’ve mentioned this before) the front of that hatch panel where it meets the glass sits lower (on all my 3rd gens) then the back or the sides of the hatch opening. I keep trying to figure out if there is some way to shim it up so it sits correctly.

 

I had the same problem with my '87. I ended up adjusting everything!

First off, my lift struts were different, so I replaced those. I got a good price for Monroe brand through www.rockauto.com.

Next, I removed the rear hatch cover/spoiler area and then loosened the upper hinge bolts to align the glass with the body. (The lift struts must be disconnected).

Third, I re-attached the hatch cover/spoiler, making sure to align the corners, spacing. Be sure to seal it up properly. Buy a large tube through the parts store to put into the caulk gun.

Finally, one of my corners was still higher on one side, despite raising or lowering the adjuster buttons. All I had to do next was loosen the actual hatch release/latching mechanism by removing the inside rear panel. Then I had my wife sit on the back hatch applying pressure/weight, so I could crawl back inside the car to tighten those bolts. Re-install hatch lifts - Done.

The hatch lifts will want to force the corners upward, but because of the new adjustment, all you have to do is adjust the height of those rubber stopper adjusters to your liking.

 

Constant pressure of the shocks onto the hatch moves it outward, I had that same problem before.

 

Interesting thread here...i also have a problem with the alignment of thy hatch

 

Any more input on the subject?

 

I just replaced my old, weak struts for ones I bought off ebay. Even with the extra weight of the spoiler and rear wiper these struts are a little over-kill (got to be carefull not to let the hatch knock me in the chin when it flies open!).

The thing is, the hatch alignment was near perfect before. Now it sits 1/4" back behind the quarter panels (evenly on both sides at least). I was about to try to adjust the sheet metal portion when it occurred to me that I would have to break the bead of RTV to do it. As I didn't have sufficient time to re-seal it properly, I opted to adjust the striker so that it would at least latch.

I almost wanted to put my old ones back on but I'm tired of gettin' it in the head every time it's a little cool outside!

I have yet to run a hose over ot to see if this shift has caused any leaks.
Jon

JSD MOD

 

You replaced the hatch struts and now the lip of the spoiler is further rearward? That is awkward! Are you sure that because the new struts are stronger (I do agree that they are an over-kill) they are putting added pressure on what might be loose hatch hinges? That is the only thing that would cause the entire hatch to shift rearward.
Removing the rear hatch deck for realignment is not something that takes an hour. The most time consuming part of it is properly removing all of the old sealant which is a pain in the butt.
Best of luck and good times.

 

Hmm..haven't checked the hatch hinges. But I've never noticed any play that might indicate that they are loose. I'll have a look and see. Thanks for the idea.
Jon

 

Mine used to stick out to far past the rest of the spoiler. I messed with it a while and couldnt figure it out, then I figured out what to do. I loosened the bolts at the top on both sides then had some one push the hatch up in the back so that it slides in and hold it there then i tightened them why they held it in place, shut it and it was perfect.

 

I had to adjust my hinges to straighten it out. It takes time, loosen a bit, tighten a bit, loosen a bit, tighten a bit. goes faster if you have a buddy help you out. but over time it will shift again.

 

Sorry, do you mean the hinge bolts or the bolts that retain the sheet metal to the glass?

 

check out my threat

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...oration-2.html

i pulled mine apart, get yourself another set of hands, theirs 3 places to adjust, where the hinges attach to the body, where the hinges attach to the glass, and the deck lid itself.

take it apart, and put her back together, just don't drop the rear glass think it weighs something like 200lbs.

 

Thanks everybody. I know this is an old thread...But, we have the same problem. Our back hatch has a big gap between the glass and the roof. Also, our spoiler sticks out about 3/8 of an inch from the back. I hear this is a big problem with 3rd gens. Thanks to this forum, we will take care of this soon. Another project!!!