Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

DAMNNNN. Your dealer did you dirty. Do you still got the service reciept? If so, threaten them with the BBB (Better Business Bureau) and small claims court. Im sure they will make it right for you. My 2 cents.

florida_gators

iTrader: (2)

The problem is that this happened either in 2004 (when a lady with a suspended license hit that corner of my car while making a right turn from the left lane in front of me) or 1998 when a drunk driver took off the left side of my car while it was parked on a street. I'm sure most of us restoring our cars have had those moments when we start a teardown and realize the body shop cut corners and did a crap job. Frustrating thing is that both times I took it to the dealer thinking they would do the job right. Guess not...

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Did anybody ever find a solution for this? I have this happening a little on my front bumper and I want to get it taken care of before it gets painted.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

A good solution would be worth a shot. Apply heat with a heat gun from the backside. Now don't concentrate on one spot for too long or you'll melt the plastic. Periodically remove the heat and with something flat and flexible, push the inside to make the sinking panels push out. Keep doing this until you are satisfied to both sides. Now when both sides are done, get some course sand paper and scuff up the inside of the panels. This scuffing is for the next step. Once the inside is scuffed, then apply fiberglass sheets across the inside of the bumper and apply the other junk that hardens. Then let the fiberglass cure and you'll be done. Then fiberglass is light weight and very durable. The scuffing is of course so that the fiberglass can have a base to adhere to without detaching. I haven't don't it but I can assume that it would help.

micktroup2

Back in the 1970's we used to use garden hose as reinforcement. Building a T-bucket, the fiberglass bodies in those days were not the thickest. You would take a length of garden hose and fiberglass it around the inderside of the lip that ran around the top edge of the body. This gave it stiffness, but was still flexible enough that it would not break off or crack the body in the event of your fat *** friend sitting on the edge or leaning against the body.
You could use the same method to attach ribs behind the panels. I would think just fiberglassing sheets behind it would make it TOO stiff and subject to delamination in the event you pressed on it too hard, say when you are working on the car or under the hood for some reason. Just an idea...

white gold 88

I'd try the Q-pads with the metal backing. Wouldn't be rigid, however may not be strong enough to hold either. I haven't tried it so don't cuss me if you do and it doesn't work LOL Just an idea.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Fiberglass cloth sounds like a good idea. I am just wondering how well it would bond to the bumper.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Thats why you should scuff the backside of the bumper cover, so that the resin can have a rough surface to hold on to. Same idea applies to a punctured tire. Before they apply the rubber cement, they usually get a grinder with a stone and scuff up the intended patch area so that the rubber cement seep into the little scratches and create a good grasping effect.

white gold 88

Why not use 3M 4240 or some other bumper repair material? It may not be recommended for metal but scratch it up and trap it between the bumper and adhesive/repair material.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Good point. Could be a permanent fix. Just scuff the metal sheet to promote adhesion. But still you would have apply heat to reform the sunken plains of the bumper to relieve the tension of the already distorted plastic. I don't know how to deal with fiberglass but you just gave me a great idea. I think liquid nails could do the trick aswell. Liquid nails+heatgun+shear metal metal+course grit sand paper. That should be everything needed. This method could possibly reform the sinking sections of the headlight cups too. Mine are distorted aswell.

white gold 88

I remember in the 80's the NASCAR teams were using bracing and foam to keep the shape of rubber bumpers on the track. The foam was used for support and aerodynamics, it kept the air from traveling up in the opening behind the bumper as NASCAR wouldn't let them run a shield below the bumper. One concern about this whole process that I have is the heat generated by ANY adhesive. It could be bad for the paint on the top side. Good luck with whatever you try

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

I know crazy glue creates heat as well as some epoxies. But I don't think liquid nails does. I could be wrong though. Either way, one way to combat heat is just after applying chemicals that create any type of heat is by running water over the section being worked on.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

I am having the car repainted, so I am not concerned about the paint. I hope the material doesn't distort even more from the heat.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

I think some are missing the point here. If we put adhesive on a etched metal plate, and apply it behind the bumper, how is the plastic gonna distort when there is gonna be a metal plate glued to the plastic? He plate will keep it from bending. I think it'll be fine. As for paint, well mine needs a new paint job anyway.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

I'm gonna start a new thread to find out who built the NASCAR Camaro. Hopefully I can get some leads so that we can contact any of the builders. Call me crazy but hell, it's worth a shot right?

white gold 88

I believe the closest thing to a NASCAR Camaro would have been the IROC series. I believe at that time they were using fiberglass bodies on those cars. They never used the Camaro's for the Busch or Cup series.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

There's gotta be someone on TGO that knows the low down on the race car.

white gold 88

IIRC the race cars were built similar to a ASA or ARCA car by one of the teams. Can't remember which but I do remember the way those things flew apart, were definately fiberglass or SMC. Pretty sure they were glass. Wish my memory was better LOL

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

It would be cool to somehow find out how they built those bumper covers so that I or we can begin to build our own. I mean the problem is farly common. If I'm able to produce them, then sell them at a low price ( not like other crackhead companies that price gouge), then I'd say I'm in business.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

I'm sure a metal fabricating company can do it. But I would hate to know how much they would charge.

white gold 88

You could use your bumper as a mold and make one yourself. Lots of work but I believe someone makes them for drag cars. Think I saw one at the show at Rockingham NC last month.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Oooohhhhh. Good point man!!!!!! Off to see some YouTube videos and try to identify some drag racers. Gonna try to contact one of them to see if they will lead me to the right direction. Thanks for the idea man.

nosajwols

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem, I also just removed all the paint from the bumper (getting ready to paint the car). I was wondering, instead of metal how about gluing/bonding plexiglass (or lexan) to the backside?

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

How about if the bumper is filled from the top with flexible body filler for bumpers? My bumpers have looked like that for years, and I doubt they will sink anymore. Also, adding material to the top will thicken the area making it stronger.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

You could use some sort of plastic. But a metal sheet is flexable and will not dry rot like plastic.
This is also a good idea but what is a rock is thrown up from the car I front and hits the bumper cover? You'll end up with a large pitted hole or even worst, a 1" dimple from the filler breaking away.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

My bumpers aren't sinking that much. It is very slight. I don't think a rock is going to crack the filler. The stuff is made for flexible bumper cover repairs, and is not Bondo. Hopefully I can take the cover off this week to get a good look at the back of it. If I can heat it up a bit and push it back the way it belongs, I could reinforce it from the back. It is probably still going to need to be smoothed out from the front also.

rusty vango

as im a wood worker by trade i made some braces out of white oak,and after wedging them in place they put a slight outward pressure on the trouble spots,thus keeping them held up/out.works great and you cant see them

FNFAL308

iTrader: (1)

You can get sheet fiberglass at lowes and home depot in the shower parts dept. It is about 1/8 thick and used for shower walls.

Cut it with metal snips or cut it with a box cutter and break over a table edge. Layer before putting it on it if you need thicker stuff. 4 foot by 8 foot sheet is cheap - less than $20.

As far as attaching to the bumper - you are on your own.

Gearheads

l fix mine with the expanding foam. I made blocks of it ina box lined with thin grocery bags the cut and fitted it under the the areas and resting on the existing bumper supports. It took a few tries but the end result was great. Had to make the block somewhat oversized to account for compression.