Okay, this isnt a third gen, but i still need some opinions on this. My friend lost some paint on the side of his stratus (i know, i know) in an area right on the corner of the bumper. Small area, about two inches.... We are putting touch up paint on it today, but i think if i brush clear coat on over it, its gonna look whacked. Should i just do the touch up paint? Or should we do the touch up clear coat too, mindyou, we obviously arent going for show room, or wed get it done right.

 

My experience has shown that the touchup paint won't match anyway

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1992 GTA (226 made), 1 of only 18 "Dk. Jade Gray Met. Primar" 92 GTA's, Window Sticker, 305 TPI, 700R4 4-Speed, T-Tops, Grey Leather, every option except rear disk brakes (Oh well, makes it 1 of a kind), and CD.
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[This message has been edited by 92GTA (edited October 15, 2000).]

 

If you can find a paint shop that can match paint, you'll be set. Look around a bit...I found a place that matched my 11 year old paint job perfectly!!

I wouldn't bother with the clearcoat...thats gonna be a lotta work, and may be easy to screw up too...

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Jason E
'89 Camaro RS 2.8
Hypertech chip/2 K&N filters/Accel 8.8 wires/RapidFires
Eclipse CD and 100x4 amp/Boston 746 4x6 plates and RX 6x9 3 ways/ALL Monster's goodies
Alpine Alarm w/ Keyless entry
IROC tailights/tinted windows

 

They also sell the color-match touch-up paint in a spray can. That would be a much better bet then using the brush. You can also buy, from the same people, spray-on clear-coat.

Make sure to match the paint code of the car. Pep Boys and other places usually have a chart hanging next to the paint that gives you the "exact" factory color.

If you want a better look, pick up a pack of 320 grit sandpaper. Put a small piece of wood behind the sandpaper to keep it flat, and lightly scuff the surface where you'll paint. This'll give the new paint a good "bite", and you can also blend in the sharp jagged edge where the paint was lost.

If you want to mess around even more, get a pack of 1000-up grit paper. Mask off the repair area, and shoot the paint (2-3 thin coats). When it's dry, remove the masking tape. When it's extremely dry, go back with the 1000-1500 grit paper, and while running the hose over the area, use a block of wood behind the paper, and try to thin down the "overlap" of your "new" paint and the "original" paint.

I bet that's more than ya wanted to know- good luck!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards