Roof Skin questions
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: West Phoenix, AZ
Car: 01 Z28 / 85 TA
Engine: 346 /355 V8
Transmission: 4L60E /700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 / 9bolt 3.27
Roof Skin questions
I have a couple questions regarding the thirdgen roof skin. I cut a donor roof off a junkyard car and now I'm working on removing just the roof skin (from the donor roof) with the intention of swapping it on to my 92.
What do I do to separate the roof skin from what is left of the quarter panel? I've already sanded down to the brass line. If I sand/grind away the brass will I find spot welds to drill out (similar to the back and front) or is the whole thing literally held together by the brass brazing? I realize I could also just cut it with a cut-off wheel, but I want to see if there are any other options before I do so.
From searching, it sounds like the A-pillar skins and the roof skin are the same piece of stamped sheet metal (no seams to find and drill spot welds). If that's the case, then where would be the best spots to section the roof skin from the A-Pillar skins?
What do I do to separate the roof skin from what is left of the quarter panel? I've already sanded down to the brass line. If I sand/grind away the brass will I find spot welds to drill out (similar to the back and front) or is the whole thing literally held together by the brass brazing? I realize I could also just cut it with a cut-off wheel, but I want to see if there are any other options before I do so.
From searching, it sounds like the A-pillar skins and the roof skin are the same piece of stamped sheet metal (no seams to find and drill spot welds). If that's the case, then where would be the best spots to section the roof skin from the A-Pillar skins?
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Joined: May 2009
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From: Conway SC
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 385
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Re: Roof Skin questions
Usually replacing a roof with a used one I use inner parts from donor roof. Deskinning a roof to use is tough without warping the p out of it. Your best bet IMO for the skin section would be to butt it up and use a splice under it. You won't be able to get a splice under all of it but it will help out where you can. I wouldn't try to put it back at the factory splice, easier somewhere else.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 260
Likes: 3
From: West Phoenix, AZ
Car: 01 Z28 / 85 TA
Engine: 346 /355 V8
Transmission: 4L60E /700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 / 9bolt 3.27
Re: Roof Skin questions
Is this for the A-pillar portion, sail panel portion or both? It sounds like you're saying I'm better off leaving the braze line alone and cutting above it? When you say "splice" are you referring to the technique where a piece of metal is placed behind a butt joint, effectively turning it into a lap joint or something else?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 744
Likes: 1
From: Conway SC
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 385
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Re: Roof Skin questions
Yes, use a backer or splice on both posts. The A pillar is tougher because it folds around like a door skin. Cut below the factory seam on the B post, above would be too close to the top of the roof. You can try and split that factory splice but it usually doesn't work too well. How did you get the roof unfolded from the sides? Why are you just replacing the skin, rust or dents?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 260
Likes: 3
From: West Phoenix, AZ
Car: 01 Z28 / 85 TA
Engine: 346 /355 V8
Transmission: 4L60E /700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 / 9bolt 3.27
Re: Roof Skin questions
Rust in the windshield channel. I made patches for rust on the a-pillar skins that have worked out fine, but the roof patch panel I tried was so big that duplicating the factory curvature was a pain.
For unfolding the a-pillar seams, I made a couple tools by heating cheap sacrificial screw drivers, bending them 180 degrees and then sharpening them (http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=4189.0). I used the tools to bend back the fold while supporting the factory bend line with a dolly.
For unfolding the a-pillar seams, I made a couple tools by heating cheap sacrificial screw drivers, bending them 180 degrees and then sharpening them (http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=4189.0). I used the tools to bend back the fold while supporting the factory bend line with a dolly.
Last edited by ChainHartMachin; Jul 8, 2012 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Added hyperlink
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 832
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From: Lawrence KS
Car: 91 z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42
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From: ND
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 6.0L LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
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