I actually only took the bad areas down to metal with 80 and the DA. The areas where the paint was in good shape I sanded with 220 on my dewalt orbital sander. I'll put a link up on my thread for pics. Roughly half the car went down to metal and it took forever too.

 

wow just flipped through the pics looks good. you covered the whole car with epoxy primer? thats ok to do over paint still?

 

 

so went out and bought the gallon of aircraft stripper today and tried that instead of the spray can stripper and wow its so much stronger! fumes wise, doesnt seem to work a whole lot better brushed on rather than sprayed on.

also found some filler on the front edge of the fender and some filler over a small dent in the door which i can live with. but i was disapointed to find alof of what i think is glazing putty all over the door that i sanded down. is that really necessary? i mean being a black car i suppose they wanted to make sure it was straight too. im almost afraid to strip the quarter panel and see what ill find. should i just scuff and repaint over the existing paint? its already been repainted once this way.

 

Just sand it really good with some 220, get all the scratches and rock chips out, put a few coats of urethane primer on it, block it with 220 then 320, then put a few coats of urethane over that, considering your paint really is not in that bad of condition, you honestly do not need to take all of it down to bare metal unless you want to. Just take an orbital sander with some 180 or 220, sand it really good and smooth, any rust areas, take all the way to the metal with 80 grit, then put 3 coats of urethane primer, put a guide coat on it, block it with 220, if you want to go back over with 320 on a block, fill in any dents and get them smooth, then put 3 coats of urethane over that, put a guide coat on it again, then take a flexible block with some 600 and wetsand it smooth

 

Just going from the pics, I would say stripping to metal is overkill for this car... I agree with dct1995. Just because you have done half of it, you could stop right there and sand the rest.


Josh, generally speaking, the only time you really NEED to strip a car to metal is if the paint on it has failed, eg. peeling CC or if the car already has many coats of paint on it. You will have to redo all that filler work that was done and get the car straight again. They probably skimmed the whole panel with glaze to get it nice and straight. You may be able to do the same thing with several coats of high build primer and a good blocking.

Yes epoxy primer is fine over old paint. ETCH primer is not. Alot of people confuse the two.

Epoxy is what I would recommend whether you strip it or just sand it down with 220 on the orbital. It will seal the old paint/ or metal and give you a new foundation to build on.

Epoxy is the only primer I am using on mine, it sticks like glue and builds and sands very well IMO. BUT, my car is straight with only a few dings and I dont need alot of build to get it straight.

 

OH! For God's sake make sure you get ALL that stripper residue off the car 100%!!! Any that is left in nooks and crannies will attack the new paint!!!

 

Well lesson learned then I guess! No need to strip it I just thought id make it easier in the end but I was wrong. Ill finish stripping the door and getting all the old stripper residue off and just start feathering all the chips and small rust spots and get it all ready for epoxy primer. I have decided to buy the summit brand epoxy as the reviews I have read on it seem good and for $100 for a gallon with catylist how can I go wrong.

 

Josh when you sand with the orbital keep it nice and flat on the surface and try to sand everything evenly. If it were mine I would get some 80 grit for the orbital and go over all the bare metal areas quickly with it before epoxy. so, 220 on the painted areas and 80 on metal.

You didnt do a bad thing stripping the car, we all do more work than is necessary sometimes when trying to learn something new. I know I definitely did on my Nova... As long as you get to the end and it turns out nice, it will be worth the aggravation.

You have alot of work ahead, just be prepared for it. Do alot of research and ask questions. There's a reason painters hate black cars...lol. They are tough to get right, just take your time and keep working until you get each step the best you can and you'll be fine.

 

AGREED on getting everybit of that stripper off! I had to take my car pretty much down to metal with 80 grit, if you look at the old pics you will know why. And the best way to learn is to do it yourself and like MYFIRSTZ said, make sure to keep orbital flat, don't turn on the side. it will dig in and make impressions in the paint, there are a few in mine

 

Thanks for the info guys.

Ive got a small update,although i had a 4 day weekend i really didnt get much done until today. i started today removing the front bumper cover that i found was an original GM cover not an aftermarket like i though so ill be keeping that and stripping it down soon and repairing it. I did more sanding on the door, quarter and roof and scuffed the fender down once more and cleaned it multiple times before covering it with some etching primer





Also dented in the cracked roof portion where these cars like to flex and i will be welding it hopefully tomorrow and smoothing it over (subframe connectors soon!)

 

Its looking really good. Did you decide to strip the rest of the paint off? Looks like it in the pics. What type of etch primer are you using?

 

Looks great another thing about the bumper, if it has spider webs in, make sure to sand it all the way down to the urethane, I didn't and now I have a spider web forming

 

Nope it is actually just scuffed down other than the door and fender. I used a parts store brand spray etch although I shouldn't have I really wanted to see how it would look with all the paint stripped off. I will need to strip a couple small spots where filler is needed then ill cover it with 2k later on.

It put a little more motovation in me to see the fender straightened out and in 1 color again!

As far as the bumper cover it is spider cracked in a few places but not too bad. What should I do about stripping it? I was told they make a bumper stripper and I have also heard some body shops can dip them? It also has some small buldging where the license plate used to sit but I will be shaving over the holes and doing a hideaway plate underneath. Im going to try and use a heat gun and gently flatten the surface out hopefully unless there are any other better ideas out there.

 

Rattle can etch? Thats pretty much a no-no josh. It might be OK or it might not, its a crap shoot.

 

Just dont rush through the body/prep work

To strip it get some SEM bumper stripper, plastic scraper, spray the stripper evenly, then wait about 5 minutes then scrape it off. It helps to go ahead and just sand the bumper really quickly before you strip it. Just keep using the stripper until its all off or at a point where you can sand it off easily. MAKE SURE TO CLEAN IT REALLY GOOD after you strip it with laquer thinner then soap and water. It will take about 3-4 cans to do the whole thing. I haven't heard of dipping so i don't know how that would work, but I'm sure it aint cheap. Also once you strip it, it wouldn't hurt to spray with SEM bumper coater first. I sprayed about half of mine then ran out, did it make a difference? I ain't sure. To flatten it out, take a 2x4 or 2, press one against the back of the bumper, take a heat gun and heat the front and then press it down with another 2x4, then poor cold water on it

There is a extended scraper at advance with 3 metal and 3 plastic blades that works excellent for stripping the bumper, just don't use the metal blades as the stripper makes the bumper a little soft, but after the bumper dries it is fine.

As far as the stripper, I think I got mine from carquest or a paint/body supply retailer should have it.

 

make sure to only do a small section at time with the stripper, after you finish that section, wipe it with laquer thinner then after you finish the whole thing, wipe it down with laquer thinner again, then wash it with dawn dish soap really good

 

well no work tonight since its freezing in the garage and the propane tank ran out on me for the heater, tomorrows another day.

excellant information! i was afraid of what i did after i sprayed the fender,i jumped ahead when i shouldnt have i am known for this. as for now the fender will stay this way at least til i get back to it but it will keep it sealed in the mean time. the bumper covers and GFX will prob be last of everything so ill just get them out of my way for now.

I would like to get some epoxy paint already but im gonna wait another week or so and just keep at it with the sanding. i still have to pull the rear bumper cover and passangers side GFX too.

 

well not a whole lot tonight but i put in a bout 2 hours believe it or not, i stripped most of the door, just needs cleaning and a scuff for epoxy,welded up the chassis flex crack and filled it over and stripped the decklid down completely. i figured since the decklid was on a small flat surface i would just strip it down. Slowly but surely!

 

Looking Good, Josh. You will be surprised how quickly things come along after all the sanding/stripping/dissassembly work is done... just take it one piece at a time, then its not so overwhelming.

Andy

 

Yeah it definetly can be overwhelming especially for someonce that never done it before but im just gonna keep at it. I think ill feel alot better once its in its first coat of epoxy primer all 1 color again.

 

I think you mentioned you were going to use the Summit epoxy primer, you will really like it I promise, just make sure to mix thoroughly in the can and also when you add the catalyst.
2-3 WET coats should be great for your initial blocksand. I did mine with 220 on a durablock 180 may be fine also, but I didnt want to take any chances. Keep your sandpaper CLEAN, change it often, and apply only light pressure, let the sandpaper do the work. If you let the epoxy set for 3-4 days you can sand it dry pretty well, if you dont want to wait, you can wetsand. It will gum up the paper pretty bad if you try to dry sand it too soon.

Andy

 

Looking good!
And yes it can be overwhelming, it was for me, but just stay at it and before you know it will have it painted.
Just make sure to wait for the clear to cure completely before reassembly
That goes for sanding any primer, make sure to let it set and cure really good before you dry sand it

 

I will not be rushing the paint process since I have plenty of time anyways the car really needs to be ready for spray by mid to late february by then hopefully the warmth will have come back enough to paint it without any worrys.

I will be using the summit epoxy primer, how much of the gallon have you used on your car?

 

Josh I used the entire gallon plus 1 quart. It mixes 1:1 so that is 2 1/2 gallons!!! The only reason I used that much is because the first time I primed I used a HF gun and half the paint went out with the breeze. I put a total of 6 wet coats of primer on the car.

Andy

 

Oh wow, i should just buy a good gun then and save myself the paint fumes.

did you use only the epoxy primer? Any just sealer primers on top before basecoat?

 

I'm only using epoxy...others like epoxy then 2k then sealer etc. base will stick just fine to a well prepared clean/sanded primer whether it be epoxy or 2k. I could have gone with a red sealer coat before my base, but that really would be a waste because the color is covering over the dark grey primer just fine. Im not really sure what sealer is for other than to make you spend more money.

 

That's good to know I thought id have to buy another gallon of 2k. Base and and clear are already gonna set me back enough. Still haven't decided what to use yet, any suggestions? I was originally gonna do ppg gloss black but that's about $220 a gallon from a local supply store plus clear about another $150. From what I saw doesn't seem like summit carrys a gloss black base only single stage, unless I missed it.

 

I wish I had the ***** to attempt major body work.
Good job dude!

 

You could use PPG Omni single stage black, I used it on my son's hood on his Camaro. You can colorsand and buff just like if it had clear. I used the Summit black on my Nova, but if I were to do it again I'd go with the Omni... its a truer black.

 

Yeah I still haven't quite decided if I should cheat and use the single stage or not of course I like the idea of less cost and spray, I just hope id get close to the same shine with a single stage over 2 stage.

 

Thanks man! Im no pro, anyone can't paint but its the end result that really matters.

 

summit has a 2 stage jet black: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...8-12/overview/ 144. Clear: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up200/overview/ 60

 

Yes! That's what I was looking for, and a reasonable price too seems like a good deal

 

I just happened to see it right after I read your post

 

Black is one of those colors that just looks better (to me) in single stage..

-- Joe

 

Not much to update other than more sanding. Been busy with the holidzy around the corner but I get to tinker on it here and there. Couple pictures for your noggin.

 

Looks good man, brings back memories of uh...3 weeks ago...LOL

I just have this feeling that your ride is gonna turn out super nice, keep tinkering you'll get there!!

 

Well I ordered my Summit racing primer today finally! Been so busy lately and the cold is really setting in! 12 degrees today!. After next week my vacation begins ill have 9 days off so that should plenty of time to really get cracking and make some progress, stay tuned!

 

Looking good josh and this thred is really making me want to tear into my Camaro. It's 12 and snowy here and my Garage is too samll to work in so I have to wait, plus the car has some running issue that need addressed first. So far I have enjoyed reading the post and learned alot.

last month my buddy shot his 95 M3 clone with the Summit Racing SS Hot Rod black-2 coats over cheap primer that was already on the car and it looks good. Summit paint is good for the money.

 

Well guys its been awhile since an update but i do have some pictures for you! as of right now the first few coats of epoxy primer are laid down on the drivers side as im doing it in sections because of the size of the garage i have to work with. passangers side is stripped of GFX mirror and trim and i just put down some filler for all the little dings so today or tomorrow i can get sanding again.

Just as some of you said i didnt clean the surface good enough the first time i tried painting the door and that damn stripper came through in a bunch of places so i had to strip alot of it off and clean it over and over again, second time was a charm.

Pics are in order from earliest to today, Enjoy!

 

 

Looking good, wish mine was in that good of shape but unfortunatly I had bad fenders and doors. But this donor car im getting soon has all the stuff I need including a nice old school 350

 

Looks good, cant wait to see it finsihed!!

 

Mine had accident damage so I changed the fenders, hood, bumper, crash bar, a few hours straightening the radiator support.

I had a PDR guy fix a few of the dings in the doors to reduce the amount of mud to finish the car.


-- Joe

 

Looks great!!

 

Thanks guys, been working on it still but I did get the pass side door and fender in its first coat of epoxy primer last night so all that's left is the right rear quarter and the roof then I think im gonna cover it with 2k primer to fill in any sand scratches that may be popping through and ill block that. Ill get some pics tonight! This thing needs to be done like yesterday! Moving into my first home in about 3 weeks so it needs to be done!

 

little late on pictures but here they are! almost the whole car is in epoxy primer now except for the roof but ill get that done tomorrow or tuesday!



















Also picked up a spare pass side door and a good nosecone with no tears like my old one!

 

Nice! Looking great! I wish I could find bumpers that easy, or any parts for that matter

 

Yeah that's why I grabbed them too not alot of parts pop up on the local craigslist anymore so when they do I try to grab what I can and keep spares stocked up lol

So tonight im gonna place my order from summit racing for my high build primer and paint.
After thinking about it alot im gonna try the summit single stage gloss black I've heard good things about it and I like the idea of only having to shoot it once too.

Also need to pick up a gun to spray the base so im not using the same gun for primer.