92 Formula. I need to adjust my fenders backward about 1/8", maybe 3/16" at the most to get my door gaps perfect. Naturally, I would need to move the front bumper cover back an accompanying amount. I've been told it will move, and read that it won't move back at all. Surely I can get 2 or 3 16ths out of it?

 

Though I never took a bird apart, there is adjustment in camaros up down fore aft left and right. I'll say there is on your car too. Word of warning, I had my gaps tight and looking awesome (1/8"). They were too tight and I had the door contact the inside lip of the fender when opening. You need around 3/16 to 1/4 fender to door.

 

Yeah, that's what I'm shooting for. I am at 5 or 6 16ths on my passenger side, and 6 or 7 on my drivers side. Of course, my drivers side door will need to be moved forward about 1/8" too. The hinges on that side, naturally, have been worked on and incorrectly set. I'm going to tackle that first, then work on the fenders. Passenger side door is ok, but that fender needs to be moved back. I have no idea what happened to the car. I appear to still have the original fenders because they have the factory date stamps of 92, but at some point someone has taken them off (maybe for painting?) and not gotten them back on in the stock position. Annoying. But 1/4 or 3/16 inch all around is what I want, hence, I need to move the fenders, and need to know if the bumper cover will move back with it! Thx....

 

That's right, it was you that had the thread asking for pics of that area and we already discussed the gaps. Brain fart. Growing older makes life more interesting. I occasionally meet new people that have known me for years.

 

Yeah, I was going to tackle it last month on vacation, but my differential went out, so I had to spend a few weeks putting that fire out first. I'm on vacation next week, and plan to get to work on it. I started a new thread because it's slightly different question, and since it had been so long I wanted a fresh angle on it. I'll definitely post pics here IF I can get it straightened out. LOL

 

The bumper cover will move back at the fenders (assuming it's still attached there) but if the support bar or impact filler is tight to the cover, it might distort the shape as the sides move back. Depending how it sits now, that might actually make it look better if your cover has some sag in the middle.
It all depends on where the support bar sits now. You might be able to shift it back that much on top of the plate. You may not be able to move the cover back at all if it is already hard back against the impact bar. Also if the triangle support under the plate isn't tight, the plate could try and move downwards, pulling down the top edge of the cover.
If you haven't removed the cover on this car before, I would prob go ahead and do that anyway to see what things look like. I have found some pretty messed up support bars and bumpers under some cars.

 

Ok. Thx. I'd be happy with 1/8" if that's all I can get, esp on the passenger side. I don't think it's hard against the impact bar just yet, but I will check. The first thing I have to do is move the drivers side door forward 1/8". Going to work on it this morning, and my gut is already turning. Not looking forward to this very much. After that, I'd be happy nudging the passenger side fender back about 1/8 or so, and the bumper to match. That will get me very close to exactly right. I wish people would put crap back together right when they mess with it instead of doing it half cocked.

 

Yup, lots of bad reassembly on these cars, that's why I would always remove the front cover on any firebird, there's just too much stuff under there people don't get right.

 

I'm halfway through the project now, breaking for lunch. Got the hinges off, and while I'm at it changing pin and roller/putting a quick coat of paint on the bottom hinge. Either I'm an idiot whose about to get his come-upins, or the PO is an idiot. He had the bottom hinge shimmed 1/8 on the door side, and the top hinge moved toward the rear at the body to match. All this had the effect of moving the entire door rearward about 1/8". What I don't get is WHY, because the shim came out easily and the top hinge slid right back into it's stock position when I loosened the bolts. If it was that easy to move, why did they not do so, and further, why did they shim the bottom hinge when they could have just loosened and slid the top hinge back? Maybe I'll uncover some deep dark secret when I re-assemble, but I can't imagine what that would be. I'm also moving the door UP a little less than 1/8 while I'm at it, because it's a little too low also.

 

Probably because of the center bolt hole on the top hinge. There is no play when it is loose. I believe it is drilled when the door is adjusted properly at he factory. I have seen new hinges without this hole.

 

Yeah but that's my point, it IS loose! I was able to move it in all 4 directions til I got it in the stock position. That's what has me scratching my head. If the hole was opened to the point of being able to do this, why didn't they do it? LOL... I just hope I don't run into anything super weird when I put it back together.

 

Trying to figure out why someone before you did something will drive you nuts. Fix it and move on to their next mistake Good luck.

 

Good advice. If I can get it fixed it will make me feel better about everything else I have to do going forward. Being the novice that I am, I'm always afraid a "mistake" was done because someone knew something I don't, and it had to be done that way because something else is screwed up that can't be fixed. Not always the case fortunately.....

 

SUCCESS!!!! Here are pics to prove it. By the grace of God, in one fell swoop I was able to fix every problem I had with that door. Needed to move forward 1/8", needed to be moved up a little less than 1/8", lined up the window, window guide, and fixed an issue that was causing the weather stripping at the bottom of the window to leave a gap when the door was shut. Was also able to put in a new pin and roller and put a little paint on the hinge and spring! And now after all this, the door does not stick out a little past the fenders the way it used to, it's almost exactly flush with the body! The door latch works likes it's supposed to now too. Yes, it's true, you CAN move the door of a thirdgen in, out, up down--whatever. PO? You are TOAST my friend!

 

Before...sorry it's upside down....lol

 

After....

 

See how far I had to move it up? I'll need to re-stripe.... Although, the striping was a little off before, looks like I moved it more than 1/8", but I didn't. The only casualty of the day was this little nick, but I'll touch it up, and gladly. I'd trade this for a straight door any day!

 

Front gap...

 

Flushed as Martha Stewart's toilet! I had to pull the fender out slightly with my hands to match, but it matches now. When I first got done I was sick because the door and fender touched. But it turned out I just needed to raise the door a little more. I loosened it a little, raised it with a jack, and after I pulled the fender out a little, we got THIS result!

 

Wide view! BTW, I used a step ladder, a tow strap, and the ribs of my carport to support the door while working. Don't have a pic uploaded for that yet, maybe later. For 8 long months that door gap has been calling my name, taunting and tasking me. It will torment me no longer. Thanks for putting up with my ravings, but this has been a day of work well done!

 

Nicely done! Soooo much better now. Looks like the hood to fender gap stayed nice too.

 

Thx. If anything I moved it too far forward by maybe 1 or 1.5 mm, but to heck with that. It's close enough. I haven't messed with the fenders any yet though--other than pulling this one out with my hands a little. This fender is ok, but the one on the passengers side will need to move backward about 1/8", that's where my bumper issue will come in. That will probably be for tomorrow! LOL

 

Once you move the right fender back, you may have to shift the whole front end (fenders and nose) to the right to keep the hood in line with everything else. The hood stays square and you change the geometry of the area it's inside of when you move one side fore or aft.

 

Ok. One thing I noticed though is that the bumper to hood gap is slightly wider on the passenger side near the headlight door area. Which means it's almost asking to be moved back a little on that side!

 

Here's some hi res pictures of just how dramatic the difference is, plus my home made contraption....

Before....

 

After.....

 

Ladder/tow line/carport....

 

I really would take the nose off at this point. Sounds like you are going to have to do some shifting anyway, better to check what's under there and possibly interfering with it.
Nice job so far!

 

I may do that tomorrow because I noticed today that the nose isn't exactly flush with the rf fender at the top, it's separated by maybe 1/16 or so because the little clip the top bolt goes through isn't exactly straight. That pass fender is so close, I almost hate to mess with it. It might be off by 1/16 at the most now that I look at it. The thing is, there is the most annoying squeak in that area, I may at least take it off to see if I can track that down. But boy, that trick of pulling the fender out a little with your hands was like a miracle, it makes a HUGE difference in door clearance and look!

 

Yes I think you'll find either the support plate triangle is missing or shifted down. Possibly metal bumper bent downwards. Besides the parking lot bumps, the other reason so many front ends are out of whack is that to many morons the front bumper cover looks like a bench. Never figured out why, but a surprising number of people just can't seem to resist sitting in the front of a car.