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I woudn;t use the bad reviewed company for shipping glass though!!!!!!!
Did you find a good set of hnges???
I'm leery of both UShip (broker) and the bidding company TLG, also a broker. The owner of the glass is actually thinking of driving down for a few days off work...but I doubt he will be able to. I'm looking at several complete hatches. Can't really tell condition but one with a traditional wing looks pristine...think it's been repainted. But, then its back to brand new vs 30 yr old glass. Tempered glass gets more brittle over the years.
Have not found hinges yet. Have one watching on Ebay but they want $100 for used OEM. Crazy. How about $20?
The glass is brand new.... .but how old "brand new" It could be an 82 brand new lol Did you get pics of this brand new glass?
I mimagining it doesn;t come with ANYthing on it.... a direct hatch would have the hinges / deck and spoiler etc.. already on it I assume.
Also, did you make sure the unit doesn't have the holes for the 86 stop light?
It's not GM glass. When the aftermarket company stopped producing them a few years ago, not sure exactly when, the guy bought one to keep around in case of customer need (he owns an auto glass company). It is not for the 1986, but is standard 8 hole. No worries about the 86 stop light.
I do need to get a pic of the glass, just to make sure, there is a glass...but the guy is actually toying with driving it down himself and taking a mini-vacation (not holding my breath...time from work is income lost).
Ima bet nobody inquired about that glass for a looooooooooooooooooooooong time so hed be happy to take a vacation and make some profit / clear some space at the same time!! I can;t imagine having something that big taking up so much space though....
Ima bet nobody inquired about that glass for a looooooooooooooooooooooong time so hed be happy to take a vacation and make some profit / clear some space at the same time!! I can;t imagine having something that big taking up so much space though....
I tried looking up when the company stopped making back glass. They seem to still make windshields and door glass though, which are probably what tend to need repair more often. With the issues of exploding hatches, I'd start making back glass again!
I tried looking up when the company stopped making back glass. They seem to still make windshields and door glass though, which are probably what tend to need repair more often. With the issues of exploding hatches, I'd start making back glass again!
Why not? I just emailed Pilkington to see when they stopped making the back glass, and suggesting they start doing so again since so many hatches are shattering.
Yes, I know this catch plate is hidden top and bottom. No, the rust was not satisfactory. Now it's de-rusted, POR 15'd, and painted black. Successfully re-riveted to the plastic underside deck lid. Glad I saved that rivet tool from something like 23 yrs ago! Before, very rusty Close up of how rusty De-rusted, POR 15'd (great product), painted, re-installed. Always keep tools! You never know!
Nice!! Did you spray the POR-15??? that looks super smooth
Man I hope they respond!!!!!!
I only used the POR 15 for the degreaser/cleaner and metal prep. The paint is actually a little can of AC Delco WA 8555 (GM black). The POR 15 paint doesn't have a spray can (brushing is messy) and also, the doggone little can once opened (if you can get it open) is so mangled you have to use all the paint at once or toss it out. It looks good on my Jeep where I used it though. Seems the super dark, super high gloss tends to dull a bit in the hot sun but that's ok.
Interesting tidbit of info regarding aftermarket polycarbonate glass. I spoke with my insurance company (Hagerty) and they can't pay for glass that isn't basically road rated. Optic Armor, et al, are made for the race track, not normal roads. Something to keep in mind on an insurance claim. If you want the polycarbonate you'll likely have to pay out of pocket.
I throw POR-15 into a mason jar, cover the top with WAX paper and a layer of plastic wrap before screwing the cover on..thats how my teacher would keep it.....and throw it in the fridge.. So far so good.
hmmmmmmm did you decide what to do about your hatch?
I throw POR-15 into a mason jar, cover the top with WAX paper and a layer of plastic wrap before screwing the cover on..thats how my teacher would keep it.....and throw it in the fridge.. So far so good.
hmmmmmmm did you decide what to do about your hatch?
Working with insurance. They may have a way to transport the unused glass from NH. If there's just no way for it to be shipped, a salvage hatch it will be No response from Pilkington on when they stopped making the back glass.
be sure to ask them again about any issues with the aluminum hinges...who knows maybe they'll help you out??
Yes definitely. I emailed them a while ago but never got a response. Also emailed about weights of the aftermarket fiberglass wings, no response. Kinda irritating but they're a small company and probably struggling to keep up with it all.
Spoke to Hawks Motorsports today. They are very helpful and nice over the phone. They do not have any used OEM hinges. I asked about the billet hinges exploding hatches and they say they have not had any issues. The very first set they installed they tightened to spec and bam. Since then they've used 8 ft lbs of torque on the glass side and zero problems. So I don't know. Also, lead time on the fiberglass aero wing is down to 4 weeks and they weigh maybe 8 lbs or so, far less than rubber!
Spoke to Hawks Motorsports today. They are very helpful and nice over the phone. They do not have any used OEM hinges. I asked about the billet hinges exploding hatches and they say they have not had any issues. The very first set they installed they tightened to spec and bam. Since then they've used 8 ft lbs of torque on the glass side and zero problems. So I don't know. Also, lead time on the fiberglass aero wing is down to 4 weeks and they weigh maybe 8 lbs or so, far less than rubber!
So leme get this so i understand completely.
So THEY tightened the aluminum hinges on a hatch they were prolly testing them om to the OE specs that hatch shattered?
Don;t they got tons of parts cars they can grab the hinges off one of them? Or even a hatch?
So THEY tightened the aluminum hinges on a hatch they were prolly testing them om to the OE specs that hatch shattered?
Don;t they got tons of parts cars they can grab the hinges off one of them? Or even a hatch?
From what I gathered, on their very first set of billet hinges, they went to spec and bam. It shattered the glass. Since then they've installed a ton of them, tightened to 8 ft lbs and they claim no issues. They don't have any original hinges at the moment (although I'm sure they have some of salvage cars but not sure if they part out).
Panel to Compartment Glass Assembly. CAUTION: Torque of 11 ft-lb must be maintained when tightening retaining nuts, panel to glass or glass breakage and personal injury could result. Personal protection items such as safety glasses and work gloves should be worn to minimize possible personal injury.
1. Tighten retaining nuts in the following order: Forward center Rear center All remaining nuts
Yes it should. I believe glass piece is same for every year, they never changed it. Be careful when tightening top four bolts on hatch. Too much torque will shatter glass when driving over bumps, etc. I've attached instructions from mannual on how to reinstall rear glass and spoiler/trim piece. Shows four bolts near roof (bolt #25 in diagram) and trim bolts (#34) to be tightened at 124 lb-in (10.33 ft-lbs). I would tighten bolts in small increments until you reach right level, then go back and check torque one last time.
I know it was the 90's but teal color never got me excited about a camaro.
My manual says 11 ft lbs at the glass. I'm not sure what the shop torqued to, but when I took to cleaning up the glass, I loosened the nuts at the glass with a tiny little 1/2 in wrench and barely any effort. I don't think they were overly tight. But if I have to stick with the Hawks hinges I'll tell the shop to torque to 8. I've looked closely at the metal supports that are part of the side bands. They appear padded on one side, and seem to have an ever so slight curvature. Like we talked about on the original hinges....the areas around the bolt through-holes does appear slightly higher than the middle part. Maybe just a cut to fit 1/16th or 1/8th inch rubber gasket, just around the holes and not in the middle????
My manual says 11 ft lbs at the glass. I'm not sure what the shop torqued to, but when I took to cleaning up the glass, I loosened the nuts at the glass with a tiny little 1/2 in wrench and barely any effort. I don't think they were overly tight. But if I have to stick with the Hawks hinges I'll tell the shop to torque to 8. I've looked closely at the metal supports that are part of the side bands. They appear padded on one side, and seem to have an ever so slight curvature. Like we talked about on the original hinges....the areas around the bolt through-holes does appear slightly higher than the middle part. Maybe just a cut to fit 1/16th or 1/8th inch rubber gasket, just around the holes and not in the middle????
i think that was an idea that was tossed around before.
Let me ask, and it's probably been asked here already, but what is the padding like on the Hawks hinges? Surely there's no metal to glass contact.
And I'm also curious to know if the bolts contact the glass. I would want to ensure that there are no stress risers anywhere in the installation. A bolt rubbing on the glass would most certainly be a point of failure down the road.
Let me ask, and it's probably been asked here already, but what is the padding like on the Hawks hinges? Surely there's no metal to glass contact.
And I'm also curious to know if the bolts contact the glass. I would want to ensure that there are no stress risers anywhere in the installation. A bolt rubbing on the glass would most certainly be a point of failure down the road.
When you get the Hawks billet hinges (there are similar available elsewhere I know nothing about)....they are just the metal components. There are no pads/gaskets. There are no plastic through-hole sleeves for the bolts. That sounds scary, but on my OEM hinges, there were no pads/gaskets and no sleeves either.
As for the mounting at the hinge to glass location....see pictures attached. This is what the edge banding looks like off of the vehicle and with all the glass removed. This is the RH (pass) side. You'll notice that section at the top, which is about 1.5 x 6 inches. That is what contacts the glass, and the billet hinge then contacts the underside of that section. On mine, there is a thin layer of some sort of padding which would contact the glass. It does appear that this metal flange has very slight curvature. If you scroll up through the pics, there are good ones of the OEM and Hawks hinges. Notice that the OEM are a honeycomb (with voids) design? There's also a somewhat round raised lip around each bolt hole. Hawks is 100% flat. It is unknown whether that is a factor in the glass shattering and/or the rigidity of the aluminum allow. I called Hawks and they said 8 ft lbs torque on the hinge to glass bolts....way less than my manual says (for OEM).
All this said, I had cut 1/8 in rubber gaskets which I don't believe my shop used. At least, I didn't find them in the rubble! The question remains whether these stiff, flat bottomed aluminum alloy hinges play a factor. No one seems to really know.
made me think of this thread!...any updates to this?
Well, after 3 months of trying to figure out where the new glass was in shipment, we found out the body shop got it in early Sept and has been sitting on it. So I'm still waiting on them to work it into their schedule. Like everyone, they are having supply chain issues and backlogged.
Worse, I'm having a lot of issues with my left leg shaking (nerve damage in lower back) which may make it unsafe to drive a manual transmission. FML. Might have to sell once the hatch is done, if it's ever done, and look for one with an automatic
Well, after 3 months of trying to figure out where the new glass was in shipment, we found out the body shop got it in early Sept and has been sitting on it. So I'm still waiting on them to work it into their schedule. Like everyone, they are having supply chain issues and backlogged.
Worse, I'm having a lot of issues with my left leg shaking (nerve damage in lower back) which may make it unsafe to drive a manual transmission. FML. Might have to sell once the hatch is done, if it's ever done, and look for one with an automatic
Oh man! I hope everything is alright!! Maybe it will get better / go away?
Id suggest an auto swap but thats pretty involved.....
3 months is a pretty long wait! I mean where are they holding such a huge piece??? I watched a guy who got a camaro redo the decklid at home.... It should be like a 1- 2 hour job at the max I'd say for a shop..... It took me a half hour while struggling to get those stupid through bolts out....pissin my pants while handling the glass.....
Fro mthe video.....Basically theyd:
install trim
install hinges
instal lto car
measure decklid,
apply urethane
bolt decklid down
I think you install the struts after the urethane sets though, so overnight time to dry.
Oh man! I hope everything is alright!! Maybe it will get better / go away?
Id suggest an auto swap but thats pretty involved.....
3 months is a pretty long wait! I mean where are they holding such a huge piece??? I watched a guy who got a camaro redo the decklid at home.... It should be like a 1- 2 hour job at the max I'd say for a shop..... It took me a half hour while struggling to get those stupid through bolts out....pissin my pants while handling the glass.....
Fro mthe video.....Basically theyd:
install trim
install hinges
instal lto car
measure decklid,
apply urethane
bolt decklid down
I think you install the struts after the urethane sets though, so overnight time to dry.
I have permanent spine damage L5-S1 in particular, from years of wearing that police gunbelt. I have neck injuries too from the Navy (actually, started a VA claim) but I don't see any "getting better." Cest La Vie.
The crate the glass is in is huge and taking up a lot of space. One would think they'd want to get it done and out of their way. I do think the shop is a little scared to take on the job since the hatch shattered once already from the Hawks hinges install. But, now that I've talked to Hawks and know about the 8 ft lb max at hinge to glass, it should be ok. This all happened in what, June or July? I haven't been able to drive the car since. Just idle in the garage weekly to keep it running.
I have permanent spine damage L5-S1 in particular, from years of wearing that police gunbelt. I have neck injuries too from the Navy (actually, started a VA claim) but I don't see any "getting better." Cest La Vie.
The crate the glass is in is huge and taking up a lot of space. One would think they'd want to get it done and out of their way. I do think the shop is a little scared to take on the job since the hatch shattered once already from the Hawks hinges install. But, now that I've talked to Hawks and know about the 8 ft lb max at hinge to glass, it should be ok. This all happened in what, June or July? I haven't been able to drive the car since. Just idle in the garage weekly to keep it running.
Oh man, Im sorry to hear that
I kinda think so too..... they might be scared...did they at least check the part that it arrived safely??
I got this hatch fro msome guy...he loaded it in a pickup and strapped it down with tie straps......... ugh lol
did you decide to stick with the hawk hinges? Were you able to find GM hinges? There are some on ebay right now ..a few sets actually.
I kinda think so too..... they might be scared...did they at least check the part that it arrived safely??
I got this hatch fro msome guy...he loaded it in a pickup and strapped it down with tie straps......... ugh lol
did you decide to stick with the hawk hinges? Were you able to find GM hinges? There are some on ebay right now ..a few sets actually.
Thanks my friend. Getting old and dealing with injuries dating back to high school....it's a "thing." I agree, the shop is reluctant but in that case they should have said from the start we can't work on it again. After Christmas I'll ping on them and say we need to get this going. Like you said, its only a couple of hours work. I never found good original hinges so I'm sticking with the Hawks I guess. I'm thinking maybe on the rubber gaskets I made, cutting out the center part between the bolt holes so there's a little void and only the areas around the bolt holes put pressure on the glass. That plus 8 ft lbs should do the trick. Hawks said once they reduced torque to 8, that no other hatches shattered.
yeah! this guy on youtube did the decklid part in his home garage! so a shop should be able to do better..that or if you need to start looking for another shop if they don;t want to do it....I understand their nervousness though,.....
.or maybe you can find an old glass shop that used to deal with these cars when they were new? Find an old mechanic who used to do these cars and see if they got any words / info about it,
Problem is transporting the glass in the crate which I can't do. The closest would be Trans Am Specialties in Miami, but they generally only do Gen II's. Sigh. If you want you can hit me up on email sklearman AT bellsouth DOT net. Might be easier than staying logged in here.
Problem is transporting the glass in the crate which I can't do. The closest would be Trans Am Specialties in Miami, but they generally only do Gen II's. Sigh. If you want you can hit me up on email sklearman AT bellsouth DOT net. Might be easier than staying logged in here.
I have my old back window sitting beside my house. Never thought there would be a demand for it. I can't see me ever shipping it especially across the border but if I was able to sell it, what's the going price for a back window? I think it still has the hinges on it and I might still have the IROC spoiler for it. The deck lid is still attached to the glass.
I have my old back window sitting beside my house. Never thought there would be a demand for it. I can't see me ever shipping it especially across the border but if I was able to sell it, what's the going price for a back window? I think it still has the hinges on it and I might still have the IROC spoiler for it. The deck lid is still attached to the glass.
I'm in Calgary if someone wants to do a road trip
I think it depends on condition...rust on decklid, condition of metal trim etc...
Well it was in good condition years ago when I took it off my car to put in a Lexan back window. I guess the best price is whatever someone is willing to pay for it. I was thinking that $100 would be a good starting price just to get rid of it.
No response from Pilkington on when they stopped making the back glass. 
