How to restore rusty rear window trim?
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From: MI
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Engine: Taunt
Transmission: Mustangs
How to restore rusty rear window trim?
My car only has rust in one spot and it is on my list of things to fix this spring when she comes out to play again. The rear hatch has a painted black peice of metal trim covering the edge of the window. It runs from one side, forward/up the window, across the top, and back/down the other side. Can I get this trim off of my rear window, let alone prep and paint it somehow? Should I just call the dealer and order a new one? Has anyone tackled this problem before?
:hail: Please Help!
:hail: Please Help!
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From: saugerties new york
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
yep had or still have same prob on 91 bird...had it painted and the rust came back.....its a wierd pitting rust too......gonna try to sand the **** out of it and see what happens...unless someone has a better idea
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Car: 91 Camaro 77K
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Last edited by Kj Rockz; Feb 15, 2002 at 05:32 PM.
I sanded it by hand till the pits were almost gone(they were shallow) followed by a real fine sand paper then masked of around the trim and sprayed with some primer to help stop it from pelling again. Then after the primer dreid a spray cheap gloss black over it and it looks fine.
yeah i have delt with it. i actually used a file to get the sanding done a little quicker. then i switched to paper. the key is to get ALL of the rust off...or else it will just come back. then tape it all off so you can use a spray can. masking it off is probably the most time consuming part, cause you dont want over spray on your glass. make sure you hit it with some primer first. then i used a flat black paint made for BBQ grills (its about the right color/texture, its durable, and cheaper). they sell paint especially for these types of trim pieces at auto parts stores, but IMHO they start to look a little too dull or grayish when they are in the sun. mine with the grill paint still looks great. take your time, do it right.
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
I removed my hatch from the car set up some saw horses and then I painted that black piece. That way all I had to mask was the rear hatch piece and the glass. Even if I got some paint on the glass I used a razorblade to remove the overspray. i use SEM oem black paint. I have had it on my hatch since 98 and it still looks like new.
I sanded the rust off with some 120 & 220 Grit sandpaper. went real fast, had the whole thing done in about 3 hours.
John
I sanded the rust off with some 120 & 220 Grit sandpaper. went real fast, had the whole thing done in about 3 hours.
John
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 8,030
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
I sanded and painted mine on my old 92 RS and it came out great. Thats on my list of things to do with the IROC now. And yes, I sanded it with the trim piece still on the window. Wasn't hard to do at all. Good luck, and nice car BTW.
You will not be able to get them off in one salvageable piece. I threw mine out when my rear glass shattered from heat. Insurance was covering the glass then when the shop was gonna pull the glass out of the moulding and I didn't have em the insurance company wanted to total the car. The put silicone and use a rubber mallet to put them on. I don't think you would want to take em off and damage $600 in flimsy metal
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