Hey everyone. I have an 87 Trams AM WS6. I installed the front brakes from a 99 Z28. I used the kit from bigbrakeupgrade.com for the hub and spindle and all that jazz.

Now...the bump stops that are on the a-arms were interferring with the calipers. So I did what another member did on here... I cut half the bump stop off, and welded it so it would stay. However...Im still having issues.

When I turn all the way, it applies the brakes because the caliper is hitting before the bump stop. I realize I really dont have to turn until it locks...but sometimes when making a 3 point turn it just happens. And I really dont want to mess up the caliper.

So does anyone else have any suggestions?? Ive been thinking about removing that steering stop all together, and fabbing one that will work...and maybe be adjustable. If I come up with something, of course Ill follow up with pics and all...but Im curious as to what everone else is doing.

The members name who illustrated how to cut and weld the stops is SERPENT99. I hope he doesnt mind that I drop his name and post his pic. It was a great help to me!!!





Ok...any ideas???

Justin

 

Why not just make the stop a bit longer in distance off the A-arm? Is your caliper leaking from the bleeder screw in the top pic?

Ed

 

Ed...Sure looks like it. Maybe its some residue from bleeding? But those arent my pictures. Those are from another member..just to illustrate the method I found.

Lengthening the stops was an idea. However I wasnt sure of a good way to do it for one. And two, I wasnt sure how bad it would effect turning radius. But I guess number two is a mute point...because its the banjo bolt thats hitting the A-arm. So decreasing the turning radius is pretty much whats gotta happen. I was thinking about welding a strip down the front of the existing stop. Like putting weld on top of weld until its out far enough. Then grind it square again and paint. That might just work.

I was also trying to come up with a way to use some bolts. Like the stops in my jeep are adjustable and they are just bolts. If you could use a bolt through the a-arm, you could just use nuts on both sides and adjust it where you need it. Have the head of the bolt hit back where teh stock stop is supposed to hit.

I was beginning to get in a hurry towards the end..and I wanted to drive my car. I had just gotten it running, and mostly back together. And I took my first test drive. So I was soooo close that I just had to do something to help it out. I picked the only fix that I found on the net that seemed like it woudl work, and did it. I didnt may much attention to what else could be done though.

Justin

 

You can make an adjustable stop. I did this years ago to my 84-Z28 but unfortunately I don't have any pics.

I used an all-thread coupler, which is essentially a nut that is 1.5" long. I put a bolt inside the nut for an adjuster and welded this to the end of the existing stop after trimming the stop down to clear.

There wasn't enough room to put a jamb nut on with the bolt and have the thread depth like I wanted, so I took a punch and put dimples all the way around the nut until the bolt was hard enough to turn that I knew it would stay in place once adjusted.

I was able to set the stops where I wanted them and not worry about tearing up my expensive rims.

 

I took some pictures of my control arms with adjustable stops. I can't figure out how to post them. Any suggestions?

 

Yeah, send me a pm and I will walk you through it.

 

Yeah some more pics of everyone's set up would be great!!! Im going to figure this out soon since the car will be done for the season in a week or so.

Justin

 

Here are pictures of the steering stops I fabed for my C5 brakes. I have drop spindles, so the height may have to be altered.

 

soloc4...thanks for the pics! Thats almost exactly what I had in mind. What did you use to make it? Obviously a carrige bolt and a nut for a jamb nut..what did you use for the cylinder?

Where does the stop contact the steering knuckle?? Any pics of it installed with the steering hitting the bolt? Thats probably what Im going to do. Just cut off the existing stop all together, locate the spot where I want the stop to hit the knuckle, and work backwards. Good work!!!

Justin

 

The tubing is 3/4" OD X .140" wall mild steel and a piece of 1/8" angle steel for the base. The spindle has an ear on the aft, lower corner that the bolt makes contact with. You can mock up the suspension and adjust for height. I used stainless steel hardware and plenty of grease to keep it from rusting. I hope this helps you.

 

Definetly helps me! Thanks again! Last question I had for you, was on the tubing. Did you just tap out the tubing for the bolt?? Or is it sitting in there another way? I assumed you tapped it...but just checking.

Justin

 

Yes it is threaded. If you have access to a lathe, it makes it a lot easier, but they can be tapped by hand. Ream the ID up to 7/16" (.4375") and use a 1/2 X 13 tap. Glad I can help.

 

Hey Justin; I decided to mock-up my front suspension and take more pictures. As you can see, the calipers clear the steering stops by a good margin. Let me know how things work out. Steven

 

Steve,
Wow that looks great! Is that paint on your spindles?? Nice clean job. I dont know why...but your spindle/caliper/a-arm looks different than mine. But its probably just because I havent seen mine in awhile, and yours is nice and new looking Im DEFINETLY taking your advice, and copying your idea. Or trying to atleast. Ill have to weld everything up while its on the car though. I really dont want to have to pull those arms back off and all that jazz. My main concern is gettin the tubing and being able to tap it. But we'll see.

Thanks again for taking the time to snap some pics and share the idea with me/us!!! Looks like its going to work fantasically!

Justin

 

Everything you see (and don't see) has been powdercoated various colors. The color on the spindles is "metallic cast steel".

 

Looks darn good man... Im thinking about asking for a powdercoating kit for x-mas. Just gotta find an oven to use.

I went to the hardware store today and got two stainless carrige bolts, two stainless jamb nuts, and two threaded couplings for $7. Figured Ide use a coupler instead of buying tubing and threading it.

Its plated, and about 2" long...maybe alittle less. All 1/2x13 threads. Ill ditch some of the plating on the coupler so I can get a good weld on it. I cant wait to get this together!!!!! I hate not being able to turn my wheels all the way without fear of messing up the caliper. Or when I do, it actually applies that brake and makes the car stop.

Justin

 

wish i found this months ago, i loosened the banjo bolt with factory stop while driving yesterday... ooooops, nice pics btw thanks guys!
-doug