Doh! Autozone wants $88 each for the HD C4s and $34 each for the 1LEs. Prices dont include the core.

[edit] Looks like advanced wants $57+core each on the HDC4s. So there is still approx $50 savings getting a pair of 1LEs from autozone.

 

Please post part numbers because now I am really confused where you got that from, I am getting something completely different. I do not know about autozone but there is only a $4 between the calipers at advance. Here is the info:

Front Driver side calipers:
C4 HD – Cardone 184320 $77.77 and a $35 core
1LE – Cardone 184344 $73.88 and a $35 core

Edit:
I went to autozone’s website and here’s what I got.
Front Driver side calipers:
C4 HD – FENCO_REMAN C356 $87.99 and a $27 core
1LE – FENCO_REMAN C364 $33.99 and a $35 core

All I can say is that is weird. But definitely just get the 1LE caliper. Someone needs to go into a part store and take out each caliper side by side and make measurements to see if the only difference is only the brake line mounting location. I would but I am at school and don't have my measuring caliper on me.

Maybe because it’s a corvette they assume people will pay more and jack up the price, but who knows.

 

Top says advance auto parts powered by parts america. Does yours say that too?

1995 C4 HD
Cardone 184320
Reman.; Front; Driver Side; Unloaded; OE Metal Piston
Lifetime Limited Warranty
Ships in 1 day
Weight: 4.9 lbs.
$56.99 $35.00 core

Cardone 184319
Reman.; Front; Passenger Side; Unloaded; OE Metal Piston
Lifetime Limited Warranty
Ships in 1 day
Weight: 4.9 lbs.
$56.99 $35.00 core

 

Justins86bird,
I am really confused now. I have tried a 1996, 95, and 95 ZR-1. No matter what I do I can not get the price that you get. I am using Advance Auto Parts website www.partsamerica.com or www.advanceautoparts.com (same site).

Maybe someone else on this site can look those part numbers up on advance’s site and see what price they get?

 

Justin,
I figured it out….
When I enter a zip code for where you live in AZ (I put in 85001) it comes up as $56.99 for the C4 HD, but when I enter my zip 22180 for VA it comes up as $77.77 for the C4 HD caliper.

I duno why it is cheaper for you over in AZ, not fair..

 

lol

Still not sure about the brake hose so using a 1LE caliper may not even work. At least we got some pricing going for the C4s. Internet price for GM calipers seem to be about $90-100 with no core charge.

 

gmpartsdirect.com wants $88 for each caliper without a core charge. Their shipping is pretty high though.

 

Has anyone confimed yet if the 1le brake lines work.

 

I didn't get around to installing them yet, but I will confirm that the 1LE line will work if that's what you need to know.


Ed

 

Im in no big hurry. Right now Im saving up for all of the parts. I just bought everything to convert over to 1le swaybars so I don't have any money to spend on the car. I also have to see if my professors will let me use the shop to mill down a set of rotors into hubs, I don't really want to pay when I can do it myself.

 

Yummm.... !! Rotor assembly turned down into a hub!:rockon:

 

Did you cut off the whole rotor on the lathe? As mentioned ealier by Alloy (I think it was him), Im a little worried by the about the rotating inertia of the rotor when it cuts loose damaging the lathe. Being an engineering student, Im sure my professors will have something to say about that.

I was thinking about going with the chain drilling method. How well does the lathe cut when you are cutting the rough area left over from the chain drilling? Im not experience cutting a rough surface on a lathe. I guess I can ask the guy who oversees the shop at school for some input.

Also, if I mill the rotor down to 5.9" will I have to cut a step in the front side to clearance the rotor like the C5 guys do?

Thanks
Joey

 

Geeez...that's some nice machining!!! :hail: How did you get such a smooth finish?

 

Be carefull when using the term "mill". You'll find that most of the work done to the hub mill be on a horizontal lathe, so the proper term probably would be "turn"
I did not do the machine work myself, but I was able to watch exactly how it was done. I took the rotor assembly to a small local machine shop. The guy there was a pro. You could tell he's been in the business for a while. To seperate the hub an rotor, he did all the work on a lathe. He cut in from the inboard side of the assembly and removed the rotor ring. He did it so perfectly that exactly when the rotor broke loose he put the spindle brake on and the rotor ring just sat there on the hub. Nothing fell and there was no violent crashing. I will take my video camera for the next hub and get a movie and post it here on the board.

Tom

 

It just turned out that way. I didn't do the turning myself. The paint helps make it look even smoother, but it was pretty damn nice even before the paint.

 

That's the 1LE rotor/hub, right? The guy left a lot more than I did but it does look sweet! My hub is pictured earlier in the thread..

I always turn them and let the hub "fall" out, it's no big deal. I usually stop just before the hub is cut clean off. You can actually hear the metal thickness going down and can determine when to stop. Then I stop the lathe and hit it real good with a dead blow soft face hammer and the hub breaks sway from the rotor and falls right into my hand...nice and safe.


Ed

 

The Dumb **s machinest that did my hubs did not follow my instructions. He cut my rotors down too close to the bolt holes and a couple have cracked. Had to weld all. of the freakin' studs in

Couldn't do anything about it because its was the deal where a friend was suppossed to do it , but his lathe wasn't big enough. So he farmed it out. Machinest did lousy work. Charged my buddy an arm and a leg for work. Bad deal all around.....

Lesson learned...get written quote first.

 

That's too bad...I'm glad to do them if anyone needs a set, I can trade for parts and stuff.


Ed

 

Actually it's the stock 10.5" rotor assembly. What made you think it was the 1LE? Where on my hub did he leave more material compared to yours?

Now that same hub looks like this......
.
.


We had to put a radius on the outside corner in order for the aluminum hat to fit over it.

Tom

 

I was referring to this pic. He left the "shoulder" a lot longer than I do. No problem with it, just noting it. What's the back side of yours look like?

Ed

 

Global west billet aluminum G-body hubs worthy of roadracing on a heavier G-body car- they bolt right up to our 3rd gen f-body spindles. Under 5lbs each with races and bearings.

 

What's the price on those Global West hubs?

I finally got around to installing my 1LE front brakes a couple weekends ago, but I really like the idea of upgrading further to hubs w/separate rotors. If I can keep my 1LE calipers and just change/modify the brackets it should make for an easy upgrade.

 

I looked all over Global West's site and couldn't find those hubs... Price? Part number?

Ed

 

Ditto.

 

Hope you got $$$
I talked to Global West a couple weeks ago... $500-$600 for two of their hubs.

Tom

 

So are they a stocked item at Global West or are they custom made as mentioned in the other post?

How do they compare to a set of Baer's aluminum hubs that they use for their 13" Track kit?

 

I did find a pic of them but no other description, but for that much jack, I'll stick with my stuff, thank you.


Ed

 

Baer doesn't use aluminum hubs, their steal.


If I remember correctly that picture halfpint posted is a set of custom hubs someone had made on this board, no one sells them.

Personally I would not want aluminum hubs, I don't like to use aluminum on any critical load baring suspension parts. Basically anything that can fail and cause me to loose control I make out of steal. To easy to not design right, pick the wrong grade or alloy and then the metal develops stress cracks or fatigues.

 

The are not a standard stock item from Global West. GW has made a few sets here and there *FOR* Wlwood because wilwood design is only adequate for dragracing. Doug has them recorded on the autoCAD and duplicated a set for me. You will neded to call and talk to him on price. He will also outfit you with a complete bolt-on brake kit if you desire but it will cost you. I opted for just the hubs and am fabbing the rest of the setup to my own parts and specs.

 

Any installed pics with the 1LE hubs yet Ed?

 

Well you know how things happen....tax time, closing on a refi...been busy. I will do my C4 --> C4 HD swap on Thursday and post pics. I have it all on my workbench ready to go, just haven't made time to do it yet.


Ed

 

Ed, will you test fit a 1LE caliper to see if it will work and if the brake lines will be a problem?
Thanks,
draino

 

Sure, no problem.

Ed

 

I know its possibly been asked in one of the 13" brake upgrades, and I sent ebmiller88 a PM, with a different braket or spacing could you get the front and rear tires to be able to rotate without dismount and mount, 91-92 Z28 specificly? Kind of my while you're there thought.

 

Since the front and rear wheels use different offsets, a bracket or spacer won't do anything for you. What you could do is run front offset wheels at all four corners.

In the rear they would stick out a little more, but it should be a problem. I know the guys racing 3rd gens. in the CMC Series do this and they have no trouble.

I plan to pick up a spare set of GTA wheels or Circle Racing wheels and will run the same offset at all four corners with race rubber for track events or serious canyon runs.

 

Mongoose brought this point to my attention: With the added offset the front kits give you, you could run 4 wheels of the same type at all 4 corners, like Brett mentioned. The front wheels have 4.75" offset, the rears have 5.25" offset. Most of the kits, except the C4 HDs, only add .300" or so to both sides (rotor hat thickness). He suggested running a rear wheel up front with a 1/4" spacer:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=229081

So you could run 4 rears or 4 fronts and do away with all the tire rotation issues. With the C4 HDs, you won't need a spacer at all since the 1LE hub adds another .300" to each side, so 4 rears would work here.


Ed

 

Nope, still not on yet. I did get a 1LE caliper from Mongoose today so I should make time this weekend to get it done. As far as the 1LE caliper goes, the stock line won't work with them, at least I don't think so from my standpoint. The 1LE banjo bolt is on the bottom of the caliper, the C4 on the side. Thus, the 1LE will need the longer line. I'm running Russel lines on my C4 car and I have to take the line out of the line retainer bracket (the one bolted on the strut) to rotate the caliper up to get the caliper off. You could just run 1LE lines up front so you'd have both bases covered.


Ed

 

Nope...not on yet...Monday.

Ed

 

Back to top...I've compared my HD calipers and the 1LE caliper I got from Mongoose and besides the location of the banjo bolt fitting, they are the same in every other way. They'll interchange between cars, use the same pads obviously, same rebuild kits, same everything. Running a C4 HD caliper will let you use a shorter brake line, maybe even a stock iron caliper hose. I like the location of the brake line on the side better anyway.


I'll try to get to them on Sunday.

Ed

 

Brakes are ON!!!!

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=237436


:lala:


Ed

 

Just checked GMParts direct for the 1LE Brake caliper part # (taken from 1le.net):

Front LH: 10132827
Front RH: 10132828

197 w/o shipped .

The part #'s in 89 iroc's diagrams are:

Listed as Grand sport Caliper (LH C4 Caliper): 12528689
Listed as Grand sport Caliper (RH C4 Caliper): 12528690

$123.12 (WTF?!)

Wheres the big difference to warrant the price increase on the 1LE brake calipers?

 

Buy the Fenco remanufactured ones from AutoZone. IIRC, with the core charge my 1LE calipers came to around $120 for the pair. They are usually a special order, but it only takes like 1 day to get them.

 

Have a part # for that caliper? I'd love to order some and time is not an issue at the moment.

Im also wondering if the morons here will take my v6 calipers as core's, thier pretty stupid .

 

That's where I got mine but they didn't charge my core, so I got mine for @ $70 out the door. P/N are C364 and C365. Here ya go (www.autozone.com):

Home > Shopping > Brakes & Traction Control > 1991 > CHEVROLET > CAMARO Z28 > More Info Needed

Search Results: BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT

BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT for a
1991 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
WITH PERFORMANCE PACKAGE

FENCO_REMAN DRIVER SIDE C364 $20.00 (Core) $33.99 2 PISTON UNIT LLT warranty

FENCO_REMAN PASSENGER SIDE C365 $35.00 (Core) $33.99 2 PISTON UNIT LLT Warranty

ARI
LEFT HAND SIDE 12-5325 LLT $60.00 (Core) $56.99

ARI
RIGHT HAND SIDE 12-5324 LLT $60.00 (Core) $56.99


Ed

 

You can get a left, reverse the bleeder screw with the banjo bolt and use it as a right and save $15 on the core charge.

 

Ok I am new to the thirdgen.org site. I have been reading over this post and would like to attempt to upgrade my brakes. So I need to cut my rotors, I cant do it so I will have a machine shop do it. What is the best way to cut them down? Then I need to have my spindles fabricated and a braket added? I am not sure what needs to be done to the spindles or what the braket will look like. Is this a common thing to do? Will my machinist know what to do as well? This is for the fronts, what about upgrading the rears? Josh

 

Hi Josh..sending you a PM.

Ed

 

Awesome upgrade thread, Ed, I will be doing this to my car later this month. Quick question, though... What kind of spare tire will fit over this set-up?? Even the 1LE aluminum spare might be too tight on this, or am I wrong?

 

Thanks...Spare? What spare? I have AAA....honestly, I have no idea. I haven't taken the time to fit one up. I doubt the "1LE" spare will fit tho...

Ed

 

My battery rides where my Spare tire was. I carry a can of Permatex " Tire inflator in the trunk side compartment. I've got BCAA as well ( Canadian AAA).