LS1 brake guys: check these bolts occasionally
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Greensburg, PA
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: Tremec 5 speed
LS1 brake guys: check these bolts occasionally
There was a fair amount of discussion on the LS1 brake thread on the FAQ board about the bolts for the caliper carrier becoming loose. I never had any trouble with those bolts, but I found the 2 bolts securing the adapter brackets to the steering knuckle/spindle had loosened. I put those bolts in with a torque wrench so I know they were tight. I did not use any threadlocker, lock washers, etc so maybe that contributed. Since the LS1, C4, C5 and even 1LE swaps use a similar adapter bracket it may be a good idea to check those bolts occasionally if you have swapped to one of these setups on your car.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 1
From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
i used red loctite on mine and grunked em down. since the car is now down for winter, ill have to check them when i get the chance, results to come
Originally posted by 87roc_t56
I used Loctite green which is the strongest and torqued them down.
I used Loctite green which is the strongest and torqued them down.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 4
From: In the Garage
Car: Camaro
Engine: 6.2L
Transmission: T56
Green is mainly for press fit applications such as press on bearings, gears etc. or fine thread locker up to half inch. I consulted Loctite directly and described what I was doing and what would be the absolute best solution and green was their call not mine so I went with it.
Supreme Member

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 2
From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
I really wouldn't not feel safe with anything but safety wire. Safety wire and pliers are about $30 and you know for sure they are never coming off.
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,383
Likes: 0
From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by 89 Iroc Z
I really wouldn't not feel safe with anything but safety wire. Safety wire and pliers are about $30 and you know for sure they are never coming off.
I really wouldn't not feel safe with anything but safety wire. Safety wire and pliers are about $30 and you know for sure they are never coming off.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 4
From: In the Garage
Car: Camaro
Engine: 6.2L
Transmission: T56
I really wouldn't not feel safe with anything but safety wire. Safety wire and pliers are about $30 and you know for sure they are never coming off.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 4
From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The GM 1LE brackets have little bumps in them that bite into the spindle when the bolts are torqued down. None of the others I'm aware of do. Perhaps there is a slight bracket movement under hard braking causing the bolts to loosen up. Or the bolt holes were tapped slightly off perpendicular to the spindle.
Banned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 0
From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Locktite is fine if you never plan on removing it. Safetywire is best.
Not 1LE, but you get the idea. One quick snip and they loosen and remove without damage or gunk to the threads.
Not 1LE, but you get the idea. One quick snip and they loosen and remove without damage or gunk to the threads.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 4
From: In the Garage
Car: Camaro
Engine: 6.2L
Transmission: T56
When I did mine I actually ruined one spindle and had to start again. When I was drilling out the holes the spindle moved ever so slightly in the vise causing the hole to tweak a little oval. It was very slight and if it was for anything other than brakes I would have let it go but there is no room for error here so I trashed it and got another one.
vsixtoy the picture is a little fuzzy did you drill through the bolt head and put the wire through or just wrap the wire around it?
vsixtoy the picture is a little fuzzy did you drill through the bolt head and put the wire through or just wrap the wire around it?
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Topeka, Ks
Car: 1988 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 6 speed
I had a similar problem too. When we drilled one of the top holes the spindle was jumping around really bad. When we tapped it out we didnt have very good threads at all. We just drilled it out bigger, then heli coiled it to the right size.
I am going to use red loctite. The top bolts on mine are gettin a lock washer and the bottom ones I am going to nut on the back side. With the right torque and loctite you shouldnt have to worry. Also good grade 8 stuff is a must...........
I am going to use red loctite. The top bolts on mine are gettin a lock washer and the bottom ones I am going to nut on the back side. With the right torque and loctite you shouldnt have to worry. Also good grade 8 stuff is a must...........
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Good thing you caught it, Chuck. I also recommend the wiring for the best method of prevention.
Ed
Ed
Banned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 0
From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by 87roc_t56
vsixtoy the picture is a little fuzzy did you drill through the bolt head and put the wire through or just wrap the wire around it?
vsixtoy the picture is a little fuzzy did you drill through the bolt head and put the wire through or just wrap the wire around it?
If you look closely in the picture, I have counter wired the bolts. What I mean by this is one is drilled in the head, the other is drill on the bottom threads on the next bolt that is threaded through from the back side. The wire wraps clockwise on one, and counter clockwise on the other because they are ftted from different sides of the bracket. If wiring bolts mounted from the same side, the wire needs to wrap both bolts from the clockwise position so it one or both bolts sart to lossen counterclockwise the wire snugs and prevents movement.
Banned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 0
From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Here's a better diagram Thin arrows at bottom show direction the bolts would have to turn to loosen out of the bracket. You can see how the wire will snug them tight if they try to lossen.
Last edited by vsixtoy; Nov 15, 2004 at 11:27 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 4
From: In the Garage
Car: Camaro
Engine: 6.2L
Transmission: T56
vsixoy Excellent explanation and illustrations :hail:
Looks like I have yet another winter project
On a sadder note I put the cars away today to sleep for the winter. The only good thing I can say is after driving all winter in my 305 truck with 350k miles the first few rips in the cars come springtime is sooooo satisfying
Looks like I have yet another winter project
On a sadder note I put the cars away today to sleep for the winter. The only good thing I can say is after driving all winter in my 305 truck with 350k miles the first few rips in the cars come springtime is sooooo satisfying
Supreme Member
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,945
Likes: 1
From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Originally posted by 87roc_t56
vsixoy Excellent explanation and illustrations :hail:
Looks like I have yet another winter project
On a sadder note I put the cars away today to sleep for the winter. The only good thing I can say is after driving all winter in my 305 truck with 350k miles the first few rips in the cars come springtime is sooooo satisfying
vsixoy Excellent explanation and illustrations :hail:
Looks like I have yet another winter project
On a sadder note I put the cars away today to sleep for the winter. The only good thing I can say is after driving all winter in my 305 truck with 350k miles the first few rips in the cars come springtime is sooooo satisfying
http://www.tavia.com/01421_instructions.html
man Ive done my fare share of doing safty wire when I worked for cessna. EVERY nut and bolt on aircraft get safty wired.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Here's a couple links to more wiring sites:
http://www.lrrsracing.com/RuleBook/lockwire.htm
http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html
Ed
http://www.lrrsracing.com/RuleBook/lockwire.htm
http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html
Ed
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eightsixseven
Tech / General Engine
2
Dec 16, 2024 01:50 PM
hectre13
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
2
Dec 11, 2023 08:14 AM
sailtexas186548
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
8
Jan 19, 2016 12:21 PM
1992 Trans Am
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
1
Aug 8, 2015 08:16 PM








