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HAWKS slotted rotors, take em or leave me?

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Old Mar 2, 2005 | 11:19 PM
  #1  
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Car: 86-FireBird
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HAWKS slotted rotors, take em or leave me?

HAWKS slotted rotors, take em or leave me?

I need rotors. Don't have big money to spend.
The rotors are $91 including shipping.

Should I hit the buy it now button???
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Old Mar 2, 2005 | 11:23 PM
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Car: 86-FireBird
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On the HAWKS main site.
They want $110 each for them rotors.
On Ebay its $60 a set, $31 shipping.

Price is right but............
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 12:05 AM
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Are they basically a stock size rotor? If so I'd say just go for $30 autozone rotors.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 12:46 AM
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Leave em, just get raybestos rotors at your parts store.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 12:54 AM
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42


Slotted, not drilled for long life with no cracking between holes!!
Direct replacement for factory rotors
Greatly improved braking while retaining all other OEM Parts
Great for street or track... Brakes run up to 200° Cooler...Look Awesome!!
Superior wet weather performance!!
CNC Machined and Profiled to exceed OEM standards
Double Disc grinding ensures parallelism and eliminates runout and taper
Mill balanced to OEM specs to prevent vibration
QS-9000 Manufacturer
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 01:02 AM
  #6  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
autozone

DURALAST
HUB/ROTOR ASSEMBLY 5547 2 YR $35.99 each

VALUCRAFT 5547B 3 MO $24.99 each
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
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I agree; I'd just go with a standard regular 'ol rotor- unless you're in it for the look! My car stops like hell, and I've just got regular rotors with semi-metallic pads on stock calipers, with stock drum brakes in the rear.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
is the 2 year rotor worth the money???
Or go el-cheap-o 3 month $25 ones?

Price is driving my decision as after tax, the Hawks are only $17 more.

Last edited by Gumby; Mar 3, 2005 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 11:32 AM
  #9  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
CamaroZ28.com seems to think the hawks rotors aren't that bad.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 01:07 PM
  #10  
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FWIW, I've never heard of "hawks racing" and the pro stop name is used by Power Slot for their dimpled and slotted rotors. Who knows who came first or what not. Who knows what blanks "hawks racing" uses for their rotors. You're paying them to take probably off the shelf rotors and cut them.

IMO you're better off with some semblance of a reputation for plain old blanks. It's your money and you sound like you really want them, so get them. FWIW, the slots won't do a damn thing for you.

BTW, if you ask them and they say Brembo blanks, Brembos have Brembo actually on the rotor somewhere so you can verify when you get them.

http://www.hawksracing.com judge for yourself.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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Originally posted by 91Z28-350
FWIW, the slots won't do a damn thing for you.
I wouldn't say they don't do anything...
Attached Thumbnails HAWKS slotted rotors, take em or leave me?-crackedpowerslot.jpg  
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 01:58 PM
  #12  
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Are those cracked all the way around like that?

Ed
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 03:20 PM
  #13  
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wow

i have these



was 90$ canadian from ebay, i also bought a set of kevlar pads. you can feel the kevlar heat up as you brake and grab harder.

had thm on for about 10,000 kms

im getting a slight vibration now but i think its the drums. we will see in spring.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 04:00 PM
  #14  
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Originally posted by ebmiller88
Are those cracked all the way around like that?

Ed
I have no idea, I pulled it from a flame war on the topic of drilled/slotted rotors I read a while back. If anyone is interested it is located here.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 04:47 PM
  #15  
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That pic is questionable. Looks like a fake. Not 100% sure it is though. Blow it up and check the grain of the pic. There is also no depth to the slot.

Or someone took a cutting wheel to a stock disc. Never, ever seen slots for cars, sold or made like that. It would crack.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 04:56 PM
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Originally posted by Gumby
That pic is questionable. Looks like a fake. Not 100% sure it is though. Blow it up and check the grain of the pic. There is also no depth to the slot.

Or someone took a cutting wheel to a stock disc. Never, ever seen slots for cars, sold or made like that. It would crack.
They're power slots, here's an example of another set: . The fact of the matter is that about all a slot can do is introduce weak points in the crystalline structure. A friend of mine bought a set because they weren't much more than OEM and they cracked on him. There's just no point in doing it unless you're making a show car or they are incorporated into a rotor for a very specific race application. I think it's a shame all of the high end sportscars these days have them, but if I got a new z06, the first thing I would do is put on a set of nice big blanks.

Last edited by anondude13; Mar 3, 2005 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #17  
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From: Savannah GA
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
slots are designed to shave the pad as you stop. this is a good thing because when you heat up pads past their limit, they glaze over, and induce brake fade (mushy pedal, anyone?). by shaving the top layer off, you shave off the glazed portion. problem is, this shortens pad life considerably; but if you are more concerned with accurate, dependable braking with reduced fade than doing brakes every 12 months, go for it.

if slotted correctly, slotted rotors don't crack like that. the rotors in the pic do have depth, and are not fake; in fact, the grooves are too deep, hence the cracking. the rotors got too hot on more than one occassion, and bye bye to that set. This is why cross-drilling is combined with slotting so often.

020-.040 is about as deep as you should go with off-the-shelf blanks, whether they're raybestos, bendix, or chinaman specials (prostop aka pepboys white box). if you want good slotted rotors, get EBC rotors, or get rotors from a reputable brake company (wilwood, brembo, SSBC, baer, etc.) that makes their bread and butter from stopping your car. all in all, get the standard rotors, cuz if you warp them, it's not as much money lost, and you're not going to notice that huge of a difference on rotors alone. you have to get a really good pad, like a satisfied motorsports ceramic, or even better, Hawk HPS pads. pads will ultimately give you the biggest difference in braking without changing hydraulic parts.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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Originally posted by flyitlikustolit
you have to get a really good pad, like a satisfied motorsports ceramic, or even better, Hawk HPS pads. pads will ultimately give you the biggest difference in braking without changing hydraulic parts.
I agree. I just did a 4 corner rotor replacement with cheap blanks and Hawk HPS pads, I am quite pleased.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 06:20 AM
  #19  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
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Axle/Gears: 3:42
Thought id pass on the bit of info I learned.

Parts for the S10 are cheaper but are the same parts used on the Fbody.

I can save about $50 all around by saying I have an 86 S10 instead of an 86 Firebird. All part numbers match and cross reference. The name Firebird adds $20 to the price instantly.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 06:26 AM
  #20  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Oh and I think I'm gonna go with some regular blanks.
I'm poor/ cheap. One of the two.

As long as I say 86 S10.
I can get a new set/both blanks for $47.50

And have money left over for fancy pads.
I already have good pads on warranty.
But can get better now.


Whats the word with ceramic pads and stock blanks???
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 06:30 AM
  #21  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
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Hawks doesn't list my year under the pads????

Now if they fit all 3rd gen years, they would list it , right???
They would be hurting sales if so.


Hawk HPS Brake Pads (Front) 88-92
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/in...?v=1&pid=23421
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 06:50 AM
  #22  
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Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Try tirerack.com for the Hawk HPS pads. 38.00 a pair. For 86 camaro. I've gotten alot of good stuff through them and they're always quick and inexpensive.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 07:16 AM
  #23  
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From: Jeffersonville, In (Louisville, Ky)
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI, Edelbrock headers, 3in Flowmaster exhaust
Transmission: 700R4
I bought some off e-bay over a year ago and have had no problems with them. The zinc plating on them looks better than the stock rotors. I would buy another set. And the price is good.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 06:14 PM
  #24  
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This page is where I got mine. Looks like they have the pads you need.

http://www.buybrakes.com/hawk/apps-Pontiac.html
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 06:42 PM
  #25  
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Car: 86-FireBird
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Axle/Gears: 3:42
Nope, only rears are listed for my year 86


Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 2002-98
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1997-94
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1993
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes, Exc. Perf. Pkg, Exc. Turbo 1992-89
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes, Performance Pkg, Turbo 1992-89
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Drum Brakes 1992-89
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes (2Nd Design) 1988
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes (1St Design) 1988-82
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1981-79
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1978-69
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1968-67
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 08:21 PM
  #26  
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If they don't have Hawk HPS, just pick up some Bendix semi-metallic pads or Axxis Metal Master or Ultimate pads.

http://www.stoptech.com and http://www.buybrakes.com has Axxis, not saying buy from there as I don't know if there prices are good or not, but they have them for an 86. FWIW, I have "heard" that Axxis Metal Master is the Stillen Metal Matrix pads, but I do not know that first hand, just random chatter on the net. Axxis Ultimate is good, but dust badly. They are a kevlar composite pad and don't need to be heated up as much as the semi-metallics before braking gets good.

What you pick depends on how much dust you can handle.

FYI, look up the Hawk pads at their site, not hawks third gen. http://www.hawkperformance.com

Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes, Exc. Perf. Pkg, Exc. Turbo 1992-89 7070A-D154 HB119.594 7301-D413 HB112.540
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes, Performance Pkg, Turbo 1992-89 7300-D412 HB111.610 7301-D413 HB112.540
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Drum Brakes 1992-89 7070A-D154 HB119.594
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes (2Nd Design) 1988 7070A-D154 HB119.594 7301-D413 HB112.540
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes (1St Design) 1988-82 7070A-D154 HB119.594 7070A-D154 HB119.594

This information is on the http://www.buybrakes.com site also. There are 2 numbers. The text is for the car type you have...Firebird with Rear Disk brakes I presume. It doesn't matter anyway. HB119.594 is the replacement part for "154" brake pads....7070A-D154. "154" is what you would normally get if you go to AutoZone, PepBoy's, Kragen/Checkers, etc.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 09:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by Gumby
Nope, only rears are listed for my year 86


Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 2002-98
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1997-94
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1993
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes, Exc. Perf. Pkg, Exc. Turbo 1992-89
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes, Performance Pkg, Turbo 1992-89
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Drum Brakes 1992-89
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes (2Nd Design) 1988
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am - Rear Disc Brakes (1St Design) 1988w-82
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1981-79
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1978-69
Firebird, Formula, Trans Am 1968-67
Yes they are there... The rows correspond to the brake setup you have. If you look at the columns they list front and rear pads for your car. Please look more closely.
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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 04:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by Gumby


Slotted, not drilled for long life with no cracking between holes!!
Direct replacement for factory rotors
Greatly improved braking while retaining all other OEM Parts
Great for street or track... Brakes run up to 200° Cooler...Look Awesome!!
Superior wet weather performance!!
CNC Machined and Profiled to exceed OEM standards
Double Disc grinding ensures parallelism and eliminates runout and taper
Mill balanced to OEM specs to prevent vibration
QS-9000 Manufacturer
FWIW, I'm running the Hawks Racing slotted rotors on the front and rear of my car. No complaints.
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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 04:33 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by r3pp3r
I wouldn't say they don't do anything...
Notice where those rotors cracked. The slots shouldn't run through the outside edge of the rotor like that. It creates a weak spot and if you over heat them, cracking can occur.

Most companies don't slot their rotors that way.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 10:07 AM
  #30  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by BretD 88GTA
FWIW, I'm running the Hawks Racing slotted rotors on the front and rear of my car. No complaints.
Id sure like to hear from more Hawk slotted rotor owners before I buy. Only reason I haven't yet as I got low on cash to soon. Ya know how that goes. Gotta save up a few more bucks, also gonna inspect my stuff closer. Through the rim my rotors look like crap but I'm gonna tear it apart first.

Though this $2gl gas isn't helping me save.
Wasn't that a bunch of BS folks. Prices sky rocket as someone wrote a report saying we should expect $80 a barrel prices.
So every hack up the gas price to help this $80 myth come true.
How nice.

How id like a see a riot over gas prices that makes the
Rodney King riot look like a Bday party.
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Old Mar 8, 2005 | 10:42 AM
  #31  
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From: Texas
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350, 92 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Auburn gear posi, 3.08
These are what I'm using. (the cross-drilled ones)

www.sp-performance.com

Haven't had them long though. Just broken in.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 03:14 AM
  #32  
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Car: Agood2.8,
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First off. I have seen many rotors with stress cracks for overheating them, but I have never seen a rotor fail and actually come apart. Anyone here ever have? I so, show me a picture.

Secondly. Its the quality of metal that makes a good rotor. Powerslot rotors are terrible. I can tell you from first hand experience. It Powerslot is making those rotors for Hawks (which it does look that way to me) I would stay far away from them. They are made from cheap quality metal and the rotors will warp on you very easily. I turned my 3 times in nine months, then I gave them away to someone for free that was in need of rotors to et his car at least driveable.

I have run Stillen products on a few of my cars for years (drilled rotors, pads) I have never had a problem with any Stillen rotors cracking. I only changed these pictured below because of the damn brake pad rattling that is inherit in the Iron caliper design. No matter what you do to them, the rattling will come back when the pads get hot and slack develops in the tabs from heat. But if you want very good 10.5" rotors, these are it from Stillen. Or you can go a little more pricey with the Wilwoods on the right. Note that the slots do not invade into the outer edges. Brat above addressed this about the Hawk rotors and he is correct that it will in fact cause that severe cracking as shown in a post above.

P.s. The one on the right weighs less than the one on the left.
Attached Thumbnails HAWKS slotted rotors, take em or leave me?-c-documents-settings-office  

Last edited by RTFC; Mar 9, 2005 at 03:16 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 08:18 AM
  #33  
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Car: 86-FireBird
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Axle/Gears: 3:42
F stillen.com

The website blows.
Messed up java scripts that wont work with IE 5.50 or Opera.
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 10:04 PM
  #34  
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Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
http://www.nasaforums.com/viewtopic....ghlight=rotors

I've also had a ford rotor come apart like that due to rust. It depends on the metal, purpose, and pads. If you don't get the pads hot enough to produce gasses then you don't need slots or holes. If you do, I would try better pads first.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 12:48 PM
  #35  
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I gotta get some rotors soon. It was finally nice enough out to inspect everything close. I have plenty of pad left. But the rotors are trashed.

Super trashed.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 10:45 PM
  #36  
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From: Dallas, Tx
Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: lt1 intaked 355 makin 277 on 25 psi of fuel pressure and stock timing :)
Transmission: A4 stock... that moved a mobile dyno a foot shifting into 2nd :)
BTW to the thread starter those rotors are actually a wagner brand i have the same set.... bought them off ebay...but arent installed... and i also bought the 1le rotors
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