It was very nice of 18inchboyds to offer a used prop valve to replace my valve with the destroyed plastic switch. Thank you. I have been reading the thread on modifying the valve for more rear pressure.
While the initial sentiment on this mod was positive, further reading reveals that within a short time after the alteration, the valve wears, causing less front pressure, and rear locking.

If this is the case, wouldn't adjusting the spring (I think that there is one on each side of the plunger) for length and tension be a better fix? The original end-plug can then be re-used with a brake-fluid-resistant sealer.

I do not even pretend to have a good understanding of how the valve does what it needs to do, but does this make any sense? Without alterations to the pipes, to use a newer (metric-thread) valve, or a Willwood adjustable, there are few simple ways to increase pressure to the rear discs.

P.S.
Member 'Shagwell' posted about shimming the spring(s) with good results. Answers from him would be appreciated.

Seth

 

How else does one highlight a post from which he still wants replies? He replies to his own post, to bring it to the top of the page, that's how.

I will add that my dash light would not go out, even with repeated bleeding. Then I pushed the front pistons back ointo their bores (with a 'C'-clamp), pressed the brake pedal, and the brake light went out.
Now, how did 'Shagwell' shim the prop valve spring, to increase rear pressure????????????????

Seth

 

its not that the fronts get less pressure, its that the rears get too much.