The front driver's side wheel squeaks whenever I am not braking. It squeaks each time the wheel goes around I think because the squeaks get faster and faster as I increase speed. If I brake lightly the sound completely goes away but as soon as I let off the brake, the squeak returns. It's driving me nuts - what do you think is causing this noise? Thanks

I don't know if you realise this but brake pads are usually ever so slightly in contact with the disc at all times. If the pads retracted far enough away to leave a gap then that gap would need to be taken up every time you press the pedal.

Anyway, this ever so slight contact is what causes the squeal. Hence, when you put the brakes on the squeal disappears. You could try and clean up the pads and caliper to get rid of dust and/or replace anti-rattle clips/plates/shims (haven't stripped my brakes yet so don't know what an f-body has in those terms).

Sound like a bird chirping? Good possibility it is the low pad indicator. Meaning that it is time for new brake pads.

RBob.

Yes, it is most likely the wear clip that tells you when your pads are wore.....the sound you are possibly hearing it the clip rubbing the rotor....if the brakes are not wore they sell this stuff in a little aresol can that you spray on your rotor and it helps stop the squek....let me know if this helps.

As stated before, the inner pads have wear indicators that contact the rotor to make noise when the pads wear to about 1-2mm. The noise goes away when applying the brakes. Too much longer and the pad rivets will contact the rotor and grind, causing damage to the rotors. Consider it a warning, and replace the front pads now, rather than pads AND rotors soon.

As stated above. . .

Al.

Well I replaced the pads - you guys were right. The outside pads on both wheels were worn down to almost nothing, but the inside pads still had plenty left. However, the squeaking completely stopped. Thanks for all the help.

well now I am kind of worried, I have been having the same exact problem as you described.

Its been driving me nuts actually, cause the screeching doesn't go away. I hope I dont have to get new rotors because of this...I am going to get the pads changed this coming weekend, and perhaps reinstall the new R134a A/C unit system.

have the same problem, doing the brakes tommorow

Pads will also squak and moan if you are running too hard a race pad on the street and it does not get to a high enough consitent operating temp.

mine has started doing that like yesterday and it is driving me up the wall. i swear i wanna break it some times. also is there a way to make it stop for like a day or two till i can fix it....like break w/e is making the sound

Uneven wear is a sign of binding calipers and/or mounting hardware. These conditions will lead to pad crystallization, overheating and premature pad/rotor wear.

...just had the same thing start a day or so ago, thanks for the thread! Now I know what I'll be doing on my day off!
-G
\m/

After I put the new pads on the brakes felt great for about 2 days - I was able to lock the wheels easily. But after that they quickly got really weak and now I can't lock them up at all. It's almost like the lining on the pads burnt off and now the brakes suck. Any ideas? Thanks

he is correct. make sure you use antisieze on the pads where it touches the caliper/holding bracket, slidebolt grease on the caliper slidebolts, and if you need to anti-squeek stuff on the back of both pads (not the braking surface!)

you may have glazed or "glassed" the rotors from too much stopping and not letting the rotors cool off. try and burn the glaze off by doing a couple of hard stops from 70mph on a vacant road (without locking them up) making sure to give at least a 5 min driving break inbetween to let the rotors cool off and you may be able to burn them clean. if not then they might need to be turned.

p.s. did you have the rotors turned with the new pads or just did a pad slap. its also very important that you seat the pads expecially when doing a pad slap. this consists of stopping slowly from 15mph and then working your way up in speed and how hard you brake. and give enough time inbetween to cool them off. i think manufacturer spec is two or three hard brakes from 50 with 3 minutes of driving inbetween.

Unless you are using new ones turning (machining) the rotors is required anytime you replace pads, PERIOD. It's not optional, it must be done. Here's why...
Most brake NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) is caused by pad material remaining on the rotor face. This material causes pulling, perceived "warp" sensations (shaking), squealing, excessive pad wear, and sometimes a "grinding" sensation even though you have no metal-to-metal surface contact.
Machining a reused rotor removes any surface contaminates, pad residue, and when properly done allows much faster "bedding" of the new pads.
The proper procedure for bedding in street pads is...
40 mph to 10 mph (3) times in succession with 1 minute intervals in between, then cooling for 4 -5 minutes before (2) 50 mph to 0 stops, cooling for at least 2 minutes between stops. There are some pads that have a "bedding" material on the surface (Bendix Titaniums, for example) and I would drive it as directed by the manufacturers instructions for a couple of days (to burn it off) before doing a true bed-in procedure.