wuts up everyone. i have a 90 Camaro rs and im gettin a loud squeaking noise from the left from tire area. the sound good away tho as soon as i apply the brakes. the brake pads look fine, so my next thought was mayb my rotors are warped? wut does everyone else think?

 

dose it have metalic brake pads cause when my sister had my car it had some metalic pads and they would scream the hole time she would drive but when she put the breaks on they didnt

 

that im not sure .how would i tell?

 

im not sure i didnt really deal with the problem it was when my sister owend the car.i just know what the problem was

 

o i c, ill probaly just replace both brakes and rotors. not looking foward to the rotor part

 

well imo you should always have the rotors cut or replaced when putting brake pads on....... thats just the correct way of doing it.

at the same time it's real easy to remove rotors, much easier than people make it out to be as long as you know the tricks and such.
heres a couple pointers.

you'll want a 3/8 allen bit, long 3/8 ratchet for the calipers.

sidecutters preferrably the angled kind but, any work. (thats for working the cotter pin lose after you pull the greese cap off which pops right off like a paint can lid with a flat head).

Use the pair of sidecutters to shimmy the cotterpin out by, working them side to side against the stop nut until the cotterpins out... You may need to lightly bend the cotterpin over slightly with a flat head to get this to work at the start).

also you need a set of channel locks or crescent wrench to bring lose the stop nut normally. After it's removed slide the rotor towards you slightly, just enough that you can grab the outer bearing. After you have the outer bearing put the stop nut back on the spindle. slide the rotor towards you while letting it slide on the spindle. That removes the inner wheel seel and the inner wheel bearing.

make sure you use wheel bearing greese when you reassemble dunno how many times i've pulled these apart and found **** greese in them that melts right off.

make sure to get a can of break cleaner while doing this if using new rotors.

also pack the bearings good and put a good bit of greese inside the hub between the 2 bearings. pound the wheel seal on lightly like putting a paintcan lid back on.

then reassemble in reverse order wheel bearing preload is a bit to hard to describe with words but, don't go to tight or to lose...... use a trq wrench and do it the book definition if you haven't done many of that style before because, you can kill a wheel bearing real quick going overly tight or cause a pretty lose front end going overly lose so be careful use your brain.....

btw semi mettalic pads are factory on these cars and should be reused imo..... They tend to make a lot of noise sometimes but, that can be remedied if thats the case.

i just redid my fronts again and they have carquest full mettalic pads (sick of massive brake fade they help a little). New calipers and new rotors. Dissassembled and relubed the new calipers before install and used the non squeak gell on the back of the pads. Mine still makes a hell of a racket while stopping, kinda just have to get use to it i guess (these full mettalic pads are nothing like the factory semi mettalics)...... i've done this style brake setup with all styles so far and the best all around 4 stopping is the full mettalic but, it's realy noisy and tears up rotors to boot) Probably should have done a better coating of stop squeak. I'll probably reapply that next time the wheels are off but, yah you get the idea.

btw you'll need a c-clamp or a big pair of channel locks to compress the caliper piston.

 

thanks man i appreciate the help a lot. ill be taking your list up to advanced auto with me tmrw when i go to get the parts. wish me luck