OK I put a Moser nine inch in my car with ford explorer rear disk brakes. I ran ford explores rear brake hoses from the calipers to the rear end and then ran hard lines to the rear brake line T. I also swapped the proportioning valve out for one from a 92 firebird with rear disks because my car was factory drums. I bench bleed the master hooked everything up and bleed the **** out the brakes.
While bleeding the brakes I noticed that the pedal was not going to the floor when I craked the bleeder, but I was getting fluid out of the bleeders? And to my suprise when I started up the car (on jack stands) the rear brakes would not even stop the rear axels from spinning in drive?? So I re-bled the brakes and still nothing.
I did noticed that the rear hard lines that I ran from the rear T were seaping fluided from the fittings but not enough to drip and I could not get them any tighter (I made the lines from 3/16" coiled brake line stock that I believe was to hard preventing a good seal and making it hard flare). So I am in the process of remaking lines and I am going to try to vacuum bleed the lines.
any ideas?
Thanks
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I forgot to say when the car is off the pedal goes about 1/2 way down and stops and when the car is startd the pedal goes almost to the floor and is very light. I also belive that the fronts are working fine.
While bleeding the brakes I noticed that the pedal was not going to the floor when I craked the bleeder, but I was getting fluid out of the bleeders? And to my suprise when I started up the car (on jack stands) the rear brakes would not even stop the rear axels from spinning in drive?? So I re-bled the brakes and still nothing.
I did noticed that the rear hard lines that I ran from the rear T were seaping fluided from the fittings but not enough to drip and I could not get them any tighter (I made the lines from 3/16" coiled brake line stock that I believe was to hard preventing a good seal and making it hard flare). So I am in the process of remaking lines and I am going to try to vacuum bleed the lines.
any ideas?
Thanks
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I forgot to say when the car is off the pedal goes about 1/2 way down and stops and when the car is startd the pedal goes almost to the floor and is very light. I also belive that the fronts are working fine.
Senior Member
its a ford explorer, FORD, but is there any computer plug ins on it, and are there any more leaks, and is the porportioning valve good enough to feed those, and as experience, the small leaks do prevent some work in the calipars, and that may be another problem there, when the bleeders are cracked open, i hear you shouldnt hit the brake pedal, cuz it throws of the porportioning valve in older cars, so that is a couple things that may help you
I got all the lines to seal and vacuum bled the brakes and now the brakes stop the rear wheels when the car is up on jack stands and in drive. But now I am curious of how much stoping power should rear disks have? I know that the weight of the car and tire friction will effect the rpm at which the car want to roll when drag stagging. If I hold the brake pedal as hard as I can and rev the car the tires start to spin about 1000-1200 rpm when on jack stands, does this seem low?