I will be installing the 9 bolt next week and I'm trying to get all the parts together. I have decided on Hawk HP-Plus brake pads but I don't know what part # to get. I'm not sure what year the new rear is from but none of the brakes on my car are the PBR's or the 1LE/WS6 stuff. Where can I get them the cheapest and soonest.

Thanks,
Mike

PS - I'm also in desperate need of a gasket for the 9bolt differential cover. Any idea where to get one within a week? I'm not a big fan of RTV.

If you have the factory iron calipers in the rear, they dont list it but the pads for the fronts will fit fine in those calipers. The compound might be a little too much though, since the rear brakes dont do anywhere near as much braking and dont really get up to temp with hard compounds.

Part #:
HB119N.594
Is what they list for HP+ for the fronts.

Thanks, but where can I get them the cheapest? If that won't be good for the rear, what do you suggest... the HPS?

Also which brake line kit would work for me?
Earls: http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%27s/361/28A190/10002/-1
Russels: http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/692050/10002/-1
The earls lines have 4 braided lines and the russels only have 3. One for each front wheel and one for the rear end = 3... correct?

For brake fluid... how hard is it to swap to DOT5? What is involved when it says "must remove all DOT3 fluid." I'm thinking DOT3 is fine for me because I'm not road racing where there are constant high temperatures in the brake system.

A little off topic, but what kind of U-joints do I need? I found two different sizes on Jegs and don't know which to get.

More help please.

I got mine from The Tire Rack.
Same pads, front and rear, for the old 4 wheel discs.

Why would you swap to DOT 5 brake fluid?
It is just another fluid, it's no better quality than DOT 3.

There are 4 hoses. 2 up front, one from the body to the rear axle, and one of the rear calipers has a hose. I've heard of one of those snapping at the block-fitting interface (I think the Russel) so... I would not get those.

The HPS pads in back might be better. I've run organic, regular semi-met, heavy duty semi-met, and carbon-met pads in back and while the carbon pads had zero fade and stopped best, that was only when they were REALLY hot. 99.9% of the time (even doing auto-x) they will not be that hot. The regular semi-metallic I was the most happy with for any condition.

What u-joints are you looking at?

Ok, I know I'm getting...

• HP+ for the front and HPS for the rear
• Earls braided lines
• DOT3 brake fluid

I figured I should have the U-joints replaced since they have about a 130k miles on them... I have to mess with them anyway so why not. How much does it cost to have them pressed into place? What kind/size of U-joint do I need? I found two different sizes on Jegs.

I also need a new torque arm bushing because I'm missing half my stock rubber one. I couldn't get a good look under my car but it seems like it faces the driveshaft. Does that seem right for an 87?

I have two disk/disk proportioning valves that I can swap in to replace my disk/drum unit.

Should I replace anything else while I'm down there?
Mike