Okay I go to pull my TA outside to buff it some more and I notice something on the ground. Brake Fluid. S.O.B!!! My cheap...err thifty self left the wheelcyls as the only unknown quantity. I know...I know

So I go to Crapa and get 2 wheel cyls, brakekleen and they tell me 'metric or standard?' my response 'really, uhm...sheesh I'll be back' Go home, spend 45 minutes trying to get 2 awls behind the backing plate to get that SOB off. I butchered the circlip but got the offending WC off. Back to Crapa. Metric. Crapa and AutoCabron only have standard thread...back home, start buffing for about 30min; back to Napa, 2 wheel cyls and circlips UGH.

Finally! Here we go! I couldnt get my 90* needlenose pliers or the awls to push the circlip on evenly. After cussing and a beer I remembered an old farm trick from my 92yr old grandpa.

Materials: Pipe approx halfway between the ID and OD of the circlip, Barstock/angle iron longer than the piece of pipe is across, BIG C-clamp

(1) I grabbed a chunk of exhaust pipe from...something and cut about 3" off then slit that on one side the long way so it makes a 'C' shape ( I cut a .25" wide strip out).

(2) Then take this piece of pipe and match it to the circlip. The objective here is to 'finesse' this pipe into a seal driver, try to get the OD (outside diameter) of the pipe approx halfway between the Inside Diameter (ID) and OD of the circlip.

(3) Take a BIG C-clamp and a a piece of thick metal or wood (something VERY ridgid that you can compress against - I used a scrap of aluminum bar stock, angle iron works also)

(4) After wedging the WC in place with a screwdriver handle (as per the Chitlin's Manual) I layed the circlip in place, with the seal driver on top of it and the piece of bar stock on top of that.

(5) I put one jaw of the C-clamp centered on the barstock approx in the middle of the seal driver, and the screw side of the clamp I screwed against the axle flange.

(6) Screw the clamp in untill the circlip is firmly seated. Grab the WC and try firmly to move it. Keep using the clamp until the 'clip' is fully seated

(7) Knock the screwdriver/spacer out with a hammer and disassemble your sandwich. you'll probably need to whack the seal driver with a hammer to get it out, or wedge a screwdriver in the slit and pry it out GENTLY

**NOTE** Make damn sure that wheelcyl is on TIGHT...keep cranking on your installation tool till its on good and snug, this is the only real sketchy part of this and its because its hard to tell when that clip is seated far enough. It took a couple times for me to feel confident.

**NOTE 2** Failure to slit the pipe along its length means you wont be able to remove it most likely without a LOT of bitching. Clamp it in a vise horizontally and use a hacksaw or cut off tool.

Pics: I didnt get pics of everything but I got a pic of the parts and the way theyre stacked.
PIC 1: piece of pipe and the c-clip. You cant really see the slit in the pic but its at about 10 o'clock on the pipe, sorry about that
PIC 2: pipe and circlip
PIC 3: Barstock, pipe and circlip; C-clamp should be approx. centered to the pipe but clamping on the barstock (where my ring-finger is). Screw side of clamp will be against the axle flange.


You can use this trick to install a lot of bushings and seals, just use a flat plate where the axle flange is in this example. Ive also used a bench vise and a deep impact socket with 2 pieces of 2x4 against the jaws.
Hope This Helps

~Nate

 

I never could figure out why they used the WC on these cars.. What's wrong with 4 bolts?!

 

I just replaced both of mine as well. I'll add a couple notes:
I found a piece of 5/8 plywood also worked well to wedge between the WC and axle flange.
I have a "separator plier" dont know if thats what you call it, but its the kind of pliers that open when you squeeze like snap ring pliers but with a bigger tip. It fits well enough to get the clip pushed in far enough so that it will stay there. then i used a screwdriver bit from a drill to pop each side in one at a time with a hammer. the flathead screw tip fits into the little groove where the clip tabs go and its short enough so i had room to get a good swing on the hammer.
there is a special tool available for this that i saw on ebay right after i finished.
Use a mechanics mirror to see what you are doing.
according to all the info on this forum, mine should have been metric as well ('86), but it was SAE. the lines and junction too, all SAE.

 

Apparently for 87 the SAE WC was more common...so of course I got the metric ones.
My 72 camaro? bolts to the backing plate. My dads 55 chevy? bolts to the backing plate. This design is rather idiotic, but the cost of the spring clip was probably a third of a cent cheaper than 3 bolts and chasing threads in castings. BTW the wheel cylinders were $18/pr at Napa if anyone is interested. Going foreward? Id buy the rebuild kit and do it on the car LOL

I also dont like the way the brake shoes sit against the WC. theres not much real estate for the WC to push against. (it could just be the shoes and parts the PO put on the car though, I dunno)

Anyway, I hope this lil trick helps you guys if you ever need a small press.

I tried a seal driver and I couldnt get enough throw with the hammer (maybe if I had the car on a lift and I was standing under the car. YMMV

 

yeah, i used 10 different tools until i found the drill bit. it was the only one that gave me enough swing on the hammer. After i figured it out, the second one went pretty quick.
I hear you on the poor contact with the shoes, all the other drums i have done used slotted arms in the Wc to hold the shoe.
it is frustrating that GM cheaped out on the WC fastening as it otherwise seeems to be a very good drum design. the self adjust seems to work much better than the chrysler/jeep ones im used to.
all in all, the whole thing is a good reason to swap in a disc system!

 

I just used a 1 1/8" socket, as the GM manual states...