Prop Valve mod make it worse?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 489
Likes: 2
From: Chicago south suburbs
Car: 1988 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98(383tpi) modified
Transmission: 700R4 rebuilt
Axle/Gears: 3:73 10bolt rebuilt
Prop Valve mod make it worse?
My brakes were always bad, most likely due to my cam. I even have a brake booster and C4 up grade on the fronts. Which did a just ok improvement. But over the winter I did the Prop Valve mod up grade for the rears and now my brakes have little pedal. I also bought a Hurst line lock from one of the members awhile ago and hooked that up too. So I disconnected that but still hardly any pedal. I've been bleeding the brakes for 3-4 days straight, and still nothing. I'm about ready to take in to a shop and have them try and fix the problem, or at least tell me what the problem is so I can fix it. But any ways can removing the guts from the Prop Valve and then plugging it up with a Threaded plug cause you to loose pedal? I've already destroyed enough paint, so before I make more of a mess I would like to hear what other people have experienced.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 489
Likes: 2
From: Chicago south suburbs
Car: 1988 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98(383tpi) modified
Transmission: 700R4 rebuilt
Axle/Gears: 3:73 10bolt rebuilt
Re: Prop Valve mod make it worse?
Oh! the brake booster is a additional add on by Crane Cams.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,804
Likes: 103
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Prop Valve mod make it worse?
check for vacume leaks feeding the booster, thats where my issues came from.
Did you remove the internal piston in the prop valve?
you probably didnt, since you didnt mention leaking fluid through the brake light switch on top.
did you properly bench bleed the master?
does the pedal drop to the floor, or travel about an inch then get really hard?
Did you remove the internal piston in the prop valve?
you probably didnt, since you didnt mention leaking fluid through the brake light switch on top.
did you properly bench bleed the master?
does the pedal drop to the floor, or travel about an inch then get really hard?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 489
Likes: 2
From: Chicago south suburbs
Car: 1988 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98(383tpi) modified
Transmission: 700R4 rebuilt
Axle/Gears: 3:73 10bolt rebuilt
Re: Prop Valve mod make it worse?
check for vacume leaks feeding the booster, thats where my issues came from.
Did you remove the internal piston in the prop valve?
you probably didnt, since you didnt mention leaking fluid through the brake light switch on top.
did you properly bench bleed the master?
does the pedal drop to the floor, or travel about an inch then get really hard?
Did you remove the internal piston in the prop valve?
you probably didnt, since you didnt mention leaking fluid through the brake light switch on top.
did you properly bench bleed the master?
does the pedal drop to the floor, or travel about an inch then get really hard?
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,804
Likes: 103
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
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