just a status report of what the hawk has been up to
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Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Hanover PA
just a status report of what the hawk has been up to
Hey guys, just realized I haven't posted about my progress since Spring Break Nationals.
Well, I did end up taking 4th at Spring Break Nationals, and was very pleased with that, since it was my first show ever.
Since then, I have taken 3rd place at 2 local events. Might have had higher at my last one, but got a 10 point deduction for very small turn on pop, and a slight background hiss. That will be taken care of shortly.
I have found that many of my imaging problems are being caused by my door mounted midbasses, which are crossed over at 300hz, with a 12db slope. Too much of the lower end vocals blead into this, pulling my sound stage to the right (or left, depending on seat). So for now, I am adding another 300hz, 12 db slope crossover to steepin it to 24 db. Hopefully, that helps a tad.
Also been getting less then perfect scores on subbass. Seems the w7 needs a tad more then the wimpy 300 watts my Tube Driver gives it.
So, for next season, I think I'm going to increase power, and add a JL 500/1 for the sub. I will then have the 4" and tweeter of my 3 way package on 1 Tube Driver amp, and will put the midbasses on the other amp. Also thinking of adding an additional 7" midbass to the doors, for a total of 2 in each, with 150 watts to each pair. that ought to give some decent midbass!
Other then that, in July, I'm planning a moderate rebuild of the hatch area. I'll post pics!
Again, thanks to all my kickpanel customers who made this possible!
mike
Well, I did end up taking 4th at Spring Break Nationals, and was very pleased with that, since it was my first show ever.
Since then, I have taken 3rd place at 2 local events. Might have had higher at my last one, but got a 10 point deduction for very small turn on pop, and a slight background hiss. That will be taken care of shortly.
I have found that many of my imaging problems are being caused by my door mounted midbasses, which are crossed over at 300hz, with a 12db slope. Too much of the lower end vocals blead into this, pulling my sound stage to the right (or left, depending on seat). So for now, I am adding another 300hz, 12 db slope crossover to steepin it to 24 db. Hopefully, that helps a tad.
Also been getting less then perfect scores on subbass. Seems the w7 needs a tad more then the wimpy 300 watts my Tube Driver gives it.
So, for next season, I think I'm going to increase power, and add a JL 500/1 for the sub. I will then have the 4" and tweeter of my 3 way package on 1 Tube Driver amp, and will put the midbasses on the other amp. Also thinking of adding an additional 7" midbass to the doors, for a total of 2 in each, with 150 watts to each pair. that ought to give some decent midbass!
Other then that, in July, I'm planning a moderate rebuild of the hatch area. I'll post pics!
Again, thanks to all my kickpanel customers who made this possible!
mike 
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Congrats on the 4th place.
The new amp situation sounds like a good plan. As I'm sure you already know, you'll never hear a big difference from a tube amp to a solid state unit on a sub. In fact, I think that "warm" sound can even be a hinderance on a sub. It can make it sound thick.
Plus, if you've got a dedicated amp for the mids, you can forget about tinkering with the pair of 12dB filters on each, and run an active filter at the pre-amp stage, which should help considerably. The active filter will be more accurate because you won't have the funky impedance matching problems, and it won't waste all of your power.
The new amp situation sounds like a good plan. As I'm sure you already know, you'll never hear a big difference from a tube amp to a solid state unit on a sub. In fact, I think that "warm" sound can even be a hinderance on a sub. It can make it sound thick.
Plus, if you've got a dedicated amp for the mids, you can forget about tinkering with the pair of 12dB filters on each, and run an active filter at the pre-amp stage, which should help considerably. The active filter will be more accurate because you won't have the funky impedance matching problems, and it won't waste all of your power.
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