Allllllllllllll-righty: I got the sub enclosure delivered to my door on Wednesday. I assembled everything that night. As I have no extra unused area of the car to mount the amps, I put the 850 on the top of the box and the 1200 on the rear wall opposite the subs. The cap sits right next to the 1200. My 0 gauge "T" blocks are beside the 850 and ready to tie in to the electrical system.

I received my DEI 530T window module today from UPS and I'll be installing the Viper 791 XV with the 530T tomorrow. I'll also run my 0 gauge supply line and toss the audio system in as well. Ohhhhh.....yeahhhhhh!

By my estimates, the assembly now weighs about ~135 pounds -- it'll be like when I had to swap out my rear axle. I need to work out more. hehe.

 

And here's the rear pic showing the KX1200.1:

 

nice setup, i like the way those kickers look. how are you going to have that box sitting, with the speakers firing right at the glass?looks to me like thats the only way it'd fit.
are you planning on tackling that alarm yourself?

 

that box doesn't look like it fits in a thirdgen... maybe it's just the angle...

plus, you're installing the 791xv yourself? sheesh... it's a hell of a nightmare going through all the wiring harness of the car to figure out where everything goes... expect about 6 hours if you've never done it before, (and assuming you have complete instructions telling you where to find all the wires and such.)

if you don't have color-coded instructions, you may not ever finish it... my 790xv is tapped into all sorts of harnesses, relays, modules, lights, etc...

the 530t anyone can do... give yourself about two hours alone for that one... pulling the console apart, wiring, trimming, testing... then you have to pull apart the dash to get to the alarm... but if you are doing it all at once, it may be easier.

good luck.

 

Yep...I plan on doing the alarm & the window module at the same time. I'll start off by pulling the shifter plate (I have an auto tranny) and hope that gives me enough room to work with.

I understand most of the wires in the 791 except for these:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=317151

Check out my last post. It all looked rather overwhelming until I started comparing the alarm wiring against the Mitchell repair info. Now, my only questions are ones stemming from crappy documentation on DEI's side.

The box is close to the same size as my last one. It should fit, but I may have to move my seat up a click, which will suck because I'm 6'4" and I keep it back as far as it will go. Sorry for the bad pics, though -- low lighting & I had to tweak them out in PSP v7.0.

I would LOVE to aim the subs toward the front, but they may be damaged. I'll try it in both directions to see what works the best.

 

I don't know where you could find anything else... but on DEI's website they have the 791xv installation manual... colors and everything...

did you get the radar/proximity sensor?

 

so... you're putting the box in the back seat? eh...

 

Proximity sensor -- not yet. Next week I plan on buying 3 DEI 506T Glass Breakage Sensors and 1 DEI 508D Dual Zone Disturbance Sensor from http://www.plasmacreations.com/

It should be about $93 with shipping. Tomorrow I will be buying a pair of DEI 513T Mini Piezo Sirens and a strobe light to add a little flair to the life of a potential thief. I'm also going to build a tracking transmitter (w/battery backup) to place inside the enclosure. I want to place a high voltage/low current "shock" system on the enclosure as well, but I'm having trouble figuring out where the best place would be...

I had the rear seats folded down with the amp on top with my old setup and since it's the only way it'll work -- that I'll do again.

 

going to move YOUR seat up?? i'm an inch shorter than you, and i dont compromise ANY leg room in a third gen lol. never heard a backseat system in a thirdgen but i know in the hatch behind the seats it sounds much better facing backward, i had a small sealed box like that with 2 jl 10w3's a few years ago. was much quieter facing forward. in my opinion the best place for subs in a third gen is in the well, although not having all that cargo space does kind of suck.

i would think since your last system got stolen sitting in your backseat you wouldnt want it just chilling there again, even with a nice alarm.
i pity the fool that tries to get my box out of my car without ripping the hatch open. even then, its just about impossible for one person to do quickly, even with 2 its a feat.

 

I just counted & the 791 XV has 49 connections:

 

The 530T has 15 connections:

 

I think I just figured out how I'm going to implement the shock system: I'll lace the enclosure with small (maybe 28 gauge) non-insulated wires about an inch apart. The circuit will be powered by a 555 circuit running at maybe 100Hz. I'm considering using MOSFETS to switch the +12VDC power from the battery on & off rapidly and then through a transformer to bump up the voltage. The beauty of it is that with the alarm, I can power the 555 via the orange ARM wire.

 

I'll see you in prison...

also, you cannot transform DC, you'd have to convert it AC, transform it up, then convert back to DC

if you ask me, you are basically asking the thieves to steal it again if you put it in the back seat... there is no way to make it stealth... unlike the hatch, which is easy to hide stuff.

the alarm only stops wannabe theives... plus, do you have the battery backup? because if I was a desparate thief, the first thing I would do is find the alarm brain and cut off all the harnesses... takes care of the alarm... then about a minute, and the box will be gone from the back seat.

You even made it convenient by putting the amps on the removable box...

lastly, you only need one glassbreak sensor... it's a microphone, and doesn't have to be on the actual window that breaks. the only place to put it in our cars is really the top of the rear hatch, since you can't put it on the side windows, (since they roll all the way down.)

Back to my first statement... you can and will be sued by someone that breaks into your car and gets hurt/shocked. It's horrible, but they will win the case against you, since it's obvious that your contraption was designed from the ground up to harm a human.

I'd love to have two windows in each door, an outter metal window that you cannot see through, plus the same on the windshield and hatch... then our cars would be perfect. Flaunt your stereo all you want!

 

1.) For the 555 circuitry, I was merely going to chop the DC with the 555 and feed it into a transformer. It will give a nasty shock, but I have to do the math to make certain it is not lethal.

2.) I'll fasten the enclosure down this time -- last time it was just sitting there. Duh on me.

3.) The alarm will most definitely have a battery backup & I'm seriously considering a CCD camera system as well.

4.) As I have never messed with the glass breakage sensors, I did not know that they were sensitive enough to serve the entire vehicle. Makes for an extra $30 for me!

5.) The shock system is designed to thwart, but not harm. I may lose, but I WILL fight it to the death if someone were to sue me for stealing MY equipment. I do have to check on Florida state law, though, to see how far this rediculous legal crap goes (My girlie just graduated from Miami U for law so maybe that helps.).

6.) I'd love to have the batmobile, too.

 

Florida may be tough... at least in Texas I'd have a chance...

how much power will it take to keep that box electrified, and what prevents something from accidentally touching it? Say you have a pet in the car or something.

 

actually now that i think about it i did drive around for a couple of months when i was 16, with a borrowed orion xtr 12 in a huge bandpass box my friend made in my backseat, the port was firing at the back of the car, rear was supported on the platform under the hatch, the front was "supported" by a little block of wood lol. it actually hit pretty hard i thought, but i was 16 then, if i heard my system now i probably would have pissed myself.

 

if you r really gonna build that shock system u may wanna put your amps somewhere else cause if somethin bridges the gaps between the wire and the amp u may be asking for trouble...not to mention the interferance u will get in the rcas.

 

I'm going to set up the shock system with an ENABLE line that only powers it if the alarm is armed. Maybe I'll put a latch in as well that will keep it powered even if the alarm is killed and until the key is in the ignition.

Yeah...this system will put out a nice amount of EMI. Shouldn't interfere with standard communications, but it would make the audio system really noisy if it were armed with the amps on. That's another reason to enable it off the alarm's ARMED output.

 

Well...I got the entire audio system & the DEI 530T window module in completely. The audio's not mixed very well yet, though. I installed basically just the H1 harness on the Viper 791 XV because I was getting an EXTREME headache from dehydration by the time I was finished with all the rest. I need to order a few relays anyway so I'll finish it next weekend; including the remote start.

The 530T was e-a-s-y! I had the factory wiring diagram with me and it was as easy as cutting the DARK BLUE, BROWN, LIGHT BLUE & TAN wires and splicing the 530T harnesses into the cut ends and tying into the BLACK grounds. Cake...

 

The subs are currently breaking-in. I should know in about a week how they really sound. Today, the break-in music was Korn...tomorrow maybe some Missy.

 

weird... I've never heard a sub break-in... mine have always sounded the same since I purchased them...

do some brands 'break' their subs in before they get to the stores? I know my PPI stuff sounds exactly the same...

 

My old Comps & CompVR's didn't seem to require any break-in. The L7's (and probably L5's) seem to absolutely require it.

Years ago, before I had to money to get any of this, my dream system had a set of PPI Pro 12's. I know they make good stuff. It's Precision Power Instruments, right?

 

I think it's Instruments... but all the boxes said on them was Precision Power... and that's all you find on their website now too... so I really don't know...

As of a year ago, PPI is now owned by Directed... so their quality has dropped to nill.

 

Directed as in DEI?

 

you better believe it.

death of PPI

 

OK...I finally got some time this evening to sort out some problems with the new system. The KX850.4 sounded great even through some mid-level $100 speakers, but the bass was non-existent unless I was listening to a really bass-heavy song AND gave about 8+ dB of boost @ 40Hz from the KX1200.1.

I knew I'd connected everything properly, but rechecked on Sunday when I cut the speaker carper from around the sub gaskets & added in some Polyfil ($2.77 for 20oz from Wal-Mart!). Just for reference to anyone experiencing a profound lack of bass from a 1200W amp, here goes:

1.) My Kicker L7's absolutely required break-in before they'd really make any noise.
2.) My JVC KD-LH810 head has 4V preamp outs for all four component speakers, but 2V preamp outs for the sub out channel. The KX1200.1 can adjust from 170mV to 5V, but still seemed unable to match levels properly with the head. There seems to be a few reasons for this. First, I unplugged the remote bass boost module and my gain seemed to be bumped up at least 15dB. I guess it's an attenuation module instead of a boost, but something was screwy because it sounds MUCH better without the module plugged in. Maybe I pinched the boost signal line when I routed it through the car.

Also, it looks like my JVC head had all the sub out parameters set VERY conservatively. I moved these up and set the KX1200.1 gain to about 8 out of 11 on the dial. I'll probably end up running the RCAs for the rear two component speakers to the sub amp and use the unprocessed preouts from the KX1200.1 to the KX850.4 inputs. I'd like a nice 4V signal to the KX1200.1 as I do not trust some of the setting for the sub outs on the JVC head.

The Results: It's SLAMMING @ 20 of 50 on the volume control at the head. Also sounds much more full now -- it sounded like a sub was out of phase before I fixed it, but this was not the case.

And just to answer a previous question -- the box fits perfectly sitting on top of the folded-down rear seats and the subs are aiming forward.

 

you send completely un-altered sound to the RCAs to your 6x9s?

wow.

I bet they vibrate and sound horrible.

you don't use the built-in cut-offs? (in the head unit)

 

Not at all...The KX850.4 and the KX1200.1 both have integrated crossovers. I've the KX850.4 set to about 90Hz High pass.

 

oh, you use the amplifier for that... I personally like using the headunit, or an external crossover... I find that the amplifier's are not as accurate... plus my AutoEQ/TA fails if I artificially modify the crossover on the amp.

 

if you're still planning on the shock system, why not have it so it only arms if the alarm is going off? i assume if you go to all that trouble you'll have a backup battery or two, and have them well hidden, then they have to set the alarm off to grab the box.

 

DO NOT DO THE SHOCK SYSTEM ON YOUR BOX!!!! You WILL end up in jail for it. You cannot cause harm with your alarm. It's the same in all the states no matter what. If you could do something to cause harm, dont you think that someone would make a piece that hooks right up to your alarm and works exactly how everyone on here has said it should? Now that I got that outta the way....
yes, some subs do require break in. My subs were recommended by the person in R&D who developed the sub to play at 40 hertz at a medium level for aprox 2 hours before pounding the holy hell outta them. We tell all our customers to break in all there subs with some music that will work them hard. We tell them to play it at mid level for about 30 min to let the voicecoil warm up slowly and not get burnt from sending lots of power to it initially. It does happen. You wouldn't take your brand new motor out right after you got it put in and run the hell outta it and top it out would you? Same with subs, and even some amps.

When I was reading the beginning posts, I saw a lil bit of Kicker bashing. I wanted to get in on it! Kicker has alwayz made a good sub, but there warranties are what suck. Lots of stuff is now 3 year warranty instead of 1 year. And by buying it off the net, chances are if you do blow something and have to send it in, you wont see it again. The L7's are made for heavy spl bass, not sq, but they dont sound so bad as to not put them in your car because they DO pound and most of us can get over the fact that they dont sound as good, because we just want the rumble anywayz, right .

Nice choice on the alarm, by the way, I've alwayz like viper alarms. The LCD keypad and window roll-down are cool, eh ? Gottem on my car too. Did you get it set up correctly on the first try as in when a semi drives by it doesnt go off does it? How sensitive did you set it? As for the field disturbance things..BADA$$! I have that as well, and when the wind blows thru my window and moves the tassle hanging from the mirror, it chirps the first stage of warning...only thing I dont like is that if you move really slow, you can reach all the way in and grab stuff off the seat. But who's gonna stand there and do that?

I don't think that anyone asked, but does it sound better than your old setup? And what was the bonus for, anywayz?

 

is this the radar proximity sensor? or what? can you give the model #? I believe there are two...

 

Ill get the model number tomorrow from work for ya, but Im pretty sure its called a Field Disturbance sensor. Proximity radar sounds like the same thing.

 

Invisibeam® Field Disturbance Sensor = #508D

I think it works with magnetic fields... seeing how that's the only way it can work, without line-of-sight.

It's just like those loops in the ground at stoplights that detect vehicles.