PhLaXuS

OK...my system was stolen about 10 weeks ago. yeah...it really blew. I came into work today to find a $2000 bonus check waiting for me. I got online tonight and made these orders:

Etronics.com Order:
===================
Qty Item Price SubTotal
1 Kicker 04KX1200.1 Class D Subwoofer Amplifier $449.99 $ 449.99
1 Kicker 04KX850.4 4 Channel Amplifier $364.99 $ 364.99
2 Kicker 04S12L74 12" Solo-Baric L74 Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer $209.99 $ 419.98
1 Lanzar LQ12CAP 1.2 Farad Digital Power Capacitor $ 64.99 $ 64.99
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal: $1299.95
Shipping: $ 76.92
Total: $1376.87





Hi-Fi Sound Connection Order:
=============================
Qty Item Price SubTotal
30 Stinger SPRO0R PRO Series 0AWG Red Car Audio Power Wire $ 2.55 $ 76.50
10 Stinger SPRO0 PRO Series 0AWG Black Car Audio Power Wire $ 2.55 $ 25.50
10 Stinger SPRO4R PRO Series 4AWG Red Car Audio Power Wire $ 0.99 $ 9.90
10 Stinger SPRO4B PRO Series 4AWG Black Car Audio Power Wire $ 0.99 $ 9.90
2 Stinger STEE0 Tee Distribution Block 1/0AWG $ 6.23 $ 12.46
1 Stinger S4GBS Barrier Spade 4AWG $ 4.84 $ 4.84
3 Sound Quest By Stinger FT12S 10/12 Ga. Crimp Barrier Spade $ 1.31 $ 3.93
3 Stinger SHX17 Helix Series Car Audio RCA Cable 17' $16.99 $ 50.97
1 Sound Quest AWPFHS Water Resistant 4/0 Ga. ANL Fuseholder $17.33 $ 17.33
1 Stinger GANL250 Anl Style Gold Plated Fuse 250A Car Audio $ 9.99 $ 9.99
6 Stinger SSW12BLK PRO Series Car Audio Black 12AWG Wire $ 1.69 $ 10.14
2 STINGER PG34 PRO GROMMET 1/0AWG 1" HOLE $ 4.92 $ 9.84
1 STINGER PG12 PRO GROMMET 4AWG WATERPROOF 7/8" HOLE $ 3.62 $ 3.62
1 Audio Enhancers KL12D Sub Box Kicker L Series Dual 12 Inch $85.00 $ 85.00
4 Sound Quest By Stinger MPR1S 1/0 Ga. Pro Ring Terminal $ 2.98 $ 11.92
2 Stinger SGT4N Dual Foot Grounding Terminal 4AWG $ 5.53 $ 11.06
2 Sound Quest PAC104S 1/0 Ga. to 4 Ga. Power Wire Reducer $ 2.91 $ 5.82
1 Sound Quest BTNS Pro Style Battery Terminal-Negative $ 4.16 $ 4.16
1 Sound Quest BTPS Pro Style Battery Terminal-Positive $ 4.16 $ 4.16
1 Stinger SCOUP4 Coupler 4AWG $ 3.30 $ 3.30
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal: $370.34
Shipping: $ 68.68
Total: $439.02


I'm going to wire it for 175W x 4 for the mids & highs and 1200W x 1 for the subs. Good stuff...

Oh, and I'm gonna put the alarm IN this time.

DustyJL

0 gauge wire for 2.55!!!! That is cheap. I payed 4.50 for mine.

PhLaXuS

OK...I picked up the two amps and the cap from DHL yesterday. The birth sheets state 1490W for the KX1200.1 and 920W for the KX850.4...The subs & interconnects are coming in tomorrow. The box will probably be next Wednesday or so...I don't even have a tracking # yet.

ScrapMaker

wow, that is a powerfull four channel! at 2 ohms, I assume?

what occasion was the bonus, if you don't mind?

maybe because the stereo was stolen? that would kick ***!

920w seems like overkill for any speakers I can think of....

230wrms per channel... most audiophile component sets want about 100-150wrms....

sounds like you're going to have one hell of a setup, although many people aren't a fan of the square subs... I personally think they're better on the sole factor of the ease of installation... I was born to cut a square hole, damnit!

(the hole is square, right?)

oh, and what components are you putting in? do tell, do tell!

PhLaXuS

The only things left from my 'audio jack' were the four speakers installed throughout the car and some 4 gauge supply line. I've currently got a pair of 5-1/2" Sonys in the dash and a set of Pioneer 5x7's behind the sail panels. The current speakers are rather low-key and I'll do better in the next few months. These two pairs were left over from an install in a former car of mine & I moved them over a year ago. I had to do quite a bit of notching to get the 5-1/2's in the dash and I made a steel adapter plate to fit the 5x7's into the 6x9 hole. I'll probably go for a set or two of Infinity's when I have more to spend.

The KX1200.1 is rated 1200W x 1 @ 1 Ohm. I purchased a pair of 12" Solo-Baric L7 4 Ohm DVC Subs. I'm going to wire the subs for 1 ohm operation.

The KX850.4 is rated 215W x 4 @ 2 Ohm. The only decent setup that I can put together with the current speakers are 175W x 4 @ 4 Ohms.

I'm running the entire setup off of a JVC KD-LH810 head.

Here's a pic of the two amps with a CD-R to show relative size. The amp on the top is the 1200 and the one of the bottom is the 850.

As far as the bonus...I don't make very much for the work I do. My company just got a decent chunk of AR in and I was cut a check because I've been around almost from the beginning. This is the second bonus this year so even though I don't make a lot, it feels pretty good.

I see that you have a Viper 790XV. I'm currently searching for a good alarm to protect this setup. Does the 790XV have these features:
·2-Way paging
·Ability to monitor at least both doors, rear hatch & vibration
·Starter Kill
·Must lock doors and roll up windows when armed
·Unlock doors when disarmed

I was looking at a 791XV, but I don't know about some of these features. I'm also going to perform my own special brand of security that will pretty much prevent anyone from getting too far away with my new system should they decide to rip me off again. There is a serial theif running all around my neighborhood hitting a LOT of people. They'll nab a lot of gear, wait a year or so and then do it again. I'd like to see them try to hit me again.

92Three50Z28

Very nice! I love kicker but decided to redo my factory system in all Alpine including a new head unit. Its great to have a kicken system in your Zzz.

ScrapMaker

I've never heard of an alarm that can roll up the windows (out of the box.)

you have to get the module in my signature, or something that works the same way...

my windows roll up when I arm my alarm, unless certain actions are taken before-hand.

expect $550 for the alarm, and install, and about another $200 for the the window module, including installation.

I got my module off ebay for $45... and installed it myself... I couldn't get it to work quite right, but it turns out my alarm is faulty! I have bad luck, damnit! Anyways, I paid circuit city to install that module, and they warrant the install on everything they do for life. If my alarm, or the window module go bad, they will remove it, and retain factory functionality until the replacment part comes back. (They said they would even send off my window module for me, even though I didn't buy it from them.)

That being said, if my alarm had been working properly, I wouldn't have had to pay them to install it... it's REALLY straight-forward... just get the wiring-diagrams of this site... I got them from Mr. Dude, but he got them from Trickster, I believe.

Pull the shift ****, disconnect the cigarette lighter wires, along with the indicator bulb. Next use a screwdriver and pop out the window switches... 6 or so bolts, then the console comes out... plenty of space to work with too...

PhLaXuS

Ahhh...thankee!

PhLaXuS

Yeeeeaaaahhhh...

Picked up the subs from the DHL office today. Now all I'm waiting on is the box and I still have to purchase the alarm before installing the system. I'll run all the wires as soon as I can so that I can simply plug everything in after the alarm.

PhLaXuS

ARG! Still don't have the enclosure. I'm waiting on a good reason from the distributor as well. I'm close to demanding a refund, but this box looks very nice. I want it. Turns out I'm going to order 10 gauge red & black for the sub wiring because no one carries any locally. The alarm should be in tomorrow night. I'll snake all the wires through the car & install the alarm tomorrow and HOPEFULLY will have the box by next weekend.

justlearning

let me know how it sounds cause im getting the same subs and will be running them off my mtx 81000 d ive got a lil more than half saved for them so i should have them in 2-4 weeks.

fishboy

Hey, no offence....but why on Earth did you choose L7s? THey sound like A$$ and their reliability ranks among the worse of ANY subwoofer. I love kicker CVRs and they make great amps, but ALL the square subs are terrible terrible buys. You coulda went with some DD 9900, or RE MT series, MTX JackHammer, Eclips Ti Pro, or prob best for the price RE SX series

ScrapMaker

eh, that's kinda offensive... there's no point in telling him his stuff sucks, since he already purchased them.

beforehand is a different story..

afterwards... just keep it to yourself.

9177

I'm sure you've taken the time to demo these all yourself right. Sugesting these subs for an Fbody shows you know little to nothing about the products you pusing and the products your bashing. 3 of the products you mentioned won't even fit in the car with a box, one I don't think is even made anymore. But im sure in your infinite knowledge you have had all of these in your car at one point or another and can tell use how you fut them in the back of the car. Instalation is 95% of the outcome for the sound.

ScrapMaker

I agree... since sometimes a single 8" subwoofer can put out more deep, rumbling bass than two 15"s... depends on the box, the configuration, the sound deadening, and the characteristics of the actual subwoofer.

PhLaXuS

My preference has always been sealed boxes backed by a decent amount of power. As pointed out earlier, MANY things can make a system sound like crap. Even a shallow crossover slope alone can do it. If you try to crossover a sub at 6db/octave, it's not going to sound so great. The individual music plays a big part as well.

ScrapMaker

hey PhLaXuS... the quote in your sig...

I guess Katrina proved that wrong...

PhLaXuS

yep...maybe. I don't know if you've read the article the link points to, but it's about how Montana repealed speed limits a few years back and it increased highway safety.

ScrapMaker

Well, it's been proven many times that higher speed limits make the roads safer. People don't tailgate as much.

The only two things that make my trip unsafe every week from Austin to Waco, is the fact that 1) I'm always on the lookout for a cop radaring/lasering, even though I have the top-of-the-line Detector, (because of instant on radar/laser,) and the second is when jerks get in the fast lane and go exactly the speed limit. That sucks when I'm going 90 and some idiot pulls in at 55, to pass someone going 54 in the slow lane. The worst part is that no one seems to check behind them before they change lanes... I always look to determine the speed of the car in the fast lane before I switch, and if I have plenty of time to do what I need to do before they catch up, then fine. If not, I just wait until they pass... It's a novel idea, but almost no one does it. Makes me wish I had a 200db jet engine-propelled airhorn underneath the hood... man that would rock.

PhLaXuS

hehe...200db. IIRC, 180db can cause heart problems.

justlearning

so u guys wouldnt recomend i get the l7s then and run them on my mtx 81000 d amp at 1 ohm....ive heard one person before say that they dont have a good desinged voice coil and are prone to problems....but when i started a thread a few days ago asking about the quality i got no bad responses although i did only get three responses....i had three mtx 8000s 12s and the amp was only turned a part of the way up about 1/4 and the surround actually pulled away from the case in many places...but that was partially my fault the subs had seen a rougher competion life before purchase and i ran them in a box w/ out its own chambers so i think thats what caused it i know it was dumb on my part.

ScrapMaker

I don't know how to compare your mtxs to his l7s, but if you got a 12" l7, there'd be more physical surface area on the cone, if that helps.

justlearning

yeah ive heard the speakers before on a smaller amp than what i have and they can really push but im just worried if they are constructed poorly and will burn up in a years time knowing my luck as soon as my warantee runs out.

1meanGTA

l7's get good and loud, they just dont have the best sound quality. i have heard of more than a couple of them failing from people running them too hard. which any speaker will do, but apparently these dont take as much punishment as similarly priced subs.

that said, i really, really miss the old round kicker solobarics. those were bad as hell.

PhLaXuS

A well sealed box will help. When I get a new enclosure, I typically take 2 - 3 days filling in the terminal cups with epoxy, cutting the carpet from around the sub gasket and generally making certain that it's air-tight. That goes a long way to better SQ and reliability. Also, try your best to stay away from a box which is a perfect cube -- lots of standing waves/cancellation inside the box. The best shape is probably a box with with three of its sides divisible by 1, 2 & 3.

These types of safeguards/practices become more important as the power goes up.

And yeah, I began my love affair with the round solo-barics.

1meanGTA

the only l7 12's i've heard were in a ported box, i dont know the specs, but it was loud. from what i've read in forums, from lots of people who own them or have owned them, going sealed really wastes the potential of these speakers to get loud as they can, and the sq still isnt great. i can't say for sure though, as i've never heard them sealed, or in an f-body. (porting isnt a very easy option in our cars, i almost tried it)

btw i just put in round solobaric on ebay and found a few 10's for 75 a piece, i think 20 shipping. could probably port 2 10's in an f-body
those old solos used super small enclosures too

ScrapMaker

I like my friends CVR15's

The Kicker VR Comp 15's, that is... they hit harder than my PPI stuff, but sound a LOT sloppier... I think that's the basical trade-off...

longer, looser surround/suspension, harder the sub can hit.

tighter, smaller surround/suspension, hit's less hard, but much more accurate.

justlearning

yeah my box is in the well of the camaro taken all the space i can estimated at around 3 cubic feet not including subtracting what the sub will displace....when i get the subs i will again seal the box and make sure no leaks and ill also have to make a new lid and center divider the only way i know of to measure the box is to get a 12x12x12 box and fill it w/ packing peanuts and fill it as many times as i can then take that and divide it in half and fill it again w/ a center divider cut out and compact it till it comes to the top and tack the divider in and check the other side and adjust as needed...doin the math would almost be impossible for me due to the diff. angles and such lol i wasnt to attentive in geometry and box isnt equally cut peice on each side where wheel wells are as u know. thanks guys i guess ill still get these cause i have heard them in a sealed box around the same cubes and sq wasnt to much diff. from the old 8000s i had so if know one has any major reasons i shouldnt purchase these please speak up cause two weeks from today i will have the cash ready!! thanks fellas

1meanGTA

not necessarily, a lot of it has to do with the design of the motor. my rl-ps dont have a massive surround, but pretty fat. quite a lot bigger than the cvr's. the excursion is almost 25mm. and this aint the first time i've said it, probably not the last, these things are super tight and accurate. stuff like korn just sounds incredible on them.

ScrapMaker

why does everyone think they need a center divider... you most definitely do not.

if the box comes without one, there is absolutely no reason to put one in there.

1meanGTA

its not hard at all. measure you box. multiple height by width by length. (in inches)
divide that by 1728 to get cubic feet

so if you have a 10x12x18 inch square box you get 2160 cubic inches. divide by 1728 to get 1.25 cubic feet.

to do angles, measure the box up to where the angle starts as one part. then pretend the angled piece is square. do the formula as though it was square, then divide by 2.

so if you had the same box, that was 10 inches tall, 12 inches long and 18 inches wide, at the top, but at the bottom it came out 3 inches farther for the angle, you would first do the formula as though there was no angled section. then you take 10 inches tall x 18 inches wide x 3 inches, which is how far it comes out from the square section at the bottom. you get 540 from this, divide by 2, 270, then divide by 1728 get .15625. add to 1.25, your box is 1.40625 cubic feet.

1meanGTA

and yeah, no need for separate chambers.

PhLaXuS

I still stand by an assessment i made a few years ago that metal (and I mean from the present and back a decade or so) is the most difficult type of music to design a system for. I listen to everything from Korn to Fiona Apple; Dido to Ying Yang Twins; 50 Cent to Cake and just about everything in between. The only thing on my "blacklist" is country & boy-bands. It's not the easiest thing in the world to design a system to work with all these types fo music. For this variety, sealed and with a lot of power is the only way to go. If I only listened to hip-hop, then I'd probably go ported.

1meanGTA

yes but the speakers also make a big difference. what i meant was that the l7's are pretty much tailor made for being played in ported boxes, playing rap music loud. quick tight bass is not their strong point, no matter what box they're in.

justlearning

r u guys sure about the no divider thing and i made the box myself just didnt put a divider in it....wont the subs fight for air especially where the box is shapped diff. on both sides??

1meanGTA

no, thats the way my box is. more of the airspace is on the drivers side.

1meanGTA

just make sure you seal it up well, and dont rush through building it, i spent a couple weeks doing mine because i wanted a perfect fit.

justlearning

oh its already built ill just have to make a new top for these subs....as long as u guys r sure that they arent prone to problems w/ quality build and i dont need a divider ill get them and say hell w/ a divider

1meanGTA

well do you mostly listen to rap? you can do better than the l7's for the price, i spent 5 bucks more on my rl-ps. how much airspace is in your box?

justlearning

about 3 cubic feet w/ out the sub in there....but im getting the subs for like 169 a piece from etronics

justlearning

yeah and i listen to mostly rap but i do listen to some rock too just not near as much id say 1/10 rock 9/10 rap

fishboy

Id first like to apologizeor those ridiculous suggestions, Im used to making SPL suggestions to the general crowd, that Jackhammmer is a little over-the-top for about anyone. About whether sealed or ported, sealed will generally provide more accurate bass response but the sub will perfom best based on its T/S parameter "Qts" (or total system dampening) if the Qts is below .5 ported will give the sub better performance, higher than .5- sealed, and if it above somn like .72 (im not sure on that one) single reflex bandpass. But as mentioned previously, ported may simply be too difficult on a 3rd gen

fishboy

And btw, 1meanGTA, your car sounds sick!

1meanGTA

thanks, it'll be a lot more sick once i get the stealth ram and get prom burning down pat. appreciate the compliment

i'll try and get some pics up in the next week or two, i have some but they're from december, before the car had the ss wheels and system in. have a few extra smoky burnout pics but i dont know how to post them, can someone show me?

ScrapMaker

You don't need a divider in any box, as long as you're playing your subs in mono. If you're playing your woofers in stereo, you don't know what you're doing anyways. Rip all your wiring out and start over.

The air in the box will compress as the woofers move, it just goes wherever it wants, doesn't matter, the box could be shaped like a maze... doesn't matter as much as you think. Just the overall "ease of compression," meaning pretty much the amount of air available in the box.

justlearning

okay thats fine i guess no divider then i just thought if one somehow faught for air more or was more powerful for what ever reason (wire connection strenth or anything) that it would hit normal extending and the other would kinda suck in cause it wasnt as powerful if that makes since....only reason i say that is cause ive seen someone subs do this and it didnt look healthy for them i checked his wiring and it was hooked up right on outside of box (not quite sure on inside i didnt check)

1meanGTA

lol one was probably hooked up backwards, and no that isnt good for them.

ScrapMaker

If you hook it up in stereo, you will see one move at different times from the other... sometimes cancelling each other out... which is why only lazy car audio shops hook up amps in stereo, (for subwoofers.)

A shop in Austin hooked up my brother's memphis 2ch up to his two 10" memphis subs, in stereo... what a waste... he bought the whole setup from them and it really pissed me off. I think they sold him stuff to where the amp won't run his speakers in mono, due to the ohm load... idiots.

justlearning

well i wont have that problem my amp the mtx 81000 d wont run in stereo it has two sets of speaker terminals but if u open up the amp its really only one terminal but split up so u can use larger wire. but i shouldnt have a problem w/ ohm load either my friend ran this amp at less than 1 ohm and i think when i hook it up it should be right at 1 ohm stable as long as the l7s can handel it if they cant then i will have to run them in series.

ScrapMaker

yeah, most mono amps have two speaker terminals... just to make it easier to wire it up.