hello.. i was looking into amps and subs for a new sound system, and came across pyle audio.. are they any good? i see pyle on ebay a lot and all the sellers get the dealer prices so they are pretty cheap. also is it better to have a ported sub box or non ported? i dont got too much money but if it means good quality i cna throw down some dough.. any help would be great

 

pyle's ok you pay 4 what you get. they sound better than blown out stock as far as componant speakers go. i had a pair of there 6x9 i was trying to blow i put a 1200 watt amp on they lasted 3 weeks before it melted the voice coils. their tough but don't sound the best. but for 30 bucks what the heck. but rember you can buy a pair of pioneer 6x9s for 100 and there way better. i had the PLG69.3 6"x9" Triaxial Speakers.

i buy all my sub box building stuff from this place good prices a+ custumer service
http://www.partsexpress.com/index.cfm

 

You can only expect so much from cheap crap, so I suppose in that sense they are worth the money, but they're still cheap crap.

 

i have basically picked out the subs i want... i am confused on how amp wattage works... can anyone tell me what i want to look for to power a 1000w rms 3000w peak sub with 4 ohms? what do i look for in terms of wattage of the amp. an amp i found says 2000w peak but then it says 200w x2 channels? got me confused...

also are pyle amps any good?

 

go here look on the 3rd page down its this explains ohms and how to hook up speakers
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...a_T9512-04.pdf
make sure what you got will handle the rms mtx has alot of info on there site lok around on there go to support then manuals
http://www.mtx.com/index2.cfm

 

Pyle is garbage, I didn't even realize they were still in business. Like it was said earlier, it's cheap crap.

Never look at peak ratings on an amp, those mean nothing. Peak means that the amp was able to reach that rating, but they failed to mention that it was 100% distortion and they amp also caught fire in the process.

Always look at the RMS ratings.

 

lanzar any good?

 

Not anymore.

For that matter, nothing in that price range is any good, unless it's rated at 5 watts. You can search forever through the scores of "inexpensive" subs and amps, and all you're going to find is garbage.

You need to look at stuff like Kicker, Rockford, or similar for amps. There are a lot of good amps, many in the price range that you're looking, but none of them will be rated for 2,000 watts. They might be rated at 50, or a hundred, or maybe 200 total watts. In reality, a 200 watt amp from a good manufacturer will put out a lot of good, solid power.

In the price range you're looking at for subs, same thing. Forget about crap that's rated at a million watts and has a surround that's half the size of the cone. Look for a good, normal sub with a realistic power rating. A JL W0 comes to mind. A good quality sub, with realistic power numbers, and realistic excursion. There's no need for a super high-excursion sub that has terrible efficiency when you're driving it with a modest amp. You'll get better sound and more output from a "conventional" sub, even putting quality issues aside.

 

I was about to say the same thing Jim, JL probably has one of the best subs out there but I was going to mention the W7 or the Boston G510s, stereo equipment is just like everything else, you pay for what you get. The JL slash series amps (300/2, 300/4, 500/1) are expensive such as their or Boston subs but you can't get any better. Just like head units, you can buy the Sony, Kenwood, but Alpine is still probably the best one out there.

 

the name says it all, pyle.

 

This comment by strawberry hits the nail on the head. they are tough and hard to kill, but really sound like ***. I would not be suprised some stock speakers sound better. the company put more money in power handling than sound quality. If you like using a stock system with the bass and treble maxed and hearing no distortion, then get these. If you are building a system with almost no money and using pieced together audio components, then get these. If you care about sound quality and something that will sound good for the next 20 years, then pyle is a hasty and often non-recommended decision.

 

Pyle is...well at the bottom of the pile (pun inteneded)

If you want a good inexpensive speaker go with Pioneer. If you want better than look at JL, Boston and go from there.

As for amps (Jim85) is on the money. Kicker and Rockford make a good product. Don't be lured by big output numbers. Usually these amps are cheap and will distort (badly).

My 14 years old 6 channel (Soundstream) is sstill going strong and will go up against almost anything today.

 

Read this thread. Pretty much covers it:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...rst-brand.html

 

Pyle, Lanzar, etc are all bottom of the barrel car audio. If you are putting together a super budget system, they will work. If you plan on building a nice system though, save your $$$ and buy some real speakers.

 

Honestly, and I mean this is 100% true, I bought some Pyramid speakers to put in a car that I was selling... they sounded WORSE than the stock stuff and I took them back out! This was a Corolla... 4" front and rear... the stock paper cone crap sounded BETTER!

 

pyle..(of crap) I bought some of that junk many years ago. That and pyramid. They suck. Always sounded distorted, and never lasted more than a month. I've been banging the hell out of my MTX subs for 10+ years now, they've been in at least 5 different boxes and about 8 vehicles.

 

Pyle used to be decent...like 15-20 years ago. Pyle Driver!

Wooo!

For subs, go with Kicker, MTX or JL Audio. The latter makes the best subs.

But yeah, for your regular speakers, Pioneer is excellent for the money. I have those in my car (plus a 10" MTX Sub and a 1000W Kenwood Amp) and it sounds wonderful.

 

i have an all kenwood system in my 84z all original locations and two 12" 1500watt kenwood subs and it sounds pretty damn good the kenwood amps are a really good choice