good replacement
good replacement
Ok, I am trying to reach my power goal so it sucks up all my money. I need 6x9s and I ave an Alpine CD Head unit. I would like to know what kind of cheap system I can get with 2 subwoofers, self made enclosure. What amp and subs do you recomend.
My computer froze the first time I was responding, so here's the second go...To determine what kind of subs and amp you want, you need to ask yourself what you're looking for. How loud do you want to go, and what kind of music will you be listening to? If you're looking for a cheap system and are more concerned about performance, I would recomend a single 10 or 12. A single sub would be lighter, and would allow more money for performance goodies. A 10 would be more accurate/tighter, while a 12 will allow lower hits and higher SPL due to the increased cone area. I currently have a single sealed 12 with only about 200 RMS behind, and it will get respectably loud, while still being pretty punchy. And it will visably vibrate/move my seats and dash pad/stering wheel at some frequencies. You also have some options for your enclosure. Ported offers about a 3 db advantage over sealed, but may sound 'boomy' at certain frequencies (response curve not as flat as sealed), and has a faster drop off after the F3 (probably trivial for your application though), and requires a bigger box. If you're building it yourself, however, I would recomend a sealed enclosure. Sealed provides a tighter bass, even though the SPL may not be as much. Sealed enclosures are easier to build, and there is more room for error. If you've got to have mad SPL, however, you may want to go with dual 12's, like I plan to eventually go to. A single sub with ample power will provide ample bass for most music, however. For an amplifier, again assuming you're not looking for a massivly loud system, I would look for a nice 4 channel amp. Run your fronts with 2 of the channels, and bridge the other 2 channels for the sub (sail panels off of deck). Then, if you want to upgrade later, you can use the 4 channel on all your corner speakers, and get a dedicated sub amp. Something around 200 REAL watts RMS will move a single 12 just fine, again assuming you're just looking for a nice low end, not an SPL champion. Just don't cheap out on your amp (expect to pay about $200-300 for a good middle-of-the-road amp), and dont cut corners on your install. Oh and if you're not going to run alot of power to your sub, look for a high sensitivity/efficiency sub. Mine's 92db I believe.
- Mike
- Mike
I mostly listen to the older Metalica, there are so many subs and amps and stuff out there it is mind boggaling. What make/model sub/amp are you running? The car is already wired for the system(guy before me) and it should be an easly install, looks like he did the system install in a quality manner(unlike the rest of the car)...anyway, what do you thin would be best for me? I want to go with a dual setup( I like stuff to look symetrical
) just no sure what buy.
) just no sure what buy. Currently I am running a single sealed Premier 12" (nickle coated cone) and an Aura MR675H amp. My amp puts out about 50 x 6 at 12.5 volts. I have each corner speaker hooked up to one channel, and the last two channels bridged on the sub. My sail panel 6x9's are turned off (blown), and my dash 4x6's are pretty, well, messed up also. I'm going to soon replace the front with 6.5 seperates in kicks and something like 6.5 coaxails in the sails, probably from CDT Audio. As far as subs, if you're listening to mostly metal, you really don't need two subs. When I let my friend listen to my current 'system' (he's a big Metallica fan, I think we played 'Fade To Black' or something else off Ride The Lightning) with blown speakers and all, and he couldn't help but do air-guitar...he was completly absorbed. Afterwards he exclaimed, "When I get a car, I'm doing this!" If you're listening to rock/metal, I would definatly go with sealed for the tightness. Bass drums really hit you in the cheast. And your install doesn't really have to be symmetrical to look good. After all, there's only one steering wheel in your car, but it looks pretty good doesn't it?
I have the sub mounted in the little well on the left, with the over 2-foot amp to the right of it. And when I built the box, since I am currently only using one sub, I was able to make the entire box a few inches below the flush line, so the t-top bag strap goes right over top of the install, and can be used normally. And since the box extends under the amp, I was able to get 1.1 cubic foot. As far as what sub(s) and amp to buy, you really need to try and find a shop to go and listen to various stuff. I am very satisfied with my Premier 12 (it's quite a step up from the regular Pioneer). Some people are amazed at the output I get from it...One friend described it as "huge". He said it was almost as loud as four Kenwoods he heard in a Mustang. It's all about install however, and amplifier power, so the Premier is not necessarily a 'better' sub then the Kenwoods he was refering to. I build my entire box out of 3/4" MDF with wood glue and liquid nails, with big screws every few inches (pre-drilled and counter-sunk). The box is very solid. And there are only two internal parallel planes (top and bottom), so there is a minimum of internal resonance. If your system is already wired, how big is your power/ground wire? That is a big determinant of how much power you can go with. I ran 4 awg when I installed my system. Are you interested in amping your corner speakers, or just your sub? Thats one thing my friend listening to Metallica really liked when listening to my current 'system', that the bass wasn't overpowering since all my speakers are all amped. My front speakers are starting to get really weak now though...probably from only having a 12 db/octave high pass on the little 4x6's...they still 'spit' after cranking it. That will all change soon though with my seperates.
I really don't know what sub and amp to tell you to get, there's alot of good stuff out there. But there's alot of crap too. I wanted to go with somehting that is somewhat unique, that isn't in every other car, that's why I went with Premier and Aura (and probably CDT for my corners). The best thing you can do is go listen to stuff at a shop. Different sizes, number of drivers, amp power, etc. And remember that once that is loaded into your car, the bass will have alot more presance. How much are you looking to spend on your sub(s) and amp? That would help alot to determine what would be best for you. Obviously if you swapped a 6 speed into your thirdgen you're concerned about performance though, so that's probably the expense priority. However, I've found that if you cheap out on your system, you will becomd dissatisfied with it, and will later just want to upgrade. Use quailty stuff the first time. Did you have any brands in mind? Actually, if your looking for a cheap amp, if you search for "aura amplifier" on ebay, there's two such amps. The MR475Q (4 channel version of what I have, 50 x 4 RMS @ 12.5 V), and the MR675Q (what I have, 50 x 6 RMS @ 12.5 V). These amps actually put out their rated power, if not a little more, and in my opinion look very sleek. They're hard to find now though (company got bought out I believe, that's why they're so cheap...they're not cheap quality though). Mike Harvey was also running Aura amps on his subs, and was getting some crazy numbers off of them. I don't think you'd be able to beat the power/price ratio on those Aura amps on ebay right now, but they were display model's I think, so I don't know of you're weary about stuff like that or not. A quick think you can look for on an amp is the fuse rating. If you see a "1000" watt amp with a 20 amp fuse, dont even bother. My amp has 2 40 amp fuses. And since audio waves are AC, there is an RMS power and a MAX or PEAK power. Look at the RMS power, thats what matters. The others are pretty much useless. In the manual for my amp, it doesn't even give anything besides continous RMS. Also look at what ohmage the amp makes the power. If you use an amp that's designed to run best at 1 ohm on your 4 ohm speakers, you're not going to get the full potential. Anyways, I better stop writing, this is getting pretty long. Just trying to share what I've learned while once trying to find what I wanted. Let me know how much you're looking to spend, and if you have any brands in mind. And try to go to a shop and listen to some good stuff for yourself. Thats the best thing you can do.
- Mike
[This message has been edited by Mike92RS (edited May 23, 2001).]
I have the sub mounted in the little well on the left, with the over 2-foot amp to the right of it. And when I built the box, since I am currently only using one sub, I was able to make the entire box a few inches below the flush line, so the t-top bag strap goes right over top of the install, and can be used normally. And since the box extends under the amp, I was able to get 1.1 cubic foot. As far as what sub(s) and amp to buy, you really need to try and find a shop to go and listen to various stuff. I am very satisfied with my Premier 12 (it's quite a step up from the regular Pioneer). Some people are amazed at the output I get from it...One friend described it as "huge". He said it was almost as loud as four Kenwoods he heard in a Mustang. It's all about install however, and amplifier power, so the Premier is not necessarily a 'better' sub then the Kenwoods he was refering to. I build my entire box out of 3/4" MDF with wood glue and liquid nails, with big screws every few inches (pre-drilled and counter-sunk). The box is very solid. And there are only two internal parallel planes (top and bottom), so there is a minimum of internal resonance. If your system is already wired, how big is your power/ground wire? That is a big determinant of how much power you can go with. I ran 4 awg when I installed my system. Are you interested in amping your corner speakers, or just your sub? Thats one thing my friend listening to Metallica really liked when listening to my current 'system', that the bass wasn't overpowering since all my speakers are all amped. My front speakers are starting to get really weak now though...probably from only having a 12 db/octave high pass on the little 4x6's...they still 'spit' after cranking it. That will all change soon though with my seperates.
I really don't know what sub and amp to tell you to get, there's alot of good stuff out there. But there's alot of crap too. I wanted to go with somehting that is somewhat unique, that isn't in every other car, that's why I went with Premier and Aura (and probably CDT for my corners). The best thing you can do is go listen to stuff at a shop. Different sizes, number of drivers, amp power, etc. And remember that once that is loaded into your car, the bass will have alot more presance. How much are you looking to spend on your sub(s) and amp? That would help alot to determine what would be best for you. Obviously if you swapped a 6 speed into your thirdgen you're concerned about performance though, so that's probably the expense priority. However, I've found that if you cheap out on your system, you will becomd dissatisfied with it, and will later just want to upgrade. Use quailty stuff the first time. Did you have any brands in mind? Actually, if your looking for a cheap amp, if you search for "aura amplifier" on ebay, there's two such amps. The MR475Q (4 channel version of what I have, 50 x 4 RMS @ 12.5 V), and the MR675Q (what I have, 50 x 6 RMS @ 12.5 V). These amps actually put out their rated power, if not a little more, and in my opinion look very sleek. They're hard to find now though (company got bought out I believe, that's why they're so cheap...they're not cheap quality though). Mike Harvey was also running Aura amps on his subs, and was getting some crazy numbers off of them. I don't think you'd be able to beat the power/price ratio on those Aura amps on ebay right now, but they were display model's I think, so I don't know of you're weary about stuff like that or not. A quick think you can look for on an amp is the fuse rating. If you see a "1000" watt amp with a 20 amp fuse, dont even bother. My amp has 2 40 amp fuses. And since audio waves are AC, there is an RMS power and a MAX or PEAK power. Look at the RMS power, thats what matters. The others are pretty much useless. In the manual for my amp, it doesn't even give anything besides continous RMS. Also look at what ohmage the amp makes the power. If you use an amp that's designed to run best at 1 ohm on your 4 ohm speakers, you're not going to get the full potential. Anyways, I better stop writing, this is getting pretty long. Just trying to share what I've learned while once trying to find what I wanted. Let me know how much you're looking to spend, and if you have any brands in mind. And try to go to a shop and listen to some good stuff for yourself. Thats the best thing you can do.- Mike
[This message has been edited by Mike92RS (edited May 23, 2001).]
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